Communal eating is back. Sharing a table with a stranger hasn’t been this popular since the lavish high-society parties of the ’70s in New York City.
It’s like Rothschild’s Surrealist Ball, except that invitations are sent through an online mailing list; there are hoodies in place of masquerade masks; and it’s more “mouth wide open” than Eyes Wide Shut.
The fleeting, serendipitous connection made with a stranger over a meal is a titillating idea.
It seems unlikely at first. The city’s wealth of food-delivery services, meal plans and food trucks makes it all too easy for us to avoid socializing with others and instead to nest deeply in our beds with Netflix. But swing the pendulum to the other side, and communal dining offers something essentially San Francisco, a home to many talented chefs and their creative innovations.
Whom did I meet at these bustling new spaces? Visitors from out of town, friends on a night out, a slew of software engineers, start-up founders and passionate foodies—and you’re probably one of them if you’re reading this. The fleeting, serendipitous connection made with a stranger over a meal is a titillating idea.
While the events are not necessarily easy on the wallet, taxes and gratuity are now typically included, and most of the events are BYOB.
“For me it’s about sharing a unique moment in time that stems from the concept ‘ichigo ichie,’ which translates to ‘one time, one meeting’.”
At Ichido SF chef Geoffrey Reed convinced 30 people to try milt for the first time. He described it as “male caviar.” Some people just picked out the word “caviar” and went for it. You could see some processing it in their minds and watching others before trying it. And one actually exclaimed, “Oooooh,” once they realized what it was (yep, it’s fish semen).
“For me it’s about sharing a unique moment in time that stems from the concept ichigo ichie, which translates to ‘one time, one meeting.’” Reed told me, “We should cherish the ingredients in their seasonality, the people in their diversity and the place in its nuances as they all come together to create a memory or moment that will never be replicated.”
At Lazy Bear, arguably the most well-known Michelin-rated communal dining experience in the city, you may end up with over 18 dishes, all perhaps a little more than a bite-size amount of food. Before each dish, the chef will explain a little about the history and the technique used in preparing it.
If you’re aiming for more of an intimate experience, Naked Kitchen invites you to the home of Ko Son, who has been hosting a variety of talented chefs in his quaint Victorian house in the Mission District. You can even sit at the chef’s table to get in on the action. The latest event features a five-course Hawaiian-style dinner by Jordan Keao, owner and chef of ’āina, a popular brunch spot in the Dogpatch.
Marigny Social Club offers a more casual vibe, true to its roots as a fundraiser dinner for Burning Man. Caleb Cook, the founder, tells us that “dinner with conversation” is the only food trend he cares about in the long run.
People seem to enjoy shelling out quite a bit of money for breaking (really great) bread together.
The next event at Marigny is based on the film Spirited Away, and tickets will be subsidized for members of the art community.
Feastly is also home to many of these events, such as dinners that come with marijuana pairings or a blindfolded meditation experience.
People seem to enjoy shelling out quite a bit of money for breaking (really great) bread together. When else do diners get to see back of the house exposed, where all the staff is essentially front of the house? Or better yet, talk to the team behind the food?
At the very least, you get to walk away with a satiating meal comparable to any other four- or five-star establishments. At best, you go home with new friends.
Hey! The Bold Italic recently launched a podcast, This Is Your Life in Silicon Valley. Check out the full season or listen to the episode below featuring Aarti Shahani, technology reporter at NPR. More coming soon, so stay tuned!
