By Tamara Palmer
Ry Stephen, chef and partner at Mr. Holmes Bakehouse, has already made a big impression with his leftfield imagination after just two months in business on a quiet block of the Tenderloin. His wildest creation so far is the California Croissant, which hides a smoked salmon sushi roll inside a flaky pastry that’s topped with sesame seeds and served with a packet of soy sauce. It’s quickly become one of the must-try novelty items in town because it delivers more than a good headline.
“I feel the salmon, nori, wasabi and ginger all balance together well with the rich, buttery croissant,” says Stephen. “Adding the soy sauce helps to create the full experience of eating a traditional Cali roll — except you’re in the TL, eating a Cali Croissy, looking at a neon sign, and wondering what the hell is going on.”
Pickled Ginger, Nori and Wasabi
“The idea for the Cali Croissy came from simply browsing the aisles at the grocery store one day,” reveals Stephen. “I believe that inspiration can be found anywhere in our daily lives if we are open to it. I looked at the nori, then the pickled ginger, and thought they could be used some way. A moment later I had the idea for the Cali Croissy.”
Smoked Salmon
“I knew I wanted to go with the smoked salmon because it was and still is my favorite filling for a Cali roll so I had to do firstly what I would love to eat. I found smoked salmon was the best option, it adds a nice layer of flavor. I may play with other Cali roll fillings down the road, though.”
Croissant Dough
“There was certainly a lot of trial and error and research into the dough being able to bake well without loss of quality structure. It eventually led me to change my entire croissant dough recipe. The Cali Croissy shaped the plain croissant.”
Photo by Tamara Palmer
