Six new restaurants/eateries, plus one pre-pandemic gem and two bar stops, all draw me to the East Bay. Digging in also meant some disappointments, including solid but not destination-worthy cocktails at charming Palmetto, or overwrought cocktails that sound exciting but don’t deliver at The Miranda. But each of these eight has one (or a few) winning aspects. Per usual, I’ve vetted, visited or ordered from every place reviewed here:
WHERE TO EAT
Caribbean Chic: LITA, Walnut Creek
The East Bay’s biggest surprise of the moment may just be in suburban, chain-lined Walnut Creek: LITA opened January 2022, the stylish space recalls Miami down to its glowing, marbled bartop and gold/brass accents (no surprise: the space was designed by Miami-based Antoinette Emanuel). Owner Ghaben Partners runs neighboring Broderick Roadhouse, at LITA going for modern Cuban/Jamaican food with Caribbean-Miami chic.
Chef Nick Peters turns out delights like pitch-perfect Jamaican-style salt cod fritters with jerk aioli, irresistible fried sweet plantains, Caribbean street corn laced with allspice-thyme butter and spiced coconut crumble, or photo-worthy Maine lobster tail corn dogs that is tough to eat off two thin skewers. Trying all ceviches, the standout is easily kampachi, contrasted by jicama, cucumber, scallions in guava and coconut milk. Unexpectedly, sautéed jumbo prawns in black pepper sauce, coconut rice, pinto beans, plantains and charred pineapple-mango salsa is the savory-sweet winner, with an almost roux-like depth of flavor and comfort.
LITA’s cocktails created by Alex Arriaga are another reason to visit. Some run a bit sweet, like the St. Croix Crystal Milk Punch (Smith & Cross Navy Strength rum, Havana Club blanca and spiced rums, clarified milk, baking spices, pineapple, orange, lemon), though it’s a nice pairing with the black pepper shrimp. Flaming fun like Coco-naut (gin, Clement Mahina coconut liqueur, Genepy des Alpes, orange, lime, coconut with a float of Lemon Hart 151 rum) is more balanced and goes down all too easy.
// 1602 Bonanza Street, Walnut Creek; www.litawalnutcreek.com
Thai Creativity & Cocktails: Jo’s Modern Thai, Oakland
Jo’s Modern Thai opened in Oakland’s Laurel District July 2021 from chef Intu-on Kornnawong (who worked at Michelin-starred Kin Khao; created Intu-on pop-up) and owner Kao Saelee (of Berkeley’s Racha Cafe). Jo’s is centered around Intu-on’s northeastern Thai /Issan roots but pushes beyond traditional with proper Thai spiciness (says someone who spent months in Thailand 20 years ago). This isn’t exactly Kin Khao, Nari, Night + Market, Uncle Boon’s or Pok Pok (the latter two I sorely miss), all some of my modern Thai favorites in the U.S. over the past decade. But it’s more of that ilk than not.
Kornnawong’s makrut lime-laced pork laab burgers are all that (don’t miss them!), while wok-stir fried drunken noodles with local Smokin Woods BBQ brisket is fun but not overly-nuanced (it’s meaty and spicy with subtle aromatics). Her sleeper hits include coconut hotcakes, which are traditional kanom krok, one of my street food favorites in Thailand, laden with honeynut squash, green onion and fish roe/tobiko. Ditto crunchy minced catfish salad, spicy with chilies, cooled by mango, fish sauce, avocado, cashews, herbs, fried shallots, toasted coconut, lime dressing and lettuces.
The plant-lined back patio feels like being at a CA friend’s suburban home, service is friendly, while bold flavors and heat beg for cool drinks. Alongside natural wines and beers, Tayler Sampson’s (formerly Starline Social Club) cocktails are vibrant, though some work better than others; a 50/50 ratio in the four I tried. Makrut Three Ways sounds like a dream for makrut fanatics like me: makrut juice, makrut-infused Don Julio tequila, Mezcal Vida, Cocchi Americano, Birdseye chili tincture, lime oil. But it hit so heavy on makrut’s floral end, it was almost soapy, begging for tart, silky lime oil balance. Final Lamiat is a playful Michelada variant with Singha beer and pickled long beans, while Paying Homage — variation on a classic New York Sour — was the most realized. It’s layered, delicately balanced with Uncle Nearest 1884 Whiskey, Amaro Sfumato, guava, grapefruit and a float of Piedirosso wine. It drinks almost spirituous with a whisper of bright citrus and red wine tannins.
// 3725 MacArthur Boulevard, Oakland; www.josmodernthai.com
Downtown Elegant Comfort: Tribune, Oakland
The Tribune Tower is a landmark of the Oakland skyline, finally housing a restaurant worthy of its striking marquee and 8,400-square-foot space. Tribune opened August 2021 from Oakland natives’ Darrin Ballon and Omri Aflalo, who met working at SF’s Gary Danko. Packed and buzzy on my Sunday visit, Tribune exudes modern American brasserie vibes. The LA-created chopped salad gets its own variation here in roquefort dressing, while egg cavatelli pasta comforts in wild mushroom duxelle, hazelnuts, pecorino cheese and chanterelle confit, wisely available in half and full portions. Grilled local market fish “Amandine” was my favorite, a classic almond-crusted fish dish I love but rarely see on menus. On my visit, amandine rockfish was graced with house-cured lardo, charred citrus over wild rice pilaf. Sweetening the deal? A special of rockfish collar caramelized in brown sugar, pineapple and honey under fried scallion-cilantro “salad.” Yuzu cremeux in cocoa nib crumble, husk cherry, finger limes and mint makes a light, ideal finish.
