For many of my San Franciscan friends and colleagues, Spain is their favorite European country. Given my Sicilian blood and extensive Italy travels, I’m Team Italy forever. But not to worry: I dearly love Spain. Traveling numerous regions of Spain the last 20 years, I am crazy about sherry, Spanish vermouth, Iberico ham, enchanting (and underrated) regions like Galicia… and, of course, tapas.
Some of SF’s Spanish bests have sadly closed, namely Contigo and Barcino, while greats like Bellota (for full Spain food and drink experience) or Birba (for bites, sherry, vermout,h and wine), thankfully remain. Now there’s a new Spanish “kid on the block” — unique to all the rest or to any tapas spot I’ve visited globally. Think Art Deco chic and historic U.S. vibes with Spanish authenticity on the plate.
Opening September 24, 2021, in the Proper Hotel on Market Street, La Bande benefits from being helmed by chef Jason Fox, who also runs the Proper’s other restaurants since January 2020: downstairs Villon and sweeping rooftop bar, Charmaine’s.
The broken record though I am, every time I write about Fox, I can’t help but mention my beloved Commonwealth, his Michelin-starred Mission restaurant of nearly a decade, which sadly closed in 2019. Commonwealth’s delicious creativity was up there with the best-of-the-best in a town silly with visionary chefs (and Michelin stars). Fox is crafting goodness at each Proper restaurant, from the memorable Charmaine’s Japanese breakfast to Villon’s elegance (which currently offers breakfast, lunch, and lounge service at nights vs. full-on dinner). But I still truly miss his one-of-a-kind tasting menus at Commonwealth.
La Bande is another direction entirely, but in true Fox form, is done with technique, heart, plus personal inspiration from many trips to Spain as his brother lives in Barcelona. I’ve visited twice since opening, most recently returning with friends visiting from Washington State who is planning their upcoming trip to Spain. We filled in the gaps trying the remaining dishes I hadn’t tried my first visit when I feasted on half the menu with a larger group. With my lifelong WA friends, we talked best regions, places, drinks, and dishes in Spain, while plotting their upcoming trip, ideal over Fox and the team’s tapas.
The seductive space is one of the key factors separating La Bande from other tapas/wine/aperitivo bars. Designed by Kelly Wearstler, the triangular corner spot is lofty yet intimate, given extended tables under a long sidewalk tent, glowing with lights and heat lamps. The 1908 Beaux-Arts flatiron building is an 1800s architectural style, though the feel is more 1920s Art Deco, recalling the best of New York, SF, LA and Chicago in that era. Wearstler’s eye makes it feel fresh yet respects its history with green marble and tiles, brass, black and white stripes, dim lighting and Iberico ham on the counter when available (it’s tough to source right now, like so many things). Sherry, Madeira, Spanish wines and vermouth line shelving above and behind the bar/kitchen counter. This space feels oh-so Spain yet truly SF and U.S. It’s one sultry combination.
Warm and cold tapas, pinxtos (bites), plancha-grilled dishes, house bread, Galician conservas (tinned seafood), charcuterie and cheeses: it’s all here, with necessary Spanish imports alongside locally-farmed and foraged vegetables. Whether salt cod croquettes, cold, comforting potato tortilla (aka Spanish omelette) or the simple, garlic-laced perfection of pan con tomate (tomato toasts), this is Spain-worthy eats. From silky mortadella to Rioja chorizo or rabbit terrine, the charcuterie is on point. Ditto the cheeses, from lush Andazul goat’s milk blue cheese to smoked Etxegarai sheep’s milk cheese.
California/modern touches come in mini-smoked salmon avocado toasts or roasted pumpkin and sunchokes. Grilled a la plancha dishes include squid or mini-truffled ham and cheese sandwiches (ideal drinking food). While white beans and pork shoulder is a heartier shared plate, my number one dish over multiple visits was the similarly heftier spinach, chickpeas, and blood sausage bowl. This dish nailed sweet-savory contrast with spiced-sweet, crumbled blood sausage intermingling with savory and vegetal. All three desserts win, especially Spanish almond cake, balancing sweetness and nuttiness.
As with other Proper SF restaurants, Josh Harris’ BVHospitality created the cocktails and drink list. When it comes to cocktails, it’s straightforward, whether a Nitro Negroni or Fiero Spritz. There are two versions each — white and red — of a classic Negroni, Americano or Sbagliato (sparkling Negroni). While there’s Gin & Tonic Service for 4–6 people, complete with garnishes and pricey German Monkey 47 gin, the single Gin & Tonic on the menu was just a basic G&T in a tall glass vs. Spain’s ubiquitous goblet/stemware and garnishes style. Drinks pair well with the food and though common, are made well. Rather than offering Spanish vermut (an exciting world on its own), the vermouth list is just four offerings, all from Italy or France, but served as in Spain: on the rocks with an olive and a citrus twist.
I’m more into the wine list (there are also seven European and local beers on draft), particularly with Spanish pours like a 2019 Viñátigo Tenerife Islas Canarias Listan Blanco from one of my favorite wine regions in Spain, the Canary Islands. The acidic, chalky ease of a 2020 Ameztoi Getariako Txakolina sings with seafood dishes, while a longtime go-to Spanish cidre (cider) of mine, crisp-punchy Isastegi Sagardo Naturala pairs nicely with many a dish (there are also two French ciders on offer).
The real drink highlight was vintage Madeira from D’Oliveira with La Bande’s collection dating back to the 1930s. Granted, Madeira is from Portugal/the island of Madeira. But as a close neighbor to Spain, the fortified wine pairs with the food beautifully (as does Spanish sherry). Post-dinner, we sampled Madeiras from 1994, 1989, 1987 and 1973, covering the gamut from nutty complexity to raisin-y lushness. Each wowed (especially the ’73 with its welcome mustiness and age), further warming a chilly night already warmed by kind service, heartwarming tapas, conversation and drink.
Savoring the aged Madeira tied together the unique history of the building with its new inhabitant. In its striking but snug space, La Bande marries Spain with San Francisco, as it unites New and Old World, traditional Spanish tapas and bites with modern freshness and ease. If we were going to have another Spanish restaurant, I’m grateful it’s one that brings something original to the equation in a space as beautiful as this. ¡Mola!
// 1100 Market St., www.properhotel.com/san-francisco/restaurants-bars/la-bande
