I’ve spent many years visiting Portland (PDX), OR, covering its restaurants, bars, distilleries, coffee shops and beyond. This August was my first return since pandemic, with plenty to catch up on, especially over only two short days. Don’t worry: per usual, I packed it in at over 12 spots plus a farmers market.
Home base was the Woodlark Hotel, a striking combo of two historic buildings (one 1908, one 1912) in walkable downtown PDX, a 150-room boutique hotel redone in hipster-sleek style. A Good Coffee outpost in Woodlark’s black-and-white geometric tiled lobby is the kind of “musts” for me in a hotel stay: third wave, quality coffee downstairs. The hotel also houses Bullard and Abigail Hall restaurants/bars, which I didn’t get a chance to visit. With crisp whites and velvet dark green, as well as a turn-of-the-century-looking bathroom, my cozy room was quiet and a worthy respite from full days of tasting.
Here are 10 places to eat and drink in PDX now… what stood out, what to avoid (if anything) and overall highlights:
FOOD
Kann & Sousòl
Kann was what drew me back to Portland this August for the opening of beloved chef Gregory Gourdet’s long-anticipated Haitian (and first) restaurant. Widely known as a finalist on Top Chef season 12 and more recently, Iron Chef, as the former chef of PDX’s Departure and for his James Beard Award-winning cookbook, Gourdet is bringing a rarity of a genre not just to PDX but to the U.S. as a whole with this modern Haitian newcomer.
Downstairs, I also previewed his subterranean, pink and green bar, Sousòl, where a few thoughtful non-alcoholic cocktails show up (as they do upstairs at Kann), given Gourdet’s long advocacy for sober chefs and personal commitment to being sober. He has even worked with local NA producer Wilderton who created a new expression for the restaurant. I especially appreciated Haiti’s native sugarcane spirit, clairin, in a Daiquiri-esque cocktail at Kann and only wished to see more of it featured in varying cocktails.
From pop-ups to previews, Gourdet has been preparing for this restaurant for years, honoring his heritage and Haitian family, while showcasing Southeast Asian and Pacific Northwest ingredients with forward-thinking vision. Kann’s striking, open kitchen and dining room is bright and welcoming, while his tight team — including chef de cuisine Varanya Geyoonsawat and pastry chef Gabby Borlabi — work seamlessly over open flame and a massive island.
Haitian dishes, like irresistible akra (crispy taro root fritters) in remoulade, spicy salt cod pastries (pate), killer plantain brioche or a bright tomato, berry, cherry, young coconut salad in coconut vinegar all are worth ordering. Haiti’s national dish, twice-cooked pork griyo, is served here with bannann peze (fried green plantains) and avocado pikliz (salad). Hearth-fired, open flame dishes make up a big section of the menu, including Haitian coffee-rubbed beef ribs, pekin duck in cane syrup, pineapple and tamarind, or an unexpectedly memorable epis brined-chicken (a Haitian blend of herbs, onions, garlic, sweet and spicy peppers). Red cabbage gains depth from smoked herring and pepper sauce, while a side of Africa-inspired peanut and coconut cream collard greens was one of my top tastes all night. Desserts include the likes of a charred banana tart brightened by peanut curd and guava-habanero ice cream.
In its initial week, Kann felt as inviting and warm as chef Gourdet himself. Spending time with him around the PSU farmers market on a Saturday was to learn more of his gracious spirit, kindness to his local community and deep vision to train, elevate and give back the way chefs like Jean-Georges Vongerichten did to him in his younger years as a CIA grad who eventually cooked at Jean-Georges in NYC.
// 548 SE Ash Street, Portland; https://kannrestaurant.com
Langbaan, Northwest/Alphabet District
Next time I’ll visit the more casual Phuket Café housed in a pink structure resembling a Thai train car. But this visit I had to check out its sister in the same space, Langbaan: Akkapong “Earl” Ninsom and Eric Nelson’s cult supperclub Thai tasting menu restaurant that moved to this location in 2021 when they opened Phuket.
A winning Thai playlist set the soundtrack in the intimate, bustling space as we sat at the counter sipping solid cocktails and from a succinct but thoughtful wine list that included skin contact wines which paired beautifully with the food. Servers were engaged and informed on each dish from a summer menu inspired by Thailand travels, taking me back to my months in Thailand in 1998–1999 and visits since.
Beginning bites held some of the best moments, including one of my all-time favorite Thai snacks, miang som. Here, the betel leaf holds cara cara oranges, dried shrimps, peanuts, coconut and caramel fish sauce. Another killer bite? Silky, raw Hokkaido scallops in a twist on kanom krok, with coconut cream, lemongrass, lime leaf in a crispy rice cup. Gaeng luang plaa lae khai plaa is a winning course of king salmon and salmon roe in gang luang curry with ripe papaya, taro stems and wood sorrel, while nam prik nakron baan is a relish of smoked trout and halibut collar, enhanced by makrut lime. Pad kralam (charred sweet cabbage) wins in coconut cream with fennel fronds, fried curry paste and anchovy. Ninsom’s mix of flavors is appropriately bold and evocative of regional Thailand, while pushing new directions with playful interpretations. Langbaan is now on my short list of standout modern Thai restaurants in the nation.