The initial cocktail menu was short and not uber-creative but better than it sounds. Bourbon & “Cola” stood out, tasting like bourbon and Coke as a spirituous whiskey cocktail, layered with St. George Spirits’ bitter Bruto Americano, Ramazzotti amaro and Angostura bitters. There were only two white and two red wines on draft, but the list has expanded. A standout: dry, aromatic 2016 Little Frances “Luchsinger” Semillon from Lake County.
// 401 13th Street; www.tribuneoakland.com
Palestinian Brunch Goodness: Lulu, Berkeley
Reviewing Dyafa in 2018 as I wrote the Time Out food and drink section, I appreciated everything from its striking space to modern Palestinian food. Palestinian-American chef Mona Leena took over there when executive chef Reem Assil left, then Dyafa sadly closed in 2020. Thankfully, Leena is back with her charming Berkeley spot, Lulu (“pearl” in Arabic, chef Mona’s childhood nickname), opened August 2021. The small cafe and cozy patio is daytime-only, turning out Leena’s baked goods, heartwarming dishes and on weekends, a steal of a mezze brunch with a family-style spread at $30 per person. Green shouka-quiles — mash-up of two of the best breakfast dishes ever: Mexican chilaquiles and Middle Eastern shakshuka — is damn smart: house pita chips crispy in tomatillo sauce with scrambled eggs, feta and zhough. Lulu deviled eggs are a house favorite, filled with labneh-whipped egg yolks, dusted in za’atar spices. Black garlic hummus in maitake mushrooms and black garlic molasses, plus roasted halloumi cheese with apple butter, taste of California winter.
// 1019 Camelia Street, Berkeley; www.luluberkeley.com
Ethiopian Comfort: Mela Bistro, Oakland
Conveniently located off BART in downtown Oakland, Mela Bistro opened September 2019 pre-pandemic and thankfully survived. Gracious chef Adiam Tsegaye (who hails from Tigray, Ethiopia) branches out beyond merely traditional Ethiopian food. Don’t worry: her injera is as spongy and perfect as it should be with heartwarming classics like lentils-based misir wot or tibs in all forms, meat to veggies. But she also offers less common seafood dishes and the likes of turmeric chicken skewers, mitmita-spiced tuna tartare or roasted pepper berbere-spiced hummus. Fish entrees shine, namely asa wat fish goulash, featuring wild-caught cod fish with onion, garlic, ginger, cumin, berbere spice mix and olive oil. Spicy and silky, it’s sheer comfort scooped up with injera.
// 35 Grand Avenue, Oakland; https://melabistro.com
Korean Deli & All the Tofu: Joodooboo, Oakland
Open January 2022, chef Steve Joo and business partner Shige Kobayashi’s new Korean deli is centered around tofu and banchan snacks. Joodooboo is a sunny, white-tiled Oakland space, takeout only with weekly subscriptions. Named after the Korean word for tofu (dooboo) plus Joo’s name, he studied the art of tofu in Korea. Banchan sides are needed for flavor, acid and heat contrast, while 8 or 12-ounce blocks of silky tofu can be sliced over rice with house Joodooboo sauce (soy, vinegar, scallion, shallots, sesame oil) or fried up at home. Banchan ingredients are sourced from local farms; changing options include Napa cabbage kimchi “geotjeoli,” bintje potatoes with fava greens and green garlic, or oyster mushrooms and Swiss chard in perilla seeds and scallions. Though based on farmers market seasonality, there’s always something fermented, stewed, pickled and a kimchi. Offerings are simple and pure but that’s what works.
// 4201 Market Street, Oakland; www.joodooboo.co
WHERE TO DRINK
Quality Cocktail Bar: Low Bar, Oakland
Opening March 2021 in pandemic, Low Bar is one of the better new bars I’ve been to in Oakland in years, thanks to quality cocktails from co-owner Daniel Paez and team (food is from co-owner/chef Matt Meyer, which I haven’t tried). Drinks aren’t complicated yet complex enough to be interesting, going blessedly beyond basics, an issue many an East Bay bar suffers from. I tasted intriguing twists on classics like a Last Word with a poblano pepper-infusion, or house delights like subtle, herbaceous Shiso Lovely (spelt and triticale grain vodka, blanc vermouth and shiso tincture) or The Dimond Canyon (St. George Terroir Gin and Basil eau de vie, Genepy des Alpes, galia melon-infused mezcal).
// 2300 Webster Street, Oakland; www.lowbaroakland.com
Tiki Magic: Tiki Tom’s, Walnut Creek
Walnut Creek’s legendary dive bar has long been called Tiki Tom’s but had little to do with tiki until its recent impressive remodel, opening summer 2021. The space utterly transports, the kind of haven tiki fanatics hunt for. Unfortunately, the few drinks I tried were all too sweet or one-note, lacking in complexity or balance the best tiki bars and classic cocktail recipes bring (case in point, Smokin Bamboo’s barely-there mezcal drowns in mango juice with a hint of allspice, tasting like amped juice — and where is the orgeat?) But there is the delightful offering of classic pineapple Dole Whip (with a dark rum float, if you prefer), bites and an atmosphere worth lingering in if you’re in Walnut Creek.
// 1535 Olympic Blvd., Walnut Creek; https://tikitoms.co
