Palm Springs midcentury glory is a major draw for a lifelong retro girl like me. At home, I’ve long decorated midcentury in my San Francisco 1890’s Victorians, just as I’ve dressed with 1940s-50’s influence since I was a teen, collected vintage barware and books and have been literally weaned on the films and music of that era and beyond.
My partner Dan (“The Renaissance Man”) and I are crazy about Palm Springs’ architecture, driving around looking at homes and open houses, visiting antique/vintage shops, reveling in the restaurants and bars with midcentury history. I’ve had a lifelong dream of spending a birthday renting out Sinatra’s Palm Springs home with a few close friends, making cocktails while we listen to records, just as we do at home but poolside in Sinatra’s E. Stewart Williams-designed house.
PS is a small city, though a dense region of expanding sprawl from Rancho Mirage and La Quinta to nearby Joshua Tree, peppered with palm trees, surrounded by the stunning San Jacinto mountains. On my recent January visit, the mountains were packed with snow, strikingly contrasting the palms after am ongoing deluge of unusual California rains. PS is desert-chic with an artsy, LGBTQ-heavy community that immediately makes me feel at home.
This isn’t exactly big-city eats and bars, but there are hip gems that could fit that bill, comfortable neighborhood spots and affordable eats aplenty, if you know where to look. We enjoyed unique experiences like the Vegas-esque Marvyn’s Magic Theater in Palm Desert, a nightly magic comedy show hosting numerous big name comedians in the magic sphere, a fun way to spend the evening, reminding me of youthful LA days at the Comedy & Magic Club in Hermosa Beach.
Here is my Palm Springs guide with two hotel recommendations, two coffee shops, seven mid-range and seven fast casual spots, outlining highs — and when relevant, lows.
WHERE TO STAY
La Quinta Resort & Club, La Quinta
La Quinta Resort & Club is a good 35–45 minutes drive to Palm Springs proper depending on traffic, but it feels like a real retreat. Opened in 1926, it’s a property literally surrounded by/nestled in mountains, lush with bougainvillea and palms, recalling old Hollywood. In fact, the likes of Katherine Hepburn, Clark Gable, Bette Davis, Errol Flynn and Greta Garbo all stayed here, so my retro, classic film-loving self connected to it immediately.
Set on 45 acres, lined with 1920’s Spanish-style casitas and suites clustered around 41 pools, this is also a major golfers’ destination with five courses plus 23 tennis courts. But for non-sports lovers like me, it’s about the historic Spanish-California architecture, mountain views and feeling that storied Hollywood glamor as I walk the grounds. Separate pools and hot tubs keep things (thankfully) less crowded and chill. Among 796 rooms, our decor (wall art, etc.) was a bit sparse but the good-sized room was warmed by a fireplace with a huge rooftop patio taking in those majestic peaks. I continue to marvel (in dismay) at the lack of environmental practices in huge hotels/resorts like this: few recycling bins, hunting for a water station to fill our water bottles, plastic water bottles everywhere, etc. Other than this issue, La Quinta Resort is a massive but delightful place to return to at the end of a day.
// 49–499 Eisenhower Drive, La Quinta; www.laquintaresort.com
Hotel Paseo, Palm Desert
Opening 2018, Hotel Paseo is a good 30 minutes drive to Palm Springs proper depending on traffic, but is an airy, modern boutique hotel with large pool and astroturf lawn sporting backyard games like cornhole and a cute vintage airstream also for rent. Where La Quinta Resort is about 1920s-30s California, expansive grounds and views, Hotel Paseo is about modern, clean lines with an easy to get around, more intimate campus, and, yes, mountain views but on the horizon vs. so closely surrounding. I dig the classic red 1950s car in Paseo’s entryway and our room’s mini-balcony mountain views. Of note, Little Bar is essentially across the (busy) street, with Varraco Roasting just ½ a mile away (both reviewed below).
