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My search for the ultimate “secret” sandwich began after I overheard a conversation between two men at a bus stop in my neighborhood.
“I always hit up the back of Tony's Market on 24th – new stuff every day,” the first guy divulged.
“Nah man, you gotta go to this one liquor store on Folsom,” his friend countered. “That’s where you get the goods.”
I assumed they were chatting about drugs, or maybe prostitutes, but after a few more seconds of eavesdropping I realized they were discussing something way more clandestine: the liquor store sandwich. And I needed to know more.
I’m a firm believer that food tastes best when eaten in establishments where the quality of the ambiance is inversely proportional to the deliciousness of the meal. Drop a cliché phrase like “hole-in-the-wall” or “off the beaten path” when telling me about your go-to restaurant and I’ll be there before you even tell me what kind of food is served. Extra props if there’s no sign on the door.
I think we can all agree that the sandwich is one of the most beautifully constructed creations on this earth – it’s portable, comes in endless varieties, and almost always incorporates my two favorite ingredients, bread and cheese.
After the debate at the bus stop, I couldn’t imagine anything better than finding a hidden source for my choice meal in my hood (nothing’s more quintessentially San Franciscan than bragging about your favorite local find, of course). So I set out to find the Mission’s best liquor store sandwich shops.
Corner store sandwich-makers belong to two different schools of thought. Some capitalize on the whole “Come eat artisan, locally sourced sandwiches right next to our stock of chewing gum and 40s” charm. The others are actually old-school: They’ve been serving simple, hearty fare to the neighborhood for years, and will stare you down if you ask how to follow them on Twitter.
I began my hunt at Rhea's Deli & Market, which definitely falls in the gourmand-meets-grocery-store camp. I’d always wondered why there was a constant queue of hipsters snaking out of the liquor store on the corner of 19th and Valencia – maybe Rhea’s held the city’s last remaining supply of Four Loko? But after sampling the extensive variety of extremely awesome sandwiches, it all made sense.
I had a hard time choosing what to order, since Rhea’s creative offerings include, for example, just-spicy-enough vegetarian BBQ “chicken,” tuna with Moroccan capers, and Korean steak tacos. Most of its sandwiches are served on gourmet bread (Acme, Tartine), slathered with homemade aoli or vinaigrette and topped with house-pickled onions and jalapeños.
I finally chose the classic Valencia Street ($7.95) – Boar's Head turkey, Havarti, bacon, avocado, baby arugula, champagne vinegar, pickled red onions, pickles, tomatoes, garlic aioli, and country Dijon mustard served on an Acme organic sweet roll – and decided to take advantage of the sunshine in nearby Dolores Park instead of eating at Rhea’s counter. My sandwich was bliss: crunchy, creamy, tangy, and sweet. I didn’t even mind that I had to wait 30 minutes to eat it. (Note: Bypass the crowds by calling ahead or taking advantage of Rhea’s free delivery service!)
A few days later, I walked southeast to Pal's Take Away, which is
nestled in the back of Tony's Market on the corner of 24th and Hampshire. Pal’s offers only a few different types of sandwiches and lacks the bustle (and relative fame) of Rhea’s, but the shop is even more of an adventurous epicurean’s dream. The menu (which usually consists of three sandwiches, a side or two, and dessert) changes daily, depending on seasonal and local offerings. Its website boasts an impressive list of farms that Pal’s buys from.
Pal's sandwiches (all priced around $8) may sound overwhelmingly ambitious: Ever heard of a “Cheddar-jalapeño meatball sandwich on an Acme torpedo with lime-BBQ sauce, radishes, Riverdog Farm arugula, and avocado mayo”? All the combos I sampled – including a shrimp “salad” on an Acme torpedo with avocado, spicy nori strips, wasabi chips, daikon sprouts, and spring garlic mayo – made even my typically-mayo-hating self want to lick the wrapper for crumbs.
