These newcomers or new menus cover the gamut, from steakhouses (American and Argentinean) to Japanese tsukemen noodles. Alongside this month’s full restaurant reviews of four exceptional spots — Nisei, AFICI, Marlena, La Société Bar & Cafe — these six are also worth visiting, with last month’s standouts here (as always, I’ve vetted, visited or ordered from each place reviewed):
Bay Views Steakhouse with New Chef: EPIC Steak
Chef Parke Ulrich’s duo of EPIC Steak and its sister restaurant next door, Waterbar, are an upscale yet chill surf-and-turf duo with a view along SF’s Embarcadero. Opening in 2008, Ulrich took over in 2013, keeping it Bay Area as a steakhouse centered around sustainability, environmentally friendly and organically-grown ingredients.
Chef de cuisine Colton Hays joined Ulrich over EPIC Steak early this summer 2022, having moved to SF in 2001 from his Hawaii home. The islands subtly inform his cooking, as his family’s natural farming background melds with California’s bounty. He was chef de partie at Spruce when it earned its Michelin star, and cooked at the likes of Aperto, Cafe des Amis, Michael Chiarello’s Coqueta and Tyler Florence’s Miller & Lux steakhouse.
Gracious wine director Grace Newport hails from Dublin, impressively working her way up from server since she started at EPIC in 2015, becoming certified with the Court of Master Sommeliers in 2018, now studying for advanced certification. Amid well known wineries and bold reds ideal for steak, hide a few small production delights I gravitate towards, including one of my longtime beloved local winemakers, Forlorn Hope (we ordered a bottle of their mineral 2017 Trobairises picpoul from Rorick Heritage Vineyard in CA’s Sierra Foothills). They also offer a “drink old vine wine” section of wines made from decades-old vines.
EPIC continues to source from San Francisco butcher Bryan Flannery’s Flannery Beef, while Hays also brought in steaks from superb Dogpatch local, Olivier’s Butchery. Chef Hays plays with local Dungeness crab over avocado-tarragon mousse, grapefruit and nasturtium leaves, while he infuses his Hawaii roots in delicate yellowfin tuna poke in wasabi aioli, scooped up with Okinawan sweet potato chips.
The quality of beef in-house extends to raw beef tartare with quail egg, caperberries, radish, in a fun presentation atop potato gaufrettes chips, mixing it up from the usual tartare. Roasted hen of the woods mushrooms are amped up with garlic confit and Calabrian chili oil. A 28-day dry-aged porterhouse is a hefty 32 oz. of grass-fed, grain-finished Olivier’s beef. Add on horseradish cream and a side of black truffle mac ‘n taleggio cheese and the night feels celebratory. As a large family launched paper lanterns into the sky over the Bay in front of us as we dined waterside, it brought back memories of the village in Taiwan’s Pingxi District where I launched paper lanterns into the night sky. Feasting at EPIC as the bridge and Bay sparkled and paper lanterns turned into tiny dots of light in the night sky was another rich “only-in-SF” moment.
// 369 The Embarcadero; www.epicsteak.com
Waterside Views & Standout Veggie Dishes: Terrene at 1Hotel
Since opening in July 2022 in the new 1 Hotel San Francisco, Terrene has stepped forward from its former hotel vibes with (frankly) mediocre food and drink that wouldn’t draw locals in. It’s still a hotel, but a completely new one, known for its organic, earthy designs that feel much more at home in SF. The restaurant and bar’s greenery-lined space opens onto an expansive patio on the Embarcadero with killer views of the Bay Bridge, Ferry Building and Bay. Cocktails are stepped up, thanks to beverage director Andre Sierra (who moved here from Miami), with zero-waste and cocktails inspired by SF neighborhoods and landmarks.
Of the 7 cocktails tasted, a couple were too sweet, but the ones that work, really work. The two standouts were, funny enough, both tequila cocktails: creamy-yet-light Bellarosa Mi Jenta (blanco tequila, Aperol, Mancino Sakura Blossom Vermouth, pineapple husk cordial, Greek yogurt, Peychaud’s bitters), while Al Pastor is beautiful presentation and savory-sweet cocktail of grilled al pastor pineapple-infused (and rimmed) Espolon Blanco Tequila, Grand Marnier, smoked chili and lime.
Hailing from Ames, Iowa (he has cooked from Austin to NYC), chef Scott Koranda’s menu utilizes our pristine ingredients with zero-waste initiatives. Dips, like carrot harissa or beet muhammara, make healthy, vibrant bar food. Flatbreads and sliders are ok, entrees (scallops and chicken) are solid, but veggie dishes are as strong as the dips. Brussel sprouts are perked up in salted honey sherry vinaigrette with pickled Fresno chiles and spiced walnuts, while roasted Star Route Farms carrots shine in whipped tahini, feta, toasted pistachios, herbs and chili honey. Contrast is nicely done in each, while quality mushrooms surprise, flavor-packed in fig balsamic glaze and shishito pepper puree.
