To say the last seventeen months have been anything but easy for local restaurants. They’ve experienced financial ruin — leaving many unable to recover from the loss of revenue from having to adapt to Covid-19 protocols. But the Bay Area’s gastronomy is recovering. Restaurants and bars are reopening; parklets have ushered in a new era of al fresco dining; takeout and to-go options can now exist alongside indoor restaurant eating.
In an attempt to help you sift through the increasing number of newly opened gastronomy hubs, I’ve compiled a vetted list of new eateries to check out (after having personally visited each one, myself).
Here are seven new openings worth visiting now… and why.
Barrio in Fisherman’s Wharf
Ghirardelli Square is becoming a good spot for locals to eat. Palette Tea House is already a destination-worthy hub, and, having just opened on July 9th, Barrio is now serving kickass Mexican cuisine in the square.
Their housemade heirloom blue corn tortillas are irresistible — either in taco form or used in their quesadilla-like quekas. Bar manager Michael Carlisi keeps the agave drinks spirit-forward, and his current cocktail list remains short and simple… until they have adequate staff working. Barrio’s margarita and the Mexican rum-based D.T.O. (Daiquiri Time Out) are clear standouts.
// 900 North Point Street, more info
The Lounge at The Ritz-Carlton: San Francisco in Union Square
When chef Michael Rotondo came on board in 2013 at The Ritz-Carlton San Francisco, I’ve remained a huge fan of his inspired menus that go above and beyond many a hotel restaurant.
He just launched new dishes at the Lounge where you can dine under lofty ceilings and columns on bites and drinks or go for a full feast. Current seasonal delights included a slow-roasted Early Girl tomato accented with fennel, spruce, and plum, or a luxurious squid ink tagliatelle and zucchini ribbons pasta over romesco sauce, layered with trout roe and King Salmon confit from salmon Michael caught himself in Bodega Bay the day prior.
The equally inspired cocktails make ideal pairings with the food but are no less exceptional when enjoyed by themselves. The balanced Highland Mist —Glenmorangie Quinta Ruban Scotch, Otima 10 Year Tawny Port, muddled blackberries, grated nutmeg—is nothing short of spectacular.
// 600 Stockton Street, more info
Otra in the Lower Haight
Husband-wife Nick and Anna Sager Cobarruvias (who also run the Mission’s Son’s Addition) opened Otra in May 2021 with a dining room, mezzanine, bar, and parklet seating, set to a vibrant jungle mural designed by Rachel Sager. Taking inspiration from his travels in Mexico and his grandfather’s Jaliscan roots, Nick is making tortillas from house masa featuring nixtamalized (an ancient soaking and cooking process that removes contaminants and heightens flavor) heirloom corn sourced from small growers. Locally, there is no end to excellent Mexican food — and we have creative vegetarian taco masters like Tacos Oscar.
Though there are meat and fish options here (like a comforting hamachi collar in tomatillo salsa), it’s their vegetable-driven options that steal the show. Think roasted sweet potato tacos dotted with spicy cashew crema, feta, and corn-black bean salsa. Haven’t yet tried the straightforward-looking cocktails, but they (of course) focus on agave spirits.
// 628 Haight Street, more info
Saffron in San Carlos, CA
I’ve long appreciated restaurateur Ajay Walia’s Michelin-starred Rasa Contemporary Indian in Burlingame.
Recently, Walia completely reshifted and remodeled his Saffron Indian Bistro in San Carlos from a casual buffet-style Indian restaurant to a pristine white, more upscale yet still casual restaurant after taking notes from the community. Many of the recipes pay homage to Walia’s childhood in New Delhi, alongside favorites like a killer “old Delhi-style” butter chicken. Other standouts include the Indian-Chinese mash-up of General Tso’s cauliflower in a tomato chili sauce, the lush fish curry in coriander masala coconut milk curry, and desserts like a comforting cardamom rice pudding or spongy-sweet gulab jamun.
// 1143 San Carlos Avenue, San Carlos, more info
Chef Reina Brisbane, CA
Since becoming vegan, Chef Reina (her cooking/catering background here) has been honing meat substitutes and recipes evoking meaty texture and flavors in her homestyle Filipino recipes, being from the Philippine island of Negros. But her international specials also shine, like shockingly spot-on versions of bulgogi “beef” Korean tacos or “chicken” katsu in Japanese curry. In the sleepy town of Brisbane, less than 10 miles south of SF, she opened her tiny walk-up window (with one outdoor table), Chef Reina, in April 2021. This June, Hong Kong brand Ominpork expanded its reach to more restaurants and Reina has been perfecting her “pork” dishes with their boundary-pushing pork substitute.
Her vegan version of classic Filipino tocilog is crazy-good, a mix of vegan fried “egg,” rice, tomato, and pink, tender “pork.” Her tinkering and honing of these “meats” appease even meat-eaters like myself (and I’m tough to convert on meat substitutes). Now you’re schooled on my “secret” new gem of a vegan (and Filipino) food destination.
// 33 Visitacion Avenue, Brisbane, more info
Itria in the Mission District
Open mid-May in the former Obispo at 24th and Mission, amid a time where upscale pizza joints are proliferating San Francisco.
But Itria’s intention to grow its fresh pasta and Crudo bar in tandem with its offerings come from its pizza ovens is a welcomed spin on the classic norm. Itria had planned this marrying of the two since they began pop-ups in fall 2019. Alas for now: It’s still yet another pizza joint. (We are flush with world-class pizza in every category in this town but the joint’s pizza goes in welcomingly different directions: cold fermented yeast dough, rectangle-shaped and baked on hot steel pans, the dough balances crispy, bubbly and airy.
Taking cues from Che Fico’s brilliant pineapple Calabrian chile pizza (which I really miss in its original form pre-pandemic), Itria’s Hawaiian pizza comforts with bacon, roasted pineapple, and Fresno chiles. Add this one to your must-try pizzas in the city.
// 3266 24th Street, more info
Shokudou in Bernal Heights
Open late April 2021 in cozy Bernal Heights, Shokudou isn’t exactly worth crossing the city for, but the modern-industrial, white-walled space—which was converted from a hair salon—is an ideal neighborhood newcomer, currently takeout or dine-in only (so that means no delivery).
Whether miso cod or grilled yellowtail/hamachi collar, maki, nigiri, or kushiyaki skewers (think hearty beef Negi with green onions), this is an easy, casual spot for basic sushi and izakaya-style skewers and bites from chef Stewart Chen of Umi in Potrero Hill.
// 1000 Cortland Avenue, more info (via Yelp)