In person, Pal seems like your run-of-the-mill, friendly mom-and-pop-shop kind of guy. But he’s clearly quite the character, judging by his cheeky (and highly entertaining) use of social media. His website doesn’t just showcase daily specials. It includes songs of the day and fictional testimonials from celebrities ("I'm gonna put a tasty Pal's sandwich under everyone's seat ... and three under mine!" – Oprah Winfrey). If you follow him on Twitter, expect guest-chef announcements (most recently: Carlo from Comstock) and proclamations like, “PAL'S: ALWAYS VIGILANT IN THE SEARCH TO FIND SOME MORE GOOD F**KIN STUFF TO PUT BETWEEN TWO PIECES OF BREAD FOR YOU ALL!!!!”
There are a few tiny tables and chairs in the corner of Tony's Market, but I recommend going across the street to Dynamo Donuts, where you can get some coffee, a donut, and an outdoor patio to go with your lunch.
I love my artisan aoli and Acme rolls, but it was time to check out some seriously under-the-radar spots. Roxie's Food Center slightly stretched my “local” rule – I had to take the bus down San Jose Avenue to get to the Mission Terrace location – but it didn’t disappoint. I went during its chaotic lunch rush, which meant I had to wait in a very narrow line, “sandwiched” (see what I did there?) between bags of chips and stacks of candy bars. I finally reached the counter and had only a few seconds to bark out my order. I made friends with the guy in front of me who said he’d been coming to Roxie’s for years and insisted I get the “Roxie's Special” (mortadella, ham, salami, artichoke hearts, and jalapeño – $7.99 for a “regular” sized sandwich). “You’ve got to get it toasted on Dutch Crunch, or else you’re an idiot,” he added. Okay then.
The customer service wasn’t exactly up to par with Rhea's and Pal's – at one point I mistakenly grabbed someone else’s paper bag and the server said, “Yo, relax that’s not yours.” But it was all part of the experience. It was raining and there was definitely no place to sit inside the liquor store, so I took my gigantic paper-wrapped parcel (seriously huge – and I didn’t even order the largest size!) to Glen Park Station, the nearest dive bar I could find.
My sandwich warmed up my entire body more than any cup of soup or mug of tea ever has. The flavors melted seamlessly into one perfect blend of toasty carbs and crunch. Roxie’s sandwiches may be unassuming, but they pack a hefty punch.
The last sandwich I ate was at R Image Market on Folsom and 25th. It’s a quiet spot that’s definitely more homey than hip – even though there’s a sign in the window that says, “We have Kombucha,” and according to the Inside Scoop article taped on the deli counter, Jennifer Newsom is a frequent and fervent customer.
Looking for a little insider intel, I asked R Image's resident sandwich-crafter Ray to tell me his favorite menu item, but he refused to give me a straight answer. I tried telling him I was writing a story on his sandwiches. “What’s special about yours?” I asked. He showed me his hands in response. Finally, he told me about his famous homemade onion-jalapeño relish, which he says is best with turkey and lots of smashed avocado.
I wanted to include at least one vegetarian option in my sandwich spree, so I asked for a Caprese (with a side of relish, just to try). It was simple, fresh, and overstuffed with thick slabs of quality mozzarella and perfect slices of tomato and basil, all slathered in just the right amount of olive oil and balsamic vinegar. It was almost as big as my sandwich from Roxie's – and it was super cheap (prices start at $4.50!). R Image's sandwiches strike the perfect balance between creative and comforting. I was so pleased with this budget-friendly discovery that, for selfish reasons, I debated leaving it out of this article.
Throughout my sandwich scavenger hunt, I thought a lot about why I get such a kick from eating food in unexpected places. There’s the exclusivity factor – anyone with 12 bucks to spare can grab lunch at Tartine, but only those in-the-know can brag about tiny deli counters and secret sandwich specials. It’s also thrilling to consume a meal in a space that’s purposely non-gourmet. But my favorite aspect is that all expectations are off the table in these types of situations.
It’s doubly exciting to discover a delectable sandwich – whether filled with fancy ingredients or fail-proof basics – right where you buy your toilet paper. Who knows what’s waiting for you around the corner?
Rhea's is great for Dolores Park picnics – or skip the line and get delivery.
Don’t expect to sit down anywhere inside Roxie's or R Image Market, but do expect cheap, gigantic, legit liquor store sandwiches.
