As many San Francisco restaurants struggle with half-empty tables due to higher costs, staffing issues, and the so-called “doom loop,” a local restaurant group has bucked the trend by opening two new spots with packed tables since day one. Are these cutting-edge boundary-pushers? No. They’re traditional American-Mexican and Italian formulas.
Duggan family siblings John and Elena bring a wealth of experience to the table: They now operate the legendary Original Joe’s, an 87-year-old Italian chain with locations in North Beach, Daly City and West Portal. Today I’m diving into another Duggan creation, Elena’s, a Mexican-American spot that debuted earlier this year in West Portal, where the siblings grew up.
Elena’s is both modern and refreshingly old school, honoring Elena’s daughters’ Mexican heritage. The lofty space was packed and buzzing post-opening, with four-hour waits and celebrities like Joe Montana. Giant booths, candle-lit ficus trees, skylights, a gas-lanterned doorway, and an open tiled kitchen set the stage for fajitas, chile relleno, and margaritas.
Elena’s imparts almost LA vibes, reminding me of 1930s legends I grew up with like El Cholo, but with better food. Yet this is pure SF, from the scene to the all-ages mix of families, 20-and-30-somethings, and the sweet elderly crowd. This truly reflects West Portal, a neighborhood virtually unchanged since the 1970s, like much of this half of SF, often left out of discussions of the City.
Chef Sergio Santiago helms the kitchen, and of course you’ll want some of his starters: Guacamole, equites (Mexican street corn), tortilla soup, ceviche, and a crudo like hamachi in black garlic ponzu, serranos and black sesame. Or chile con queso loaded with green chiles and chorizo. Basic-sounding ahi tostadas are one of the most flavorful, fun bites: mini-tostadas loaded with the tuna, Sriracha aioli, avocado, fried leeks and black sesame. But I need a group to tackle all this hearty happiness.
Entrees and taco platters get even heftier. Among seven different tacos, I’m happy gobernador tacos are on the menu, which I eat regularly when consulting in tequila in Jalisco, Mexico, loaded with grilled shrimp, melted cheese, and salsa verde. Elena’s chile Colorado is a nurturing guajillo pork stew, as is their pork pozole. Another highlight is tamales with your choice of pork or rajas (poblano peppers), topped with crema, queso fresco, and avocado salsa. As with many dishes, tamales arrive with rice and refried pinto beans. Needless to say, you won’t leave hungry.
Drinks please, from a range of tequilas, mezcals, Mexican-inspired cocktails and Margaritas. Marg standouts are a frozen Aperol Margarita and Spicy Watermelon Margarita with Chareau aloe liqueur.
Desserts charm, from churros to Mexican icebox cake with lime cream, the latter my #1 given its tart, icy similarities to my beloved key lime pie. Café de olla cheesecake showcases an SF legend the Duggan family revived, Zanze’s Cheesecake, in a special Mexican-spiced version only at Elena’s.
Generosity of portions and spirit permeate Elena’s, with a non-trendy, traditional approach that remains current vs. dated. In a city grappling with post-pandemic challenges, the Duggan family’s commitment to quality and community ensures that their restaurants remain a beacon for the next generation of San Franciscans.
// Elena’s, 255 West Portal Avenue, www.elenasmexican.com
Virginia Miller is a San Francisco-based food & drink writer.
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