It’s that time of year again: I sift through the hundreds of new local restaurants I’ve visited this year (plus a few hundred more national and international restaurants), namely those opened December 2021 through November 2022, sorting through what standouts most… and why.
As with every year, I dined at the majority of Bay Area openings: almost all in SF, but also the majority of notable newcomers in Napa, Sonoma, Marin, East Bay and the Peninsula. Yes, it has been a typical very busy eating year, again confirming why we live in one of the most glorious regions to eat and drink in the world.
There is no way to include all “bests,” especially factoring in bakeries, hole-in-the-walls, and every level of dining. So we’ll start with 10 honorable mentions in alphabetical order (all in SF unless noted otherwise):
Bodega
Don Pancho Pizzeria
Kowbird, Oakland
La Société
Lyon & Swan
Maybeck’s
Montesacro Marina
Rosemary & Pine
Taishoken
Uccello Lounge
Top 10 New Bars of 2022 (most with notable food):
1. For the Record
2. Members Only/Finders Keepers
3. Rise Over Run
4. The Madrigal
5. Bar Piccino
6. St. Regis Martini Bar
7. Liliana inside Osito
8. Buddy
9. Bar Nonnina inside Fiorella Sunset
10. KAIYO Rooftop
Top 14 New Restaurants of 2022
Click on each restaurant review for details on why they are special. Without further ado, 2022’s top 14 new restaurants:
1. Osito, Mission District
Why: Osito, a truly unique live fire cooking restaurant from inspiring chef Seth Stowaway gained a Michelin star in less than a year of opening (a rare feat). It’s not often I’m surprised (or haven’t seen) a particular dish, having dined at over 12,000 top restaurants around the world… but when I tasted Stowaway’s raw guinea hen tartare, among other variations of guinea hen, it was a first, invoking surprise and delight. Review here.
2. Birch & Rye, Noe Valley
Why: Birch & Rye is a one-of-a-kind modern Russian restaurant not just in the Bay Area but anywhere. Chef Anya Anya El-Wattar dove in head-first to feed Ukrainians, raising over $100k with Dominique Crenn (she’s held more fundraisers since) at Birch & Rye. She’s got vision, from her unique vegan menu to decadent a la carte and caviar-laden tasting menus, to bring the soul of Russian food into artful form — in a relaxed, neighborhood restaurant [Disclaimer: since my initial review, I’ve been consulting with the restaurant but would not include if I did not truly believe it was one of the year’s very best]. Review here.
3. Delfina, Mission District
Why: No, Delfina is not new. In fact, it’s nearly 25 years old. But after being closed since March 2020, completely remodeled, revamped and, yes, just reborn late October 2022, it feels like the Delfina that was always meant to be. Review here.
4. AFICI, SoMa
Why: AFICI’s lofty, industrial space, chef Eric Upper’s elevated tasting menus, full animal utilization, handmade pastas and an A5 charcuterie program unlike any you’ve seen before, all make this a special night out. Review here.
5. Sorella, Polk Gulch
Why: From the Italian food and wine masters behind two Michelin-starred Acquerello, Sorella is the casual, neighborhood sister restaurant where chef Denise St. Onge’s food only gets better each time I visit — and the wine and Italian amari (amaro) selection is worth coming in for alone. Review here.
6. Ancora, Mission District
Why: Ancora holds great promise. As a new restaurant opened by Andi and Joe Conte of Water2Table — the sustainable seafood company that many Bay Area restaurants source from — with chef Nick Anichini (who was chef de cuisine at three Michelin-starred Atelier Crenn), the inspired seafood and pasta courses are some of the most ambitious of the year. Review here.
7. Shuggie’s Trash Pie, Mission District
Why: Shuggie’s Trash Pie is a damn good time. It’s unlike any pizza joint, natural wine bar or “upcycled” foods restaurant (using all parts, even the “ugly” parts/scraps of the food) you’ve ever been to. In fact, it’s unlike any other restaurant. Period. In its bright yellow and green rooms, expect hip whimsy and thankfully delicious, unique pizzas. Review here.
8. Handroll Project, Mission District
Why: Impossibility to get in moves this further down the list than it would be, but other than the lack of reservations or seating, the Handroll Project is a prime example of how handroll bars should be done (and how delectable they should be). Review here.
9. Automat, NoPa
Why: From all-day cafe to creative but casual dinner menus, Automat is the kind of elevated neighborhood spot every neighborhood should have from Matthew Kirk and David Barzelay of two Michelin-starred Lazy Bear. Whether stellar sandwiches or Jack in the Box-inspired crispy tacos, this menu is FUN quality (even if service is hit-and-miss). Review here.
10. Bar Sprezzatura, Financial District
Why: Just opening late November 2022, Bar Sprezzatura barely made the cutoff for my 2022 openings consideration (review coming later this month after my follow-up visit). But from my first visit in December, it immediately impressed. Carlo Splendorini’s cocktails, chef Joseph Offner’s modern chichetti (Venetian bites), warm service and the gorgeous, light-filled space evoke Paris or Milan… a chic, unique and welcome experience.
11. The Laundromat, Outer Richmond
Why: Open November 10, 2022, The Laundromat also barely made the cutoff for my 2022 openings (review coming later this month). At first glance, it’s “just” a bagel shop by day and limited 4–5 pizzas and a couple salads menu at night. But it’s so much more. From the convivial vibe, old movies on flat screens, extensive records playing, smart natural wine, vermouth and local beers list, delicious few dishes and welcoming service, it’s the kind of neighborhood hangout every neighborhood wishes it had.
12. Tenderheart, Union Square/SoMa
Why: In the new LINE Hotel SF, Tenderheart greases the wheels with Danny Louie’s cocktails, then seals the deal with chef Joe Hou’s inspired mashup of cultures on a plate. Review here.
13. Piala Georgian Cuisine, Sebastopol
Why: There are many excellent restaurants in Sonoma County, but in Sebastopol, cozy Piala Georgian Cuisine delivers what few do anywhere in the U.S.: nourishing, beautifully made Georgian food (the country) and its beloved wines, with an impeccably curated mini-shop of Eastern European wines to go.
14. Bar Agricole, SoMa
Why: Bar Agricole is nothing like its original incarnation, gaining new life in its massive, three-room space on an odd SoMa block. It’s a destination for spirits lovers with its own house single-origin spirits line from producers who farm responsibly and use zero chemicals, with food and cocktails to match in the dining rooms. Though I want to see more of what I miss from chef Nick Balla on the food menu here (he’s running the kitchen with chef Will Napoli), all is quality and I’m thrilled he’s back in town. Review here.
