When Michelin Guide and Rémy Martin Cognac host a weekend with Healdsburg (the popular town in northern Sonoma County) greats, you go. Especially when its with three Michelin, The World’s 50 Best Restaurants’ SingleThread and luxe hotel Montage Healdsburg… and in your “backyard” just over an hour from home.
This was my fifth visit dining at the truly special SingleThread, as I’ve visited roughly each year since it opened in December 2016, not counting early pandemic. It was my return visit to Little Saint, the new, plant-based vegan sister restaurant from SingleThread’s gracious husband-wife owners Kyle and Katina Connaughton, with chef Bryan Oliver (my full review here). But it was (finally) my first visit to SingleThread’s farm.
Following in these steps, a pampering weekend or overnight could involve either or both of these restaurants and a stay at the Montage with highlights and key points on each.
SINGLETHREAD FARMS
Despite my years dining at SingleThread and even staying at the Connaughton’s magical inn off the square in downtown Healdsburg, I had yet to visit their farm. This is their newer farm near Healdsburg in Dry Creek Valley, much larger than their original farm with 24 acres. Bringing biodiversity to grape-heavy wine country, they’ve impressively planted hundreds of varieties of diverse crops in the last two years since moving onto the farm. Besides the wide range of gorgeous produce and flowers they’re growing, they’re heavily focused on healthy soil and forward-thinking practices to sustain in ongoing climate change and preserve the land for future generations. Mentorship burgeoning chefs and farmers is a key part of their inspiring efforts.
Having been together since they were 15 and 16, Kyle jokes, “I get to wake up with my farmer,” as Katina heads the farm, while he helms the SingleThread restaurant. Tasting grapes, strawberries and peppers off the vines, walking through vibrant flowers and squash, pulling beets from the earth, exploring the many varieties of each vegetable, fruit and flower on the expansive grounds, was a thrill for the senses.
Here, you see, smell, taste the heart and soul of the brilliant community and holistic processes the Connaughtons have established around them, recently becoming the biggest employer in the town of Healdsburg with over 200 on their team, from farm to restaurants. Breaking up monocropping grapes in Sonoma County with SingleThread Farms’ diverse habitat aids the region’s soil, air, animals and beyond. Their mentoring and environmental processes also lead to artistry and beauty in the field and on the plate, reflecting Kyle and team’s expert skill and technique in the kitchen, and Katina and team’s care of the earth.
SINGLETHREAD Restaurant
Returning to the globally lauded SingleThread restaurant a fifth time is a privilege, as I can taste and see its progression from one to three Michelin stars over the years and it’s rise to the top 50 restaurants in the world at The World’s 50 Best Restaurants. A return also confirms the Connaughton’s unique vision which remains as hospitable and authentic as they are.
Enhancing the night was a pre-dinner talk on the rooftop with Michelin and Rémy Martin executive chef out from Cognac, France, Romuald Feger. The conversation on cooking and growing food with care for a swiftly changing climate, on mentoring the next generation/s and on doing things differently was inspiring.
Katina’s plants, flowers and produce (including the likes of moss and branches) decorate each table as you sit, the unforgettable, artful introduction to every meal at SingleThread, dotted with multiple amuse bouche reflecting Kyle’s masterful background, including three Michelin restaurants in England and Japan, but showcasing local ingredients from their nearby farm.
Dish highlights were many and a number of them were those initial bites of seafood and produce happiness already waiting for us as we sat down. Other standouts included the oily richness of shima aji (striped jack fish) married with the brightness of passionfruit, cucumber and gooseberry, or koshihikari rice shime and short rib lush with sourdough negi cream and green peppercorn. Dishes were paired with joys like a lush 2016 Ronchi di Cialla Schioppettino from Italy’s Friuli-Venezia-Giulia regions or 2013 Peay Ama Estate Pinot Noir from the nearby Sonoma Coast, showing beautifully at nearly 10 years of age, still lively with lean acidity. Rémy Martin XO Fine Champagne Cognac (of course) played richly with Okinawan sponge cake and hay ice cream for dessert. It was another dreamy feast at this one-of-a-kind restaurant that is very much of and represents Sonoma County and NorCal.
LITTLE SAINT
Returning to Little Saint since it’s April 2022 opening, it has only further solidified its plant-based, vegan focus and spotlight on year-round Northern California bounty. Minor kinks like the fun but loud noise of local bands in the main lofty dining room have been resolved with an upstairs stage and separate dining and bar space for music (currently Thursday nights).
Katina showcased fall in all its glowing beauty with fall leaves, branches, wildflowers and a rustic but lavish spread across our upstairs table. Chef Oliver illuminated the last of our divine tomatoes with fuyu persimmons for a summer-meets-fall-into-winter dish tied together by sesame seeds. House spreads and unreal crudite from the Little Saint garden and SingleThread farm remain a highlight of the meal. Wine director Alexandria Sarovich’s thoughtful pick of local, small production wines seals the whole experience, while special Remy Martin Cognac cocktails made by bar director Matt Seigel and the bar team made for an idyllic cocktail hour at sunset.
Where to Stay: MONTAGE HEALDSBURG
Covering 258 acres in the north Sonoma County town of Healdsburg, Montage Healdsburg opened in January 2021 — the first NorCal property from the SoCal/Orange County-based hotel and resort brand. Duplex cottages dot the expansive property, offering plenty of privacy, cradled amid moss-covered California oak trees surrounded by rolling vineyards.
In a rare move given my other meals over my two-night stay, I didn’t experience Montage’s Hazel Hill restaurant, but did have solid cocktails in their inviting Scout Field lobby bar, with more fun cocktails poolside. I also did not experience the spa. But the expansive pools are (thankfully!) separated with walls and a bar for those with kids. This happily means the pool for the rest of us was relaxing and quiet on my weekday visit (which is more than I can say for many luxury hotels where noisy kids ruin any chance of a restorative swim or sunbathing).
My room felt like a swank but understated apartment, a respite and retreat perched atop the hill for my unit (a bit of walk up or down from the lobby and pool, but a scenic one, with golf cart rides available if you call ahead). Solid woods, chic, modern decor, a living room and bedroom area and large bathroom, flanked by floor to ceiling windows letting in those views and oak eucalyptus trees, was nurturing.
The staff are friendy and attentive. Ending the night in my room with a make-my-own Rémy Martin XO Cognac Old Fashioned in Montage’s beautiful glassware was my ideal nightcap. Overall, the experience is pampering, from eco-friendly soaps and products to comfy beds. It’s an ideal splurge and retreat for those of us who live in the city (SF) and broader Bay Area and for those looking for a memorable vacation from further afield.
