Like Chinatown, San Francisco’s Japantown was the first of its kind in the nation — and during the pandemic, it’s been struggling.
On top of smaller-than-average crowds visiting the kitschy 1980’s-spirited Japantown mall, which we hope forever keeps its “retro” bones, the racism faced by Asian neighbors affects all Asian communities. (For the month of May, SF is one of four U.S. cities participating in Chefs Stopping AAPI Hate [CSAH], a fundraising dinner series in honor of Asian American and Pacific Islander Heritage Month; where you can dine and support here).
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In the meantime, here are five of Japantown’s great foodie destinations you can support in person or via takeout and delivery. And don’t forget: Shop at the great Nijiya Market, should you want to find yourself amidst the most in-depth collections of Japanese groceries, ready-to-eat-foods, and sake in the Bay Area.
1. Sasa for all the sushi
There are three excellent sushi spots in Japantown Mall (all included here), with Sasa being the most spacious, a soothing dining room with sushi-making in view but distanced. Sasa strikes a fine balance of exquisite fish from Japan’s legendary Toyosu Market (formerly Tsukiji Fish Market), formed into proper nigiri and maki (rolls), but a midpoint price below many of the city’s tiny Michelin-starred sushi bars. For takeout or delivery, their silky fish, chirashi bowls and sushi feel like an indulgent treat. Must try: divine scallops from Hokkaido in a scallop roll with snow crab and cucumber, creamy with Kyoto white miso aioli.
Info: Japan Center East Mall (2nd floor, above Daiso), 22 Peace Plaza, Suite 530, sasawc.com
2. Oma San Francisco Station is Omakase heaven
Just recently reopened, the tiny Oma San Francisco Station feels like being transported straight to Japan where superb sushi bars line subway stations. This eight-seat sushi counter has just such a vibe, casual yet top-notch from its fish selection to a small sake collection. It’s an omakase (お任せ: “entrust the chef”, tasting menu) only format when dining in, plus a few platters of oshizushi (pressed sushi) on the takeout menu. It’s the kind of place where you can dialogue with the sushi chefs and ask questions.
Info: Japan Center West, 1737 Post Street, Suite 337, omasfstation.com
3. Kissako Tea
What started as a little stand under Japantown mall stairs in 2007, has grown into a larger seating area to savor Japanese tea, sweets, bento, dango, udon, and onigiri. Kissako Tea hooked me first and foremost with their homemade, irresistibly tender mochi (my lifelong best friend said they tasted just like her grandmother from Tokyo used to make). But here is where I fell for Japanese delights like mitarashi dango, chewy sweet rice dumplings, skewered on a bamboo stick in a sweet soy sauce glaze — ideal for those of us who like savory desserts. Their onigiri (triangular rice balls) are the perfect snack, standouts including salmon or unagi (eel).
Info: Japan Center West, 1581 Webster Street, Suite 195, sfjapantown.org
4. Marufuku Ramen SF
Though soba or udon are my preferred Japanese noodles (for udon in Japantown mall, head to Udon Mugizo), there’s no denying ramen is the national favorite. And Marufuku Ramen is arguably one of the city’s best, often forming lines inside the mall to get into its cozy shop. Now with five locations, they run a robust takeout and delivery game, but also have spaced-out indoor dining. Known for their Hakata-style tonkotsu ramen (milky, umami-rich broth that comes from hours of boiling pork bones), their thin-but-lush noodles and savory cha-shu pork and chicken-based paitan ramen are signatures.
Info: Japan Center West, 1581 Webster Street, Suite 235, marufukuramen.com
5. An Japanese Restaurant
Humble, cozy, and having just reopened on March 2nd for indoor dining, An Japanese Restaurant has been an under-the-radar sushi gem since 2015. The look is old school, as is the warm but restrained service, but the Toyosu Market (formerly Tsukiji) fish is pristine with options well beyond the basic tuna, salmon, yellowtail realm. An [庵] means a cottage where monks and artists would rest and retreat and this nigiri respite feels like an escape, one with tiered omakase tasting menu options and a la carte sushi, as well as a to-go menu.
Info: Japan Center East Mall (2nd floor), 22 Peace Plaza, Suite 510, sushiansf.com