Unlike many follow-the-trend complainers these days (who clearly either haven’t lived in the FAR less beautiful, quality-packed and easily navigable other major U.S. cities — or aren’t being honest about the many downsides of all those major cities in comparison), 21 years later I still never tire of the stunning beauty, quirk, quality and uniqueness of San Francisco. Having grown up in NYC and LA areas (and ALL cities have problems, but not all have the wealth of benefits), I continuously marvel at our city’s incredible balance of gorgeous nature with cosmopolitan city or charming neighborhoods; its ease of weaving from water to forest, hilltop to cove. And views upon views.

One of the most enchanting lodging options literally a stone’s throw from the city is Cavallo Point, tucked into Fort Baker cove at the base of the hills right off Golden Gate Bridge in Sausalito, gazing out at SF, the Bay and the Bridge. Besides its breathtaking views, it could almost be a part of the city, it’s so close. Yet it’s worlds away.

Opened in 2008, Cavallo Point’s 142 rooms and suites are housed in a series of buildings: early 20th-century white colonial revival houses (part of Ft. Baker’s former army post) and modern, eco-friendly buildings, circled around a huge lawn leading to boats parked in the Bay under the gaze of the Bridge. In 2010, the hotel was LEED Gold certified for its environmental, eco-friendly practices. Cavallo loans out complimentary Lexus cars during the day on a first-come, first-serve basis for nearby excursions. And they house a lovely spa where I had one of the best, most relaxing massages — thanks to their clinical masseuses — I’ve ever had in dozens of the world’s best hotels and spas.

While guests have the option of complimentary guided hikes, yoga, sauna, steam rooms, meditation pool and fitness center, my ideal was solo hikes and strolls along the Bay or the hills behind the resort, breathing in eucalyptus trees and taking in those radiant Bridge, Bay and City views. While I relish the architecture of the colonial revival houses, the views from the modern buildings are unbeatable (I also love cozy window seats with a view, as I’ve stayed twice in the modern rooms and once in the colonial-era over the past decade).

My recent return centered around Cavallo Point’s new restaurants opened October 13, 2022. There are two new spots where there was originally one: the more upscale Sula, formerly Murray Circle — which technically has two spaces including its late-night, casual but chic Sula Lounge — and the more laid back Farley, centered around comfort food. SF-born chef Michael Garcia helms each kitchen (with a past cooking at the legendary Stars and Farallon), sourcing local ingredients and tributing SF and the Bay Area on his menus.

On my recent December getaway, I dined at each restaurant on separate nights, in between invigorating and glorious sunsets… an idyllic getaway literally just 15 minutes from home.

Sula

Sula is the more elegant of the two restaurants, though very comfortable with a hip lounge warmed by wood, brass, fireplace and modern-with-a-whiff-of-midcentury feel. This opens into a muted dining room graced by striking paintings, booths and giant brass lamps.

Our kind server Francisco led us through a range of shared dishes, including a few items from the lounge, like a mini-lobster roll in a squid ink bun or sweet onion truffle dip. But the best starters were on the Sula dining room menu: a winter-worthy fuyu persimmon salad piled over endive with fromage blanc, dried cherries and hazelnuts in a sherry-touched dressing. A Dungeness crab salad is cool and deconstructed, a trout roe-topped crab salad surrounded by avocado, organic cucumbers, baby tomatoes, friseé and citrus crème fraiche. Another crisp, clean starter was hamachi crudo dotted with cubes of pickled golden beets, red onion, capers, fried shallots, and emulsified lemon preserves. Lobster dry sherry red curry velouté is a refined soup poured over lobster, coconut and heirloom potatoes. Another elegant warmer on a crisp night.

Though I was interested in Maine lobster bucatini and porcini leek risotto, we tried so many small plates to get a variety of flavors that we could only squeeze in one larger entree of Muscovy duck breast partnered with gorgonzola polenta fritters, apples, celeriac and roasted brussel sprouts. The duck was the ideal medium rare, tasting like the holidays with its contrast of sweet, blue cheese funk and vegetal accompaniments.

On the wine list, the strawberry-crisp minerality of a 2021 Seehof Pinot Noir rosé from Germany paired well with multiple dishes, while a fun, local orange wine, Stolpman Vineyards’ ‘Love You Bunches’ Orange of Muscat/Pinot Gris/Mourvèdre, fared well with bar bites like the onion dip. The wine list veers from California to Spain, Italy and France, while cocktails lean spirituous at Sula, like Smoking Katana: Akashi Japanese Blended Whisky, mezcal, Bigallet China China, grapefruit bitters.

An understated dessert of rice pudding in kataifi pastry dough was cool yet warming with a ginger poached pear in cherry-ginger sauce. Sula is an easy jaunt from the city for a meal and a soothing respite if staying here.

Farley

Warmed by service from our gracious server Miguel, Farley is the upscale pub-like restaurant of the two, laid back, albeit with black press-tinned ceiling and comfy banquettes. The menu includes comfort foods like Parker House rolls, oysters, poached prawns, umami fries and Journeyman Meats charcuterie from the Healdsburg (Sonoma County) butcher favorite.

But it gets a little more interesting with Rancho Gordo avocado popcorn dusted in avocado powder, jalapenos, lime, cotija cheese and cilantro, or gluten-free fontina cheese and pumpkin arancini in pumpkin seed-Madras curry aioli. While a blue crab cake was decent (wished for more dill in the dill remoulade), in true California form, salads are better than expected, like a mountain of bibb lettuce layered with salt-roasted Bosc pears, walnuts, Point Reyes Blue Cheese and an apple cider dressing. A seafood paella is hearty and more than enough for two, if not exactly tasting like Spain. But saffron rice loaded with clams, mussels, shrimp, lobster, crab, chorizo, peppers, cilantro and garlic aioli is a feast.

On the drink side, straightforward cocktails (like the nice, tart rhubarb in Royal Blush: Hangar 1 Vodka, Broker’s Gin, rhubarb, lemon, sparkling wine) co-exist alongside four, rotating local beers in the can or on draft (like ever fun Laughing Monk Brewing’s Holy Ghost Pilsner from SF). Wines by the glass offer a few gems like sparkling 2017 Bedrock Wine Co. Under the Wire Brut Rosé of Pinot Noir from Mendocino or cult wines like 2017 RAEN “Royal St. Robert” Pinot Noir from the Sonoma Coast, a pricier splurge ($34 per glass), but almost impossible to find by the glass most places.

While I wouldn’t exactly call Farley a destination restaurant, it’s a relaxed option staying here and with its front porch and those killer views, could be a destination-worthy brunch, breakfast, lunch or pre-sunset stop.

// 601 Murray Circle, Sausalito; www.cavallopoint.com