Deemed one of the Great Neighborhoods in America by the American Planning Association (APA), North Beach is one of the city’s most historic and beloved ’hoods. It has it all — history, character, nightlife, tourists and, of course, Italian food.
When you see the red, white and green flags evenly painted on light posts, you know you’re in North Beach. But do you know where to go? While the actual number of Italians living in North Beach has dwindled, there are still plenty of Italian eateries in the area. Choosing one can feel daunting, and choosing the wrong one can be disappointing. I’ll spare you the story about the time I got suckered into sitting down for the worst Italian meal of my life, just because the owner flattered me by picking my Calabrese heritage out of the crowd.
Don’t get suckered like me. Here’s a sampling of some must-mangia eateries in the neighborhood that are sure to leave you full and happy.
The Italian Homemade Company
With its steaming, bustling kitchen; shelves stocked with peppers and sauces; and fridge full of house-made pasta, you might just as well be in Italy. Casual and authentic, this cafe does pasta right, from pesto to Bolognese. Their gnocchi is not to be messed with, nor are their cassoni and Piadina flat-bread sandwiches. Enjoy a plate of homemade pasta at this quaint Columbus Street eatery (with a second location in Cow Hollow).
Il Casaro
There is plenty of pizza in North Beach. From Tony’s Pizza Napoletana to Tommaso’s Ristorante Italiano to Golden Boy Pizza to Capo’s Chicago Pizza, there’s a slice to satisfy every soul. But if you’re after a good Neapolitan pie in North Beach, don’t miss the family-owned Il Casaro Pizzeria & Mozzarella Bar. It’s as good as Tony’s, but without the wait.
Original U.S. Restaurant
I’m a third-generation Italian-American, and all three of these generations have enjoyed a meal at the Original U.S. Restaurant. It’s changed hands and locations several times over the years, but it’s an institution serving up classic Italian fare. Start with a bowl of pastina en brodo before moving on to the main course.
Il Pollaio
It translates to “the hen house,” and this modest homey cafe truly is. It might not have the most extensive menu in town, but what they do, they do right — and that’s roast chicken, potatoes, salad, sausages and even rabbit. This place can get packed with patrons, but it’s also packed with heart.
Sotto Mare Oysteria and Seafood
A classic (and usually crowded) spot for seafood, Sotto Mare is especially known for their sanddabs and San Francisco favorite, cioppino. You will have to find your dessert and Negronis elsewhere, but after an authentic meal here, you won’t mind.
Victoria Pastry Company and Stella Pastry & Cafe
As a kid, nothing brought me more joy than a trip to Victoria Pastry Company and getting to choose the cookies that we would take home in a box tied up with string. To this day, those little chewy almond cookies are still one of my favorites. Only a glass partition separates you from the authentic Italian pastry or cake of your choice. Whether it’s a cannoli or a princess cake at Victoria, or a slice of Stella’s signature Sacripantina, a visit to either of these establishments is pretty sweet.
Liguria Bakery
One of the oldest businesses in North Beach, Liguria Bakery opened in 1911 as a full-service bakery. Run by the same family since 1984, Liguria makes nothing but flavorful, fluffy focaccia bread, and they make it well.
Molinari & Sons
One of the oldest delis in America, Molinari’s has been making and slinging sausage and salame since it was founded in 1896. If you’re in North Beach and a classic Italian deli sandwich is what you desire, Molinari’s is the place to go. You’ll pick your bread, and they’ll pile it on. Take it to go and head to Washington Square Park for a picnic.
Trattoria Contadina
When I first moved to the city, I posted up at the bar here during brunch to write my holiday cards. I mentioned that I was new to the city and was welcomed with a Bloody Mary by the husband-and-wife owners. While they did a good brunch (sadly, no longer), they do an even better Italian dinner. A sign above the door tells patrons to leave their problems at the door, and with food this good and owners this sweet, that’s easy to do.
Fior d’Italia
It claims to be the oldest Italian restaurant in the country. The name translates to “flower of Italy,” and for the last 130 years, Fior d’Italia has been blooming at six different San Francisco locations. This elegant Italian eatery found a home on Mason Street and continues to delight with its traditional northern Italian fare.
Gelato Classico Italian
OK, so it’s hard to find a bad cup of gelato anywhere. But here is the scoop on the best cup in North Beach. Gelato Classico, located just outside of Washington Square on Union Street, can’t be beat. With countless creamy flavors to choose from, the patient staff will let you sample until you’re satisfied enough to make a choice. I recommend the coppa mista or stracciatella.
Photos courtesy of the author unless otherwise specified.