// 45–400 Larkspur Lane, Palm Desert; https://hotelpaseo.com
MID-RANGE RESTAURANTS
Sleek Design, Big City Menu: Workshop Kitchen+Bar
Probably the most realized restaurant of my return to Palm Springs was Workshop Kitchen+Bar (it could also have been Bar Cecil if I had been able to try more food there). Opening in 2012, the decade-old restaurant gained a sister in Los Angeles in 2022, mimicking its same dramatic, minimalist, steel and concrete, cathedral-shaped design that won this original locale a James Beard award for design in 2015. I was glad to sit in a booth vs. the long communal table, as the booths make the concrete room feel warmer — as does the charming service.
Chef/owner Michael Beckman and chef de cuisine Beren Ekine-Huett turn out dishes that feel closer to big city standards, like a healthy-yet-flavor-packed shaved brussels sprouts salad dense with farro, fennel, Humboldt Fog cheese, apples, almonds, dates and mint in ginger-orange vinaigrette. The most fun starter? Comforting goat cheese pierogies, accompanied by an apple, radish and kohlrabi slaw, sour cherry jus, dill cream and pickled mustard seeds. The dish’s modern Eastern European vibes are something I’d love to see/taste more of here.
I’m glad our delightful waiter talked us into the chicken-fried oyster mushrooms as I would have passed over them. Served with bread and butter pickles, buttermilk sauce, spiced honey and a parker house roll, the dish is decidedly Southern, playful and gratifying. Scarlet runner beans gain depth from being laced with smoked pork jowl, collard greens, tomato confit and black garlic aioli, while Atlantic salmon with blessedly crispy skin is lush in kombu butter over smoked and pickled carrot pureé with chilies and dashi crisped rice.
Opting for their reserve Champagne flight of three 2 oz. pours of Champagnes and wines from their reserve Coravin by-the-glass list, I only tried one cocktail, though would have liked to try more: Mountaineer sports a happy base of my beloved Génépy des alpes with pineapple and lime juices, Angostura and Peychaud bitters and mint, easy drinking yet not simplistic. Note: Workshop is one of, if not the, toughest reservations in PS so plan ahead.
// 800 N. Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs; https://workshopkitchenbar.com
Intimate Bar Seating, Smart Small Plates & Wine: Counter Reformation
Inside the über-hip Parker Palm Springs hotel, Counter Reformation is a Jonathan Adler-designed 14-seat bar with a couple high-top tables that feels refreshingly current and of-the-moment since opening February 2017. Yet under a pressed tin ceiling with a wooden confessional from Italy, it also has an old school, Catholic-chic vibe — the name refers to the mid-16th century Roman Catholic call for reform from immoral papal policies. It’s a tough seat to snag given its tiny size, but Counter is one of my top spots in Palm Springs.
CR’s tight, Europe-heavy wine list sports seven whites, seven reds, one rosé and one Champagne, in 3 oz. ($12), 5 oz. ($18) and bottle ($64) sizes, ranging from the likes of an earthy Spanish white 2019 La Casa de las Locas Godello, to a floral-acidic 2018 Papa Figos Vinho Tinto from Portugal’s Douro region. The wines pair beautifully with executive chef Herve Glin’s food menu of shareable small plates. Expect smart and playful, like hand-held grilled little gems lettuce wedges doused in prosciutto crumble, pea gelée and Meyer lemon pearls, or piping hot gougéres (round, savory French choux pastries) oozing comté cheese. Smoked scallops are contrasted with citrusy finger lime pearls and rich chili butter sauce. A platter of Jamón Ibérico (premium, cured Spanish ham) is partnered with Spain-proper pan con tomate (grilled, garlic-rubbed bread in tomato, olive oil, garlic and salt), transporting me back to Spain and begging for a glass of amontillado or manzanilla sherry.
