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NOPA: Behind The Scenes With Chef Laurence Jossel — The Bold Italic — San Francisco

2 min read
The Bold Italic

By Melissa Small

The Western Addition vs. NOPA gentrification debate rages on, and at the center of it all is a restaurant that brings over 400 people a day to the neighborhood — the aptly named NOPA. As older businesses turn over and new ones move into the ‘hood, this restaurant keeps a steady drumbeat, running almost 24 hours a day.

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NOPA’s chef, Laurence Jossel, runs a brigade of foodies dedicated to quality fare, from the pastry chef who gets up before the crack of dawn to the bartenders who go home in the wee hours.

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WEREHAUS went behind the scenes with famed NOPA chef Laurence Jossel to get a closer look at the restaurant that is helping to define an emerging neighborhood.

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The Bold Italic is a not-for-profit media organization, and we publish first-person perspectives about San Francisco and the Bay Area. We operate under a fiscal sponsorship of a 501(c)(3).

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Last Update: March 21, 2026

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