If there’s one place people who live in San Francisco love to hate the most, it’s Fisherman’s Wharf. Unlike some other tourist destinations, like Alcatraz and Coit Tower, that can take a while to inspire cynicism, just a mention of this waterfront neighborhood induces eye rolls and contempt from recent transplants and natives alike. Somewhere along the way, it became “cool” to think that Fisherman’s Wharf was decidedly not cool.
To be fair, that much is true: Fisherman’s Wharf is not cool. But something doesn’t need to be “cool” to be “lovable” (or at least that’s what I tell myself every time I go on a date). What Fisherman Wharf lacks in swank and style, it makes up for tenfold with its old school SF charm, local fisherman, delicious seafood (thank you local fisherman), stunning views, and friendly sea lions. And that’s just the beginning.
In April, when we were still sheltering in place, I decided to walk to Fisherman’s Wharf to see what it would look and feel like during the apocalypse. I knew that this was probably (hopefully) the one time in my life I’d be able to wander the usually crowded cobblestone streets and be almost completely alone, but I was still surprised by how eerie it was. Not Tom-Cruise-in-an-empty-Times-Square-Vanilla-Sky eerie, but close.
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The streets and sidewalks were empty. Pier 39 was barricaded off. All of the souvenir shops that make their money selling sweatshirts to tourists unable to grasp that June in San Francisco is like November in Wisconsin had their metal grates pulled down and locked. Even the seagulls weren’t hanging around since no one was dropping scraps of food for them to scavenge.
One of the few places that was open was the Buena Vista Cafe, where I ordered an Irish coffee to-go (a double, of course) just to feel somewhat normal again. It wasn’t quite the same in a paper cup instead of a stemmed glass mug, and the whiskey came in the form of airplane bottles that I had to add myself once I was outside, but still, there was something comforting about the fact that even at the beginning of a pandemic when everyone was sheltering-in-place, I could still warm my bones with an iconic SF cocktail while taking in views of the Bay.
Before I go further, I will confess that part of my love of Fisherman’s Wharf is steeped in nostalgia. When I was nine years old, we lived just up the road on Russian Hill and I spent many Saturdays walking down to Pier 39 to play video games at the arcade, count change for sweets at the candy store, ride the carousel (always on a horse that goes up and down, never on a bench), and sit in the audience of the pop-up magic shows praying I’d be brought up to help out with a trick. So, yes, my affection for the neighborhood is linked to those childhood memories, but do we have to stop liking candy and video games and carousel rides and magic shows just ‘cause we’re grown up? I’m going with “no.”
Of course, we’re in pandemic times, so right now Pier 39’s arcade is closed and there aren’t any men pulling rabbits out of hats, but you can still buy all kinds of candy (or better yet a tub of freshly made donuts from Trish’s Mini Donuts). And, after months of closure, the hand-painted carousel featuring San Francisco landmarks is spinning round and round once again.
Perhaps best of all, though tourists are slowly starting to return to the area, it’s not nearly as crowded as usual (“thanks” in part to the fact that the F-line streetcars aren’t running). That means you’ll be able to easily find an outdoor table to enjoy your clam chowder in a sourdough bread bowl from Boudin Bakery, snag a reservation to eat pier-to-plate seafood by the water at Scoma’s, or grab some In-N-Out and/or Krispy Kreme (if that’s what your heart desires) without waiting in a long line.
Don’t worry: Fisherman’s Wharf isn’t only about stuffing food in your face (is that a thing people worry about?). The Musical Stairs at Pier 39 (à la Tom Hanks in Big) are waiting for you to play a tune, the Aquarium of the Bay is open for “fin to face” interactions with over 20,000 local marine animals, and the famous sea lions are eager to see humans for whom they can show off.
You can also get a two-for-one on tourist experience at which people scoff because Ghirardelli Square is just up the hill. The public square (and former home to Ghirardelli Chocolate’s headquarters) is also emptier than usual, which means you won’t have to wait in a long line for a hot fudge sundae from the Original Ghirardelli Ice Cream and Chocolate Shop or to enjoy dim sum on Palette Tea House’s outdoor patio. San Francisco Brewing Company’s outdoor beer garden is also open for craft beer, cocktails, and pub food. Okay, fine, so maybe these places are mostly about stuffing food in your face. Sounds good to me!
I guess the trick to enjoying Fisherman’s Wharf even though you live in San Francisco and you’re not “supposed” to comes down to a couple of things: an appreciation for local seafood, an affinity for sourdough (sure you made your own during quarantine, but let the professionals take over now), and — the most important thing of all — the ability, much like your nine-year-old self, to not take yourself so seriously. Struggling a little with that last one? I’ve found a double Irish coffee really helps.
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