// 4200 E. Palm Canyon Drive #5230, Palm Springs; www.parkerpalmsprings.com/food-and-drink
City Chic Bar for Bites & Cocktails: Bar Cecil
Unfortunately, I didn’t get a full meal at Bar Cecil, otherwise I might be able to more wholeheartedly recommend it for dinner — and it is one of the toughest reservations in town, so plan weeks ahead. But the couple plates I tried were high quality, and the few cocktails I tasted were among the best I had in Palm Springs (alongside Bootlegger Tiki, Seymour‘s and Truss & Twine, which will all be reviewed in my upcoming Palm Springs bar guide). Named after British bon vivant photographer Cecil Beaton, it’s easy to see why Bar Cecil is one of few Michelin-recommended (no stars) spots in Palm Springs.
Lead bartender Avery Underhill’s warm hospitality at the bar was a huge part of Cecil standing out, set to the room’s gorgeous design with English wallpapers, woods, brass finishes, high-backed teal blue bar stools, art and book-lined bar. The space strikes a fine line of both classic and current. Partner-executive chef Gabriel Woo’s steak tartare avoids being cliché with a vibrant hit of mustard seed, onion, capers, pickles and sunchoke chips, while Underhill and team’s cocktails strike balance with creativity. Case in point: a crushable, blessed rum-forward Kashmir (Copalli Rum, Diplomatico Reserva Rum, falernum, coconut, masala chai); and the spirituous-nutty interplay of The Lazlo (Buffalo Trace bourbon, Nixta corn liqueur, black sesame, honey, Angostura bitters).
// 1555 S. Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs; https://barcecil.com
Mexican Food Treasure in a La Quinta Strip Mall: Chula Artisan Eatery
Chula Artisan Eatery opened December of 2017 in a strip mall in more suburban La Quinta from chef/owner Katherine Gonzalez. She grew up in southern Arizona, raised on her mother’s recipes, who immigrated from Chihuahua, Mexico, with her father’s family from Spain. Handmade flour tortillas and salsas are the standard I’m used to, but in addition to this, Gonzalez sources locally and has an unexpected healthy focus, including plenty for vegans and gluten free diners. Most importantly, Gonzalez’ food is made with care and flavor, offering healthy, upscale Mexican dishes in a casual space. From queso fundido to sweet white corn esquites, posole to pork tortas, all is made from scratch. I dined for brunch and two standout dishes were her huevos rancheros over a vibrant green, gluten free cactus corn tortilla with housemade turkey chorizo, and “Mom’s Chilaquiles” in her mother’s red chile or tomatillo sauces.
// 47150 Washington Street, Ste B, La Quinta; www.chulaeatery.com
Open-Air Mexican Mash-Up: Clandestino
Just opened at the end of 2022 from the owners of Farm (below) and Tac/Quila, Liz and Mark Ostoich, Clandestino is a new open air restaurant a stone’s throw from Palm Springs famed Marilyn Monroe statue. A bar and a few tables inside flow into a patio of tables in a space that gives off a 1990s sense of flash with its purples, reds, blacks and pinks, plates and glassware. Rosalba Carrion and Gustavo Carreon’s menu is a melange of Mexico, rooted in tradition but playing with it, whether chipotle tartare crab cakes or avocado tempura tacos on flour tortillas. Crab enchiladas are a bit too heavily smothered in guajillo pepper adobo and artichoke sauce, but they still comfort. A welcome lighter side is here in a slew of seafood ceviches or salads like jicama, papaya, green apple, carrots and mint leaf salad in watermelon serrano vinaigrette.