// 1818 NW 23rd Place, Portland; https://langbaanpdx.com
Kachka, Buckman
Since 2017, Kachka has been an overall favorite of mine in PDX for chef Bonnie Morales’ thoughtful modern and classic Russian and Eastern European food. This visit I got to check out her new-to-me space with lofty, charming restaurant downstairs and intimate grocery upstairs, selling Russian and Eastern European rarities like porcini dark chocolate bars from Domantas Uzpalis in Lithuania, or house spice blends like Thursday Salt: charred rye bread crumbs, caraway, dill seed, salt, coriander (fabulous on popcorn with a shot of aquavit!) Thankfully, Kachka’s house horseradish vodka is sold not just by the bottle but in refrigerated shot sizes.
Sitting down in the restaurant, the food is as special as pre-pandemic, from farmer’s cheese and tomato confit vatrushka (yeasted stuffed buns) or dreamy egg and scallion piroshki, all baked to order, to sour cherry vareniki dumplings, a Ukrainian specialty and one of my all-time favorite Eastern European dishes. Paired with a glass of Georgian amber wine or house-infused vodkas, it’s one happy meal.
// 960 SE 11th Avenue, Portland; www.kachkapdx.com
Matta, Lower Burnside
Opening in 2018, Matta is “Vietnamese soul food” cart from Richard Van Le, who grew up near me in San Jose. He cooks a few playful Vietnamese dishes inspired by grandmother’s recipes he grew up eating, as taught to him by his uncle Chu Tien when Le went to visit him in Vietnam. I tried most of the short menu, delighted by those popular pandan coconut donuts with just the right mix of breadiness and crisp. Though I appreciated the nem nuong burg (fish sauce pork patty), the sandwich was just a bit dry. Matta’s fish sando was my favorite: boneless catfish filet fried in rice flour and coconut milk on a toasted pandan bun smartly oozed American cheese, contrasted with acidity and vibrancy from rice vinegar pickles, dac biet sauce and goislaw (the house salad/slaw).
// 2314 NE Alberta Street, Portland; https://mattapdx.com
COCKTAILS & FOOD
Takibi, Alphabet District
Takibi is a sleek and special newcomer in swank Northwest PDX inside Japanese company Snow Peak’s US headquarters. Blonde woods, a long bar, skilled and friendly service, chef Cody Auger’s Japanese dishes with Pacific Northwest ingredients are reason enough to go. Then there are the cocktails by beverage director (and former NYC bar pioneer, now PDX) Jim Meehan and bar manager Lydia McLuen.
Lingering at the bar with Monterey squid and scallion-laden potato salad or charcoal-grilled Alaskan black cod in chickpea miso is a pleasurable respite. The spirits selection and interesting, layered cocktails shine, whether the piney-bright balance of Fir Coat (Suntory Roku Gin, silky yuzu kosho lime cordial, Clear Creek Douglas Fir Brandy, Midori, lime juice, saline solution) or the ume plum-hit of Japanese Plum (Pierre Ferrand Ambre Cognac, lemon juice, Commissary Orgeat, umeboshi paste, Angostura Bitters). Care and attention translate on all levels, while the soothing atmosphere makes for a restorative meal and/or drink.
// 2275 NW Flanders Street, Portland; www.takibipdx.com
Pink Rabbit, Pearl District
First opening in 2018, San Francisco bar vet Collin Nicholas took over and reopened Pink Rabbit in July 2021, rehauling the concept, focused heavily on hospitality. The space’s sunny pinks, teals and greenery — not to mention the disco ball, astroturf and picnic table-lined parklet — match the staff’s friendly welcome. Alongside bites like pork curry wonton nachos, the well-crafted cocktails delight. I love the vegetal, refreshing goodness (and cutely named) Make It Snap Pea: gin, fino sherry, bay leaf falernum, snap peas, lime, egg white). Crowd pleasers like Moon Rabbit (Suntory Roku Gin, Combier Watermelon, Momo Sake, agave, lemon) are crushable but thoughtfully balanced.
// 232 NW 12th Avenue, Portland; https://pinkrabbitbar.com
Fools & Horses, Pearl District
The yin to neighboring Pink Rabbit’s yang, Collin Nicholas and team are opening Fools & Horses (F&H) October 5, 2022, and I had a little preview of the space and drinks, though eager to try chef Alex Wong’s Paniolo culture/Hawaiian cowboy tribute in the food (a smart, rarely explored focus outside Hawaii). Wong grew up in Hawaii and tasting his lively food at Pink Rabbit has me all the more curious what he’ll do at F&H. Where Pink Rabbit is bright and breezy, F&H is dark and seductive, with striking custom wallpaper by Lonesome Pictopia, pressed tin wall behind the extensive bar, black leather walls and lots of black in general. The sultry space is ideal for sophisticated sippers like Cash & Curry (Big Gin, white miso horchata, fino sherry, Japanese yellow curry tincture, Liquid Alchemist coconut, lychee, lemon) or a lovely cocktail of Clear Creek Pear Brandy, Big