I was never into the Dry January concept — or “feast or famine,” all-or-nothing habits in general. As someone who grew up in a teetotaling household, never went through a party/drinking phase and drank minimally in my 20s (because I couldn’t afford the cocktails I loved), an intense career involving daily drink has only been sustainable these past 15 years due to moderation. I have my moments of excess but slow and steady has become a lifestyle. However, I’m so steeped in tasting and judging thousands of the best annually in every drink category that I cannot have a meal without craving and thinking about drink pairings. Trying to take a couple drinking nights off a week used to be tough with nothing complex and delicious enough to fill in the gap. That is swiftly changing.
As I see mental health experts like Sylvia Brafman Mental Health Center on their January 13 Facebook post recommend “mindful drinking” all year-round instead of Dry January for longterm health and balance, I feel confirmed. This was much harder to do in years past when there were few good non-alcoholic options for those of us who cannot sacrifice excellence in any category from coffee to beer. Even for the average drinker, notable non-alcoholic drink options are a huge win. The products coming out just keep getting better — and in the last two years, there has been a massive jump forward in non-alcoholic wines, spirits and cocktails.
Here are 7 of the very best out of many dozens tasted this past year.
NON-ALCOHOLIC SPIRITS & BOTTLED “COCKTAILS”
1. For Bitter For Worse
Started by Shelley Elkovich in Portland, Oregon, since 2020, For Bitter For Worse may just be my overall favorite bottled non-alcoholic cocktails thus far. The balance of acid, bitterness, fruit, vibrancy and complexity — as well as robust body — equals or surpasses many an alcoholic cocktail. I actually crave and want to keep drinking each of these bottlings. Three initial flavors — Smoky №56, Eva’s Spritz and Saskatoon — all delight. There is no slouch here, though the piney, Doug Fir, berry bitter of the Saskatoon may be my favorite, if forced to choose. I’ll take all three, thank you.
// https://forbitterforworse.com
2. Three Spirit Non-Alcoholic Botanical “Spirit”U.K.-based Three Spirit is not only plant-based, “ethically sourced and environmentally packaged,” but designed by bartenders, which means complexity and nuance play a part in each — as does deliciousness. Herbs and plants make each drink taste almost healthy, while the flavors evoke interesting cocktails. Initial bottlings are the Livener, Social Elixir and Nightcap. From the licorice, valerian root, lemon balm, black pepper and turmeric melange of Nightcap (a nightcap that could actually aid in sleep?), to the energetic hit of guayusa, guava leaf, hibiscus, schisandra and berries in the Livener, the entire line is a win for non-alcoholic “spirits” that drink beautifully on their own.
// https://us.threespiritdrinks.com/collections
3. Ghia
Founded by Melanie Masarin, who grew up with girlhood summers in the Mediterranean and Aperitivo culture, crafted Ghia with ready-made aperitivo in mind. With a Riesling grape base, floral, herbal, citrus complexity unfolds with yuzu, fig, elderflower, orange peel, lemon balm for texture, and a robust, lingering bitterness from gentian root that amari lovers like myself crave. Vibrant orange, it stands out in a glass or on a shelf — but I just might like the zippy, effervescent kick of their canned Le Spritz aperitif even better than the original (available in packs).
// https://drinkghia.com/products/ghia
4. Wilfred’s Non-Alcoholic Aperitif
Spritz-ready Wilfred’s Non-Alcoholic Aperitif tastes best on its own, undiluted on the rocks with an orange slice, sprig of rosemary or the like. It will appeal to Aperol fans on the mainstream side or drinkers of aperitivos like Select Aperitivo, etc. With its blend of Japanese hibiscus, bitter orange, rhubarb, English rose, clove, even rosemary from founder Chris Wilfred Hughes’ mother’s garden, for me Wilfred’s subtle bittersweetness gets lost in soda or tonic, though all work well with it. On the rocks, I savor its layers and at only 21 calories per serving, it’s a guilt-free sipper that feels like I’m drinking an Italian aperitivo.
// www.wilfredsdrinks.com
Non-Alcoholic Drinks
1. Null WinesRecently launched Null Wines has been, thus far, the most impressive non-alcoholic wine line I’ve yet tasted. Inaugural “wines” are Sparkling Rosé made from Silvaner and Portugieser grapes; Blanc Burgunder Pinot Blanc/Gris blend; and lightly carbonic Prickly Red, made with Tempranillo and Syrah. Founded by Catherine Diao and Dorothy Munholland, produced by winemakers and dealcoholization experts in Europe, Null wines are fermented and produced as actual wines, then dealcoholized via vacuum distillation to preserve aroma, texture/body and flavors. More than any no-alcohol wines so far, Null wines have “scratched that pairing itch” on my rare nights off, tasting like quality wine with acid, tannins, texture, layered flavor, shocklingy gratifying. Even better, the former two are from 2020 vintages grown in wine regions I love: Rheinhessen and Nahe, Germany, for the whites, and Tierra de Toledo, Spain, for the red.
// https://nullwines.com
2. Sovi Non-Alcoholic Sparkling RoséI’m proud to say the best non-alcoholic wine I’ve yet tasted (and no, that’s not an oxymoron in today’s increasing non-alcoholic — aka ‘Sober Curious’ — movement) is from a local, Napa-based company. Sovi Sparkling Rosé is startlingly good, launched this spring by sommelier Julia Littauer and Alex Littauer. Given their industry palates, this tastes like a proper rosé, made from sustainably grown California tempranillo grapes (4-pack of 8 oz. cans: $24). Sovi’s acidic, crisp profile sings with notes of tart cherry and pink grapefruit, actually produced as wine, then “dealcoholized” while maintaining wine texture and flavor. I was skeptical , having tasted pretty forgettable non-alcoholic wines up till now … until I tried Sovi. A game-changer.
// https://drinksovi.com/products/sparkling-rose
3. Kally by Something ElseKally non-alcoholic wines were recently released by Something Else, headquartered in Portola Valley, CA, made from organic ingredients (teas, fruits, herbs, spices). The initial four (Jasmine Spice, Orchard Sage, Vanilla Smoke, Berry Fennel) contain caffeinated teas, so this adds robust tannins and texture, each with balanced acidity. But for chronic insomniacs like me and my husband, even drinking them at lunch is pushing it. This and a sometimes large dose of residue if you don’t shake up the bottle before another pour were my struggles with the bottlings. But taste-wise, I appreciate the complex flavor profiles and sleek labels. Jasmine Spice goes light and floral, warmed by spices with its Chardonnay grapes and organic jasmine and black teas peppered with organic cinnamon, ginger, cardamom, allspice, clove, black pepper. Herbaceous, tangy Orchard Sage works well with seafood and lighter dishes, layered with organic apple, white and elderflower teas, chardonnay grapes, sage oil.
// https://drinkkally.com