// 8 Mission Street at Embarcadero; www.1hotels.com/san-francisco/taste/terrene
Argentinian Staple: Lolinda
I hadn’t been back to lofty Lolinda in years, so was glad to return to SF’s leading Argentinean steakhouse since it opened in 2012. A new addition to the menu just before I dined was salmon ahumado, a toast loaded with tender smoked salmon, given acidic-vegetal contrast from watercress salad, sweetly brightened by tomato jam. Their empanadas remain a highlight as I remember from visits past, with alternately flaky-chewy dough, the classic carne/ground beef version being my favorite, packed with raisins, egg, potato and olives, dipped in killer chimichurri sauce.
There were long waits (well over 20 minutes) between initial bites and next courses, maybe due to a huge table/party near us? But the gracious spirit of general manager Vincent Chooi warmed up the waits. While our chorizo sausage was a touch dry, the morcilla blood sausage was juicy, cinnamon-spiced, classic. Mollejas (veal sweetbreads) were tender, layered with maitake mushrooms, drizzled in mole sauce. Seco de Carne, an entree of Malbec-wine braised short ribs with carrots, creamy polenta and spinach, exemplified hearty comfort. Cocktails are straightforward/simple, although High in The Pines (gin, lemon, grape and rosemary shrub, soda water) blessedly offered a strong vinegar kick from the shrub. Pair dishes with Portuguese and South American wines, and settle into the lofty two floor space for our best more upscale Argentinian restaurant.
// 2518 Mission Street, www.lolindasf.com
Pizzas with Tiki Cocktails & Natural Wines: Pie Punks
I must admit: I was bummed to see Jersey close in SoMa, as one of only a couple places doing Jersey-style pizza, or Trenton tomato pie — and doing it deliciously (thankfully, we still have the OG Tony Gemignani’s Jersey tomato pie at Tony’s Pizza Napoletana, which is better than all versions I had partly growing up in NJ). While the new Pie Punks, which opened late June 2022, continues the space’s pizza legacy, it’s good but not amazing versions of pizza styles we already have plenty of and done better: East Coast pizza, Detroit-style and Grandma pies. However, owner Lane Ford with Pedro Gonzalaz running the pizza/dough side (formerly at Delfina, Beretta) and chef Alvin Luna (former exec chef at Gary Danko), bring multiple pizza styles under one roof and do so with playful attitude, paired with Tiki cocktails and natural wines.
It’s a fun mashup with festive vibes and friendly staff. Detroit-style Wisconsin brick cheese corned beef pizza is blessedly different (and Midwestern), laden with sauerkraut and spicy mustard, although missing some of the harmony in the best Reuben pizzas I’ve tasted, which this distantly recalls. Grandma-style sausage pizza benefits from broccolini and Calabrian chiles, comforting though not superlative (I could use even more of that vibrant tomato sauce!) The last thing one needs next to breading and cheese is more cheese, but I love that they offer fried beer battered Wisconsin cheese curds in spicy tomato sauce. Corn chicken chorizo salad feels hearty vs. healthy (and a bit soggy) with iceberg and cabbage (whitish) lettuce. But sipping a delightful, chilled Inizi red Italian blend from Mendocino, or a boozy, not-too-sweet Drone Pilot (blackstrap rum, Jamaican gold rum, lime, grapefruit, cinnamon, velvet falernum, bitters) — a variation on a classic tiki Jet Pilot cocktail — is a good time. Yes, there are also many better Tiki cocktails in town. But it’s the combo of the whole and the spirit of Pie Punks and team that wins here.
// 145 2nd Street, www.piepunkssf.com
The Originator of Tsukemen Comes to SF: Taishoken
Taishoken, a popular tsukemen and ramen chain in Japan, opened their second U.S. shop in San Francisco in August 2022, with their first very popular (expect lines) U.S. shop nearby in San Mateo in 2019. I adore tsukemen (cold noodles dipped in hot broth), and Taishoken Nakano legendarily “created” the dish roughly sixty years ago as their staff meal started to catch on with diners, first establishing tsukemen in Tokyo, eventually spreading to the world. Launching as a family business in 1951, Taishoken has over 100 restaurants in Japan alone, while CEO and third generation grandson, Yoshihiro Sakagachi, lives in the U.S., continuing to expand the brand here. Housed in a prime Mission District location in the former MAU, the space boasts clean, pine wood lines, beer, wine, low proof cocktails and sake with tsukemen, ramen (like decadent lobster ramen) and a noodle-making machine in full view. I also appreciate small plates like takoyaki (fried octopus balls), cucumber in green chili miso or fries loaded with kombu seaweed and Parmesan. Prices are right ($6–12 for filling small plates) and this is gratifying drinking food, with or without drinks.
// 665 Valencia Street, www.taishokenusa.com/san-francisco
One of SF’s Best (Newer) Dim Sum Spots: Dumpling Home
Open September 2020, Dumpling Home’s waits and crowds further confirm its stance as one of the best dim sum/dumpling houses to come along in years. Their xiao long bao wins, but even more so, their pan-fried shengjianbao with thicker dumpling “skin” packed with piping hot soup, undergirded by a little crisp from the pan-sear. Their dan dan noodles could use more pork “dressing” but it’s a comforting dish beyond dumplings, while more wonton-style pork dumplings in sesame sauce and chile oil are another favorite. The space, service and drink offerings are “no frills” but it’s all about the food. This has been added to the pantheon of all-time favorite SF dim spots.
// 298 Gough Street, www.dumplinghome.com
