These six newcomers (or new menus) cover the gamut, from Mexican tortas (sandwiches) to neighborhood Salvadoran, with bagels and cafes in the mix. Alongside this month’s full restaurant reviews — Birch & Rye, Nari, ROOH SF , Table Culture Provisions — these newbies are worth visiting (as always, I’ve vetted, visited or ordered from each place reviewed):
Torta Time: Barrio North Beach
When the second Barrio opened in Ghirardelli Square July 2021, I sang its praises as Mexican food destination (with quality cocktails and stunning views) locals can get behind in a touristy area (plus Cinco de Mayo fun ahead on May 5th, including margarita stand and tequila/mezcal tasting booth). Back at the original Barrio in North Beach, the divey, sports bar vibe with great Mexican food remains. Seven rotating beers (and one cider) on draft includes local fun like Laughing Monk mango gose or Russian River limited edition Happy Hops IPA, plus a few basic wines. The food focus has moved away from the blue corn tortillas and quesadilla-like quekas (all still at the Ghirardelli location), though tacos, ceviche, nachos and the California burrito (with fries) remain in North Beach.
North Beach-only menu additions hit this April, including cheddar and jack-laden queso dip and four tortas (served with tots or fries and house chipotle ketchup), inspired by their series of sold-out torta pop-ups that kept the business alive in the worst of COVID. It’s hard to resist the beef birria cheesesteak dipped in consomme with pickled jalapeno and onions, although I could have used more of the queso and horseradish aioli. Panko-fried halibut torta is a hefty fish sandwich in housemade tartar and spicy cabbage slaw. Both are messy but utterly gratifying with a beer.
// 1609 Powell Street, barriosfnorthbeach.com
“Secret” Salvadoran: Manitas Cafe, NoPa
Quietly open at the end of 2016, Manitas Cafe has been one of my neighborhood go-tos not just serving heartwarming Mexican but “real deal” Salvadoran food, including on-point pupusas with curtido (lightly fermented cabbage relish) for contrast. Friendly servers, the slightly too sweet but cinnamon-y warmth of their Mexican hot chocolate, vibrant teals and peachy pink colors, plus Selena photos lining the colorful parklet, touch my heart. This is one of countless hidden gems that line San Francisco outside the celebrated fray. In the casual, order-at-the-counter space, grab a Cubano or California BEAR-rito burrito loaded with carnitas and fries all day. Brunch is delightful at a parklet table with a Michelada as you fill up on those pupusas and irresistible chicken mole chilaquiles (“Mama Maria’s World Famous 26-ingredient Chicken Mole Sauce”) over fried tortillas with avocado, crema, rice and an egg. I reluctantly have been dragging my feet writing about this one. Secret’s out.
// 2078 Hayes Street, www.manitascafesf.com
Brunch at 10 year Neighborhood Favorite: Cassava, Outer Richmond
Since 2012, Cassava has been an Outer Richmond neighborhood treasure. As they just turn 10, they have an exciting move this summer in the works to North Beach with a bigger space that will allow more to experience husband-wife owners, Kris Toliao and Yuka Ioroi’s warm welcome and international dishes. The remaining months are a good time to say hurrah to the original spot with its sunny parklet and sidewalk seating and new 3-course prix fixe dinner menu. Brunch newcomers are truffles and burrata avocado toast, lamb ribs curry, their popular fried chicken and favorites like a liege waffle with pitch-perfect scrambled eggs or nurturing Japanese breakfast spread, including furikake-dusted koshihikari rice with miso black cod or salmon, all lovely paired with a bubbly glass of 2020 Sifer Wines Goreti Pet Nat or low proof cocktail. Save room for silky black sesame panna cotta in almond streusel, mint and berries for dessert.
// 3519 Balboa Street, www.cassavasf.com
Buckwheat Black Sesame Bagels, Y’all: Midnite Bagel
Though there are online order-ahead and delivery options, Midnite Bagel has been a farmers market favorite (currently at the Ferry Building, Sunday Outer Sunset Farmer’s Markets and these cafes and shops) since 2020, made in a Dogpatch commissary space. But their Inner Sunset shop is coming any day now (they’re hiring, if you want to apply). Founder Nick Beitcher was the lead baker at Tartine Bakery for five years, giving a tangy chew to his whole-grain sourdough bagels. They do schmear/cream cheese right (love the scallion with sea salt), will offer bagel sandwiches, coffee and the bagels we’ve already been chowing down on at the markets. Interesting ones include poppy, sesame and buckwheat-black sesame, though I find myself drawn to the savory onion bialy.
// 646 Irving Street, www.midnitebagel.com
BIPOC Garden Cafe… Next to the 101: Hey Neighbor Cafe, Portola
In the neighborhood I dubbed “Unsung Portola” back in 2008, Hey Neighbor Cafe opened summer 2021 — a block from old school diner breakfast fave, Breakfast at Tiffany’s (which lost a bit of its scruffy charm since remodeling but still serves the same comforting food). In a city rife with world-class coffee shops — and a Third Wave Coffee pioneer — I usually call out only the most unusual. Though one of hundreds of places to get superb coffee in our 7x7 mile city, owners and neighborhood residents Dee Derisse and Natasha Podogova (both artists and filmmakers) honor BIPOC culture via featured artists on the walls, bean sources and partnering with also black-owned Rize Up Sourdough on their popular toast offerings, namely that savory, slightly sweet black sesame toast in butter and cinnamon sugar. Adorable Boots the cat is a permanent cafe fixture with their own Insta page.
Here, I sip well-made espresso drinks using beans from Monterey’s Captain + Stoker, admire their choice of Feve Chocolates — one of SF’s best chocolatiers — for truffle and espresso pairings and reveled in their smart use of minimal outdoor space right against a freeway (!) Vine covered doorways, dim interior, neighboring garden with seating tucked here and there, make it feel like a secret hobbit garden: unexpected, welcoming, a win not just for Portola but for the City.
// 500 Church Street, https://heyneighborcafe.com
Fresh Fruit, Milk & Coffee (All Together!) Drinks: Not Latte, Inner SunsetJust open on Irving Street in February 2022, Not Latte is a sunny, joyous little storefront, down to its understated awning compared to the loud ones around it, and its cheery staff. This is just drinks to-go, but it’s a unique newcomer focused on coffee and milk with fresh fruits. Choose oat or whole milk, strong or regular coffee (they use Caffe Umbria’s Gusto Crema Artisanal Italian blend) and a single fruit or fruit combo. I’m partial to durian and banana, fresh and vibrant. But there’s also pineapple, mango and avocado plus a coconut served in a coconut. What a delightfully different drink shop in a neighborhood packed with boba and tea shops.
// 2142 Irving Street, www.notlatte.co