// 175 N. Palm Canyon Drive, Suite 160, Palm Springs; https://clandestinopalmsprings.com
Brunch & Craft Beers on Draft: 1501 Uptown Gastropub
Opened by co-owners Willie Rhine and chef Chad Gardner in February 2021, 1501 Uptown Gastropub is housed in a lofty space designed by famed architect Chris Pardo, with a green wall, arched wood ceiling, 1970s retro-tan chairs and bright pops of yellow. Cocktails are basic but it’s nice to see an 1898 classic like a Ward 8 cocktail here. But 1501 is all about the beer: a draft selection of 24 craft beers, heavy on California. While the pressed pastrami “reuben” was on fluffy focaccia and not pressed at all, it’s a decent hand-shaved pastrami, red pickled cabbage, pickles, gruyere and sour cherry dijon mustard sandwich. More gratifying was a hefty blue crab “cobb” salad, broken down into generous selections of crumbled roquefort blue cheese, avocado, cucumber, pancetta and heirloom cherry tomatoes over baby gem lettuces. The thing that would have made it better was fresh California Dungeness crab (in full season in January when I dined) vs. the more bland blue crab. All in all, 1501 is a sunny, large space ideal for brunch, lunch and beer lovers.
// 1501 N. Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs; www.1501uptown.com
Food With a (Mountain) View: 4 Saints
Arriving after dark at 4 Saints on the seventh floor rooftop of the Rowan Kimpton Hotel is a bit of a bummer as you miss the striking views of the San Jacinto Mountains mountains closely surrounding the restaurant. But the lofty dining room with its striking woods, leather banquettes, booths and marble-and-wood bar is still a chic night out in Palm Springs. Service is sweet, though not of the knowledgeable level common at home in SF, but farm-to-table ingredients and modern approach feel like home.
Dishes are a bit hit-and-miss in terms of flavor and coalescing together: a mini lobster roll benefits from caviar but is housed in a too-dry bun. Sweet potato agnolotti is on the overly dense side of al dente. But duck croquettes in black garlic aioli comfort, while scallop crudo in gremolata, cilantro and lemon is clean and light. A veggie entree of smoked cabbage layered in pistachio relish, BBQ seasoning, herbs, radishes and tahini is one of the more realized dishes. I appreciate the intention behind the ingredients in cocktails like Smells Like Tea Spirit (Amaras Cupreata mezcal, lime, green tea, mint, yellow chartreuse), even if the cocktails I tried feel in need of some balance and integration.
// 100 W. Tahquitz Canyon Way, Palm Springs; www.4saintspalmsprings.com
“CHEAP EATS”/AFFORDABLE, CASUAL
Unique Crepe Window: Gabino’s Creperie
You can’t miss the big Guy Fieri sign in the little alley with the pink hut housing Gambino’s Creperie from their Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives TV appearance. This one-of-a-kind wrapped crepe shop is worth the hype, despite chicken being the dominant meat option and the perpetual unavailability of an intriguing beef cheesesteak option (they tell me it’s tough getting the beef). Gabino’s fat, wrapped crepes win with a crispy layer of Parmesan cheese crust, while fillings are few but delicious. Basic turkey, veggie or chicken (pesto or BBQ) round out the options, so I chose the Buffalo chicken ranch crepe packed with bacon bits, cherry tomatoes, red onion, green leaf lettuce, Buffalo sauce and ranch dressing. It’s fresh, crispy, gratifying. Sit on the tiny, chill patio with crepes in a cup, then finish next door with Kreem ice cream parlor’s lush ice cream (they make a fab “kookies and kreem”). At Gabino’s, I really start to feel Palm Springs’ unique vibe.
// 170 E. Palm Canyon Drive #4, Palm Springs; www.gabinos-creperie.com
Vegan Gem: Chef Tanya’s Kitchen
Palm Springs native, Tanya Petrovna, has been honing vegan cooking since the 1980s. Meeting this California vegan food pioneer was a joy, as she’s still bursting with energy and love for what she does. She founded popular healthy eating chainlet, Native Foods Café, in PS in 1994. She eventually sold the chain, but went on to open now four locations of Chef Tanya’s Kitchen: meatless, vegan, order-at-the-counter cafés and markets that sell high quality vegan products, from candles to all manner of foods.
