Whether you’re celebrating graduations, family reunions or birthday parties — or a first date if you’re lucky — Trader Vic’s is the Disneyland of Bay Area fine dining.
The History
Before we dive into the fun stuff, such as pupus and drinks served in boats, I’m going to give you a little history of the famous chain.
Originating in Oakland, California, the Polynesian-themed restaurant first opened its doors in 1934. At the height of the tiki-culture fad of the ’50s and ’60s, the restaurant soon became a chain with locations all over the country. In 1972, the original restaurant moved from Oakland to the Emeryville Marina, and today it currently overlooks the San Francisco Bay and is considered the flagship location.
Now this may seem like a tacky fad — a dated one at best — but it’s so much more than that. It may be because I grew up visiting this place on special occasions and gatherings, but it’s one of the last remaining pieces of themed-American-restaurant history that shows how fabulously tacky eateries make for a one-of-a-kind dining experience.
The restaurant stands at the end of a marina, shaded with large palms and other tropical plants. The dark cherry wood used in its architecture is warm and inviting. You’ll walk up a pebble walkway and immediately be greeted with a warm smile. The walls are decked out with memorabilia from the chain over the years as well as cute tropical floral patterns. It’s a more elegant Tiki Room, if you will.
How to Wait for a Table
If you’re dining without a reservation, you may have to wait a bit for a spot. This is the opportune time to pregame at the bar. Trader Vic’s is known mostly for its long drink menu, which includes beverages that are all centered on a playful tropical theme. The bar is abundant with varieties of rums and other liquors, and all their iconic cups and bowls for serving. The garnishes are fresh, and a faint smell of pineapple is always lingering.
It would be wise to start with a mai tai while you wait; it’s Trader Vic’s claim to fame. Perhaps you can nosh on their famous Cosmo Tidbits, a tasty sampler of ribs, crab rangoon and crispy prawns. Notice the abundance of Polynesian idols watching over you as you eat. (I’ve been told many times that these are all made up and have no resemblance to actual deities, but the chain claims to have collected its items from all over the Pacific Rim over the years.) While you’re getting good and buzzed, take a moment to soak everything in. It’s nearly impossible to not have fun in this atmosphere. You’re here to have a good time and eat delicious food, which is the next part of your journey.
How to Order
The dining room showcases one of the more interesting and unique traits of the restaurant: its Chinese oven. To paint more of a picture for you, it’s a piece of cookware that looks like a big pot surrounded by terra-cotta tiles. This oven sits in its own windowed room connected to the kitchen, so you can watch your food being cooked. Don’t be intimidated by the heat—I’ll touch back on that later.
Once you’re seated, it’s time to get more familiarized with the menu. Maybe order another drink? If you’re in the mood for something more fun and want to share, split a rum bowl. I’d recommend the Scorpion Bowl, “a festive concoction of rums, fruit juices and brandy with a whisper of almond, bedecked with a flower.” Even writing this makes me wish I had one. But if you don’t feel like sharing, I’d recommend a Zombie—“light and dark rums, grenadine and Curaçao.” So good. I had two of these at my last family get-together, and I almost forgot where I was.
Getting back to the menu, be sure to look at all of it, because it’s almost impossible to make a choice, as it’s all delicious. Trader Vic’s was one of the first chains to bring a fusion of cuisine to the American public. The Chinese oven is a big part of the menu. Whole ducks, ribs, beef and other meats are lowered into the oven for a good, long roast. Other items on the menu include a pick of curries, rice dishes and other traditional fare such as soups and salads. Between drinks and chitchat, you’ll be munching on some crackers with peanut butter made with coconut oil.
Put in an order of apps while you wait for your main course. Sometimes these take a while. I recommend the Lamb Chi Chi’s—they’re delicious salty, crunchy bits that would surpass any chip. Some other good snacks include but are not limited to Beef Cho Cho and Cheese Bings. For the main course, I’d say the filet is a pretty safe option, but the signature curry is definitely one to try. While most of the core menu stays the same, sometimes items are rotated, depending on the season. One of the first times I went to trader Vic’s, I was probably around 10 years old, and we had Crêpes Suzette for dessert, and I had never seen anything like it before. This may sound trivial to more experienced diners, but who eats like that every day?
After your meal ends, you may feel euphoric. Put down your extra-long straws, take the last sips of your mai tai, and rest your forks. Grab your complimentary fortune cookie with your tab, and maybe snag a commemorative cup on your way out.
Restaurants like Trader Vic’s aren’t around as much anymore, so definitely take the time to truly enjoy this historical gem.
