I was never much a fan of ever-packed brunch spot Stacks with its mediocre food. But I don’t wish any space to sit empty and this corner spot in hotter-than-ever Hayes Valley is a key one. On August 11, 2022, the space came to life again as Hazie’s from Hat Trick Hospitality team (The Brixton, Rambler). The name is rough, even a bit cheesy, but the space is dramatically reborn via ROY Hospitality Design: uncovered windows and open space make it look far bigger than before. A curved, sweeping bar, colorful artwork in nooks and plenty of spots for couples and groups, make it feel like the large neighborhood hangout Hayes Valley was missing. Gazing over Patricia’s Green, it takes in the bustle outside, feeling like a party inside at peak hours.
The executive chef is Joey Altman — of the James Beard Award-winning show Bay Cafe — a veteran chef who has cooked with legends like Emeril Lagasse and Jeremiah Tower historically, cooked from Lyon, France, to Cambridge, MA, and opened former restaurants like Miss Pearl’s Jam House in Oakland and Wild Hare in Menlo Park. At many events over a decade ago, I enjoyed his chefs’ blues band and engaging personality. So it’s good to see him in the kitchen again. Altman is going crowd-pleasing at Hazie’s, yet with welcome twists, not just typical combos. You could dub this elevated pub fare or drinking food… that doesn’t require booze (non-alcoholic options are here, too).
Oaxacan cheese fundido called immediately. Sitting down with longtime friends, it was one of the first things we ordered. Loaded with pork carnitas and accompanied by warm house tortillas, salsa macha drizzled over the top of the oozing cheese is the crowning touch. This “salsa” from Veracruz, Mexico, is actually a rich chile oil doused with dried chiles, garlic and nuts (often peanuts or pumpkin seeds). I first fell in love with salsa macha in Mexico and have not been annoyed to see it trend the last couple years. At this point, it’s officially “hot,” as I’ve had it on dozens of menus locally and recently started to see it peek up in other U.S. cities.
Balancing out more cheese and bread — pretzel knots dipped in truffle cheese sauce — we also ordered a taste of California summer: heirloom tomatoes, corn, basil, housemade ricotta and puffed rice salad. That bright and breezy profile continued with now-ubiquitous crudo, a local halibut in Sicilian lemon vinaigrette marked by slices of avocado and ruby grapefruit. While pretty straightforward compared to many of the creative crudos in town, it’s pleasant and offers a lighter contrast to heartier fare.
Hummus and guacamole — yes, together — was another just-different-enough shared plate, flanked by both sesame bread and chips (felt like it should be one or other, ideally the chips). I could have used more of each of the dip’s welcome accents of Calabrian chili oil, dill and fresh shaved horseradish, but nevertheless, it was devoured quickly.
Dining there just a week after opening, service was friendly and fun, with the expected pacing pains. In this case, a pet peeve: the five-ish appetizers we ordered after we sat down all came immediately one after the other, overcrowding the table; impossible to dig into before some started to get cold. We had to ask to slow it down with the remainder of the plates. Pacing is a common growing pain, especially at a place already this crowded.
Large format cocktails in striking crystal dispensers keep the festive vibe up and rosy-pink, tequila-based Go Ask Her was actually the standout cocktail of the night in terms of flavor and balance, though batched. Serving 3–4 people, blanco tequila is mixed with strawberry syrup, orgeat, agave and lime juice, exuding tart strawberry without veering too sweet. Modern day classics like Naked & Famous (mezcal, Yellow Chartreuse, lime, Aperol) and a straightforward Love Your Neighbor (Madre Mezcal, orgeat, lemon, agave syrup, Thai basil) don’t push any boundaries but go down easy. Though I appreciate LA’s Amass Gin, the Uh Huh Honey cocktail ran too sweet, the gin infused with honeydew and cucumber, mixed with Dolin Blanc Vermouth, velvet falernum and Veev Açaí. I couldn’t get past a couple sips.
Hat Trick beverage director Victor Pichardo has rounded a lot of drink options, including a decent wine list veering towards California, Oregon, France and Spain, with local craft beer greats on draft like Laughing Monk (their rotating IPAs) or Standard Deviant, as well as modern beer classics like Allagash White from Portland, Maine. In keeping with the (much welcome) trend, nonalcoholic options include NA beer, prosecco and NA cocktails like a Cosnopolitan or Nogroni.
But let’s get back to the food. Unexpectedly, fried chicken wings in an irresistible red chili-ginger-lime glaze — contrasted by a little carrot-daikon salad — ended up being my favorite dish. Sure, this is just “basic” bar food in theory, but the bold flavor, tenderness of the chicken and crisp of the skin were all on-point, even transporting me back to my months in Southeast Asia in its vibrancy. I could have bogarted the whole plate for myself. Ideal drinking food, indeed.
Altman’s smart touches on more common dishes are what keeps Hazie’s a step above other pub fare-type places. Case in point: a braised beef brisket sandwich in mustard aioli gets zhooshed up with Sicilian pepperoncini salsa. In contrast, another element that works here is execution of dishes like sauteed salmon over Brentwood corn risotto dotted with Coke Farm cherry tomatoes. While a somewhat straightforward entree, the fish is perfectly silky, nearly medium rare, rich with skin, creamy risotto and sheer comfort. Meaty (grilled pork chop for two with cheesy rice grits) and veg (vegetable ravioli in housemade ricotta and roasted tomato butter) entrees are also on offer.
At this point, I was too full for dessert. A warm, summery stone fruit crisp melting blueberry gelato on top begged to be had at breakfast with espresso the next morning, a preferable dessert for me over the goopy dulce de Leche semifreddo in coconut-cacao nib crunch. I could have just had a digestivo of Cynar and called it a night. But rather than the boundary-pushing restaurants one can find in abundance in our innovative city, Hazie’s is about ease, camaraderie and a glowing space, inviting me to linger with dear friends for a round of dessert just a little longer.
// 501 Hayes Street, www.haziessf.com