Her hearty, packed deli sandwiches are juicy and filling, from a seitan play off a classic Cubano to a pastrami and rye twist. Her “TuNo salad” is made of chickpeas with onions, celery, carrot, eggless mayo and spices, actually tasting like tuna salad. Tanya’s classic deli potato salad gratifies, while dessert is haboobs, non-dairy “soft serve” named after desert storms common in the region. Unexpectedly, my favorite dish was one of her house-cultured tempeh burgers, Guadalajara! Loaded with Anaheim chiles, caramelized onions, guacamole, melted cheese, lettuce, tomato and chipotle mayo, it was absolutely comforting yet fresh.
Tanya work supports animals (she’s on the board at Palm Springs Animal Shelter to turn it no-kill shelter and she started a feral cat program) and with her heartwarming fast-casual vegan cuisine — chain-averse as I am — I wish we had a Chef Tanya’s in every city.
// Four locations; https://cheftanyaskitchen.com
Burger Bar Rock ‘n Roll Dive with Cocktails: Little Bar
In a nondescript Palm Desert strip mall, cozy Little Bar is one of those “real deal” spots where you can truly soak up local flavor. The young, sweetheart staff make the place, ensuring all feel welcome. From front patio to dark, rock-and-roll bar where the former music promoter owner lined the walls with his own custom “wallpaper” of ticket stubs and backstage passes, Little Bar is fun, funky, beloved by locals and on local best-of lists. Cocktails aren’t of great complexity but are more thoughtful than you’d expect in a dive (e.g. Xanadu: Banhez mezcal, Ancho Reyes chile liqueur, pressed pineapple, lime and housemade tiki bitters).
Their $9 cheeseburger in comforting grocery store-esque buns was the best burger of my visit. Best of all, sitting at the bar you make friends with regulars and bartenders alike. One patron started a conversation about SNL’s Pete Davidson continually being out of his league with the women he dates and the next thing we knew, everyone at the bar was jumping in with their (sometimes hilarious) commentary.
// 73560 Palm Desert Drive N. #B, Palm Desert; https://little-bar.com
Smashburgers & Cocktails: The Heyday
Brad and Crystal Reihl’s The Heyday inside the Hilton Palm Springs has been a beloved smashburger destination since 2018. I was among the last to visit in January 2023 before they closed to move into their own space, a former Mexican restaurant, which they raised funds for via a GoFundMe. From the outside, the new space looks ideal for a smashburger spot. While their cocktails were pretty basic, they’re easy drinking (Smoke Signals is Sombra mezcal, Liquid Chemist orgeat, lime juice) and cocktails with burgers is a fine match. Though I’ve had better smashburgers, to be sure, I appreciate Heyday’s smashburger with cheese, caramelized onions, shredded lettuce, “special” sauce on a buttered grilled potato bun. Well worth ordering is their buttermilk fried chicken in a popular sandwich, but also in a salad of little gems, house ranch, olive oil, lemon, toasted panko crumbs, fresh grated parmesan, pepitas (pumpkin seeds) and tajin. Their “late night fries” are a loaded version of their crinkle cut fries, laden with house queso, caramelized onions, chopped chilis and special sauce.
// 1550 North Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs; www.theheydaypalmsprings.com
1975 Classic for Old School Swingers: Billy Reed’s
My retro, old soul self thrilled to Billy Reed’s Restaurant Bakery & Bar, a still-bustling Palm Springs restaurant since 1975, that has served over 15 million meals. Entering the massive, multi-room, Victoriana-meets-1970s space with live pianist, childhood memories flashed before my eyes. I caught 1980s Knotts Berry Farm vibes, Victorian parlor elegance that feels kindred to the Old Spaghetti Factory and fuzzy memories of visiting buffeterias left over from the 1970s with my Sicilian grandpa in Oklahoma as a little girl. Billy Reed’s is all this with suited waiters, many who look as if they’ve worked there for decades. The menu is like a classic diner: a little bit of everything, from chicken parmesan to sandwiches, a huge selection of breakfast dishes to meatloaf. Sitting at the bar with a bowl of super-gratifying chili and stiff martinis was a heartwarming experience of old school Palm Springs and a peek into the town’s soul. The restaurant’s spirit and decor is even older than the PS’ midcentury mecca identity, imparting a comforting sense of continuity and generations past.
