Brunch? Obviously.
By Virginia Miller
Nothing celebrates the Misson’s Latin soul like its food, from Sonoran hot dog or fruit carts lining the streets to the wealth of taquerias and Mexican markets.
Among our newer Mexican eateries, many are hearty, hefty, classic (example: the new Tacos del Barrio). That’s what makes new, female-run El Mil Amores refreshing. It’s Mexican owned and legit, authentic food but with fresh, current touches. Chef-owner Andrea Becerra hails from Mexico City, thoughtfully making all her salsas and changing up sauces and soups. The restaurant is open daytime only with breakfast-all-day, yet plenty of lunchtime options you can takeout and heat up for dinner. In fact, it seems heavy on the takeout here, with all but one of my visits being takeout to try more dishes.
A dark green exterior with a neon pink door houses El Mil Amores (“the thousand loves”), opened May 2023 in the former Dona Tere’s Market, which I used to frequent when I worked around the corner as a girl 20 years ago. I don’t even recognize the now bright white, sleek, but relaxed new space from its dim, divey former glory.
Over the counter, there’s a neon sign of the 1954 film, El Mil Amores, starring legendary Pedro Infante, while classic Mexican movies show on a screen that rolls down from the ceiling. As a classic film buff since childhood weaned on old movies by my mother, I’ve not seen the restaurant’s namesake film, but it’s so my era.
I’m an even greater music lover. Classic, old school Mexican music of multiple categories lie among my countless categorical music loves. So I actually have multiple Infante albums, one of Mexico’s great ranchera singers. From Vicente Fernández to Amalia Mendoza, I relish in the romance and stylistic-yet-rootsy heart of this traditional music that predates the Mexican Revolution.
El Mil Amores’ space already feels cloaked in historic spirit, yet current, contemporary. The dining room’s spare, clean lines suggest a youthful Mission District now, while a painting of horses and classic Mexican films nod to rusticity. Becerra tributes her grandma’s recipes in her own, confirming the substance behind the surface.
But it’s the truly delicious, standout Mexican food in a neighborhood literally lined with regional Mexican food, that makes El Mil Amores an exciting but humble new opening. While I savored this sauce in a pork special, huevos en ahogada is a regular menu offering that showcases Becerra’s vibrant green chile/tomatillo sauce layered over not-greasy chorizo and eggs, with a side of better-than-the-usual rice and beans and handmade tortillas.
Tender chilaquiles get a lot of love on review sites, and rightly so. Even accompanying black beans are no throwaway: made with care, they’re seasoned just right. I may love chilaquiles at spots like Barrio more, but this is a great rendition. But this a menu to dig deeper into. For contrast, there are oh-so-Mexican sweet breakfast dishes, like tres leches pancakes or concha French toast made with the Mexican pan dulce (sweet bread) in strawberries and cream during the summer season.
Unexpectedly, enchiladas Suizas (“Swiss” enchiladas, meaning cheese included), uber-soft with chicken and Oaxacan cheese in a green, tart tomatillo sauce, is maybe my favorite dish here. It’s melt-in-the-mouth perfection. It has been awhile since I was this taken with “plain old” enchiladas. These aren’t plain. They are addictive. As is everything I’ve tried here thus far. Next time I want to try one of her Mexi-burgers. The Hawaiana burger is loaded with pineapple, Oaxacan cheese and ham, for one.
You can feel the smiles of Becerra’s grandmother in El Mil Amores’ heartwarming dishes.
// 2780 21st Street, www.yelp.com/biz/el-mil-amores-restaurant-san-francisco — Hours are currently 7am-5pm Monday and Friday, 7am-3pm Tuesday through Wednesday, 9am-5pm Saturday and Sunday
Virginia Miller is a San Francisco-based food & drink writer.
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