FRIDAY FIVE
Each of these five bars are ideal for a holiday sip as they are for imbibing year round (and most serve quality eats, too). Per usual: I’ve vetted, visited, or ordered from each of these spots reviewed.
Linden Room (Hayes Valley)
Over the years, I’ve written regularly on Nightbird and chef Kim Alter, who has long been one of SF’s great chefs. The fine-dining restaurant is back since summer 2021, though technically, this is the one bar without food, unless you book next door at Nightbird.
Whether you make a night of it or slip into Linden Room off a side alley, high-quality elegance is in play (think: ideal date night, quiet conversation with a friend or a comforting solo drink). The intimate bar barely seats 10, so come early or late to snag a seat. Drinks feature housemade infusions and syrups made by chef Alter and team, a winning example of kitchen and bar partnership. Recent cocktail joys include Cherry Blossom: gin, dry vermouth and Maurin quina liqueur infused with sour cherries, given further intrigue with a touch of absinthe and lime. Or herbaceous, alpine vibes of the Johin cocktail: Japanese gin, genepy and tarragon-infused vermouth with an aromatic whisper of makrut lime.
// 292 Linden Street, www.nightbirdrestaurant.com/linden-room
Buddy (Mission District)
Opening November 2021 in the Mission in the original Californios space, Buddy was destined for greatness with the team of Nicolas Torres (True Laurel), Nora Furst (Uma Casa), Alvaro Rojas (Elda) and Claire Sprouse (Hunky Dory, Brooklyn) behind it. Rather than copying True Laurel’s visionary cocktails, Torres and Furst focused on creative low proof cocktails and a tight, smart natural wine list (with bottles to-go), partnering with Christopher Renfro on the wine program.
Chef Sean Thomas’ (longtime chef at Blue Plate) marries comfort food with creativity in dishes like franks ‘n beans laced with linguica sausage, white miso, butter beans, Calabrian chilies, or a striking fried mortadella sandwich. Even a chicory-pink lady apples-pickled onion salad is memorable in curried apple butter and tahini vin. The Gilda dip is a savvy twist on the popular pintxos (skewered bite) from Spain, featuring the Gilda’s traditional anchovies, guindilla peppers and manzanilla olives with cream cheese and black currants: a sweet-savory dip. Drink highlights are many, whether a lush 2020 La Sabots d’Helene red wine from France’s Languedoc region, or gratifying Bitter Milk Punch of Rubino Vermouth, Angostura Bitters, citrus and a touch of fresh cherry juice.
// 3115 22nd Street, www.instagram.com/buddythebar
La Paloma at La Cocina Municipal Marketplace (Tenderloin)
La Cocina has long been an exemplary food-with-a-cause non-profit. Their women-centric, 7,000-square-foot food hall, La Cocina Municipal Marketplace, opened in April 2021 slowly changing its corner of the Tenderloin with positivity, deliciousness, support of immigrants and LGBTQ. In October, they opened the La Paloma bar. The cocktail menu is short but sweet, spirits lean towards those distilled by women, with local beers on draft and a couple wines. Cocktails are created by consultant Claire Sprouse (also behind Buddy in this article), with the initial standout being the crushable Ponche San Francisco, a rum punch of Salvadoran rum, guava, lime, cinnamon, although Mai Tai variation, the Hyde Tyde (Mexican rum, pineapple liqueur, lime) shines with pepita/pumpkin seed syrup.
Sit at the bar with foods from diverse immigrant vendors lining the market, managed by chef Jay Foster of Farmerbrown and Little Skillet. Each vendor is worthwhile: all the Mexican food vendors, Nepalese Bini’s Kitchen and Boug Cali. Kayma’s chef Wafa and Mounir Bahloul offer Algerian rarities like coca, flaky Algerian puff pastries filled with cumin ground beef or tomato and onion. Teranga chef Nafy Flatley serves tough-to-find Senegalese/pan-African food, like a playful Senegal Street-style spaghetti sandwich of Bolognese spaghetti smashed between a crunchy Acme bakery roll and her smart add of chermoula sauce. For a post-meal espresso, the hall’s Fluid Coffee Cooperative Cafe offers top-notch third wave coffee from trans activists JoJo Ty, Santana Tapia and Shannon Amitin and local LGBTQ/trans coffee roasters/brands.
// 101 Hyde Street, https://lacocinamarketplace.menu/lacocina
Top of the Mark, Nob Hill
Top of the Mark — on the nineteenth floor of Mark Hopkins Hotel — is an SF institution since 1939, though the building dates to 1906. Christmas may be the best time to visit when the lobby and restaurant is lined with trees, wreaths and sparkling lights, while experiences from Christmas tea to local Hanson of Sonoma Organic Vodka and caviar or chocolate pairings. Let’s get this out of the way: the quality of the food and some drink options are absolutely subpar compared to what we’re spoiled with everywhere in this city. Bar food can taste stale and some wine options and or Kahlua-laced cocktails cater to tourists. But order wisely and it’s worth a locals’ visit on occasion to celebrate a landmark with one of the best views in SF, sweeping from Golden Gate Bridge to Bay Bridge.
Try the house twist on a French 75: Intercontinental 75, a not-too-sweet Botanist Gin-lemon-Champagne cocktail with honey-lavender-bee pollen rim, though I preferred a holiday special of absinthe, pear liqueur, lime and Champagne that recalls a classic Death in the Afternoon cocktail, blessedly absinthe-forward and robustly elegant. Stick with the likes of a Last Word cocktail or a glass of Piper Heidsieck Brut Champagne, where it’s harder to go wrong. Caviar service featured lovely, local Tsar Nicoulai caviar delivered cartside, but the blini are oddly sweet and strange additions like chewy salmon or crushed-up capers feel out of place. Still, the staff aim to please while the view sparkles and shimmers below, reminding us why we live in one of the most beautiful cities in the world.
// 999 California Street, www.sfmarkhopkins.com/top-of-the-mark
ChezChez (Mission)
Open August 2021 from Trick Dog’s Josh Harris and BV Hospitality, Chezchez does not merely live in Trick Dog’s shadow. I miss their Bon Voyage menu previously in the space, but similar decor touches remain in the lofty bar, while operating partner and sommelier Drew Record ensures a gracious welcome alongside his friendly bar team. Bites like conservas (tinned fish) and ChezChez crispy potatoes (dissolve-in-the-mouth potato puffs) confirm this is a bar with quality food from chef Timmy Malloy. While the cocktails aren’t as challenging as at Bon Voyage, Harris and beverage director Jennifer Colliau have gone with key categories — including ubiquitous Old Fashioneds and Negronis — listing variations under each.
I weary of the five millionth versions of these classics, but thankfully there is something for everyone on the menu. A few more interesting variations draw me in, especially the Alpine Daiquiri, showcasing Banks 5 Rum’s subtle funk with lime and an herbaceous “Chezchez alpine blend” of Yellow Chartreuse and genepy, and the Coastal Martini of Manzanilla sherry, Svöl aquavit and Routin Vermouth Blanc. Both are crushable and easy without being basic or typical.
// 584 Valencia Street, chezchezinsf.com