// 1800 N. Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs; https://apps.billyreedsps.com
French Crepes & Brunch Time: Farm
While the crepes at Farm made me miss former Ti Couz in San Francisco for its straight-from-Brittany-France crepes, Farm is still a rarity for crepes in general and its rustic country-chic patio and intimate dining rooms are cozy, especially for breakfast or brunch. Owner Liz Ostoich modeled Farm off her travels through southern France, namely Provence, although the savory crepes are Brittany with their buckwheat base. I always test a classic French creperie with these two classics: a buckwheat crepe of jambon (ham) and Gruyére cheese centered by a sunnyside up egg (called Complete here), and on the sweet/flour side, a simple citron crepe touched with lemon, butter and sugar. Both weren’t the best versions I’ve ever had but were classic and comforting, worth ordering when visiting Farm. A hearty brunch dish outside the French theme is Farm’s Spanish migas, a generous bowl of scrambled eggs, chorizo, avocado and salsa verde over fried tortillas chips.
// 6 La Plaza, Palm Springs; https://farmpalmsprings.com
Bakery & Sandwich Institution: Aspen Mills BakeryWith four locations around the Palm Springs area, Aspen Mills Bakery has been a local institution since 1995. This isn’t your gourmand, modern-type bakery or of the historic, revival of French and ancient European baking techniques Chad Robertson revived from San Francisco’s original Tartine Bakery since 2002. Aspen Mills feels more old school 1980s and 90s, but well-done, in a comforting, childhood kind of way. Think loaves of jalapeno cheddar or cranberry spice breads, and popular sandwiches like Aspen: oven-roasted turkey breast, cucumber, red onion, lettuce, avocado, horseradish, light mayonnaise on cranberry spice bread. The sandwiches we tried were a tad too dry and could have used more sauce along with toasted bread, but the bread, meats and ingredients were fresh, quality and gratifying, making it an ideal to-go meal on the way to the airport.
BONUS: COFFEE SHOPS
Proper Third Wave Coffee: Cartel Roasting
Though I am chain-averse and Cartel Roasting is in three states, its only California location is Palm Springs. This was by far the best spot for a cappuccino or rightly-made espresso drink (read: only one size for a cappuccino, which should be no bigger than 5–6 oz.) with properly-roasted coffee. It was tougher than I anticipated finding third wave coffee shops in PS and environs, despite being in the state that birthed second wave, leading to third wave over 50 years ago. But thankfully the crew at Cartel is holding it down, enough so that we went well out of our way on more than one morning to get a proper cup. While you’re there, next door’s SHOP(PE) Ice Cream & Shop is a delightful spot for ice cream, vegan ice cream and affogato, combining the love of coffee and ice cream.
// 1551 N. Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs; https://cartelroasting.co/locations
Quality Coffee & Filipino Snacks: Varraco RoastingJust opened November 2022, Varraco Roasting was the best coffee find a short half mile from our stay at Hotel Paseo. I was delighted to see house syrups for ube and pandan lattes and iced coffees (though I can’t but help wish there were options for smaller, proper-sized cappuccinos with these creative flavors for those of us who can’t stand a lattes’ milky excess and want a more concentrated, espresso drink with fun flavors like pandan). The Filipino focus made me feel as if I was back home in the Filipino-dense population of the Bay Area, as did the diverse crowd flowing in and out of this little roastery. There are also a few Filipino baked goods, like ube or pandan bibingka (baked rice cakes) and even Milo ensaymadas (a Filipino sweet pastry).
// 73891 Highway 111, Palm Desert; https://varracoroasting.com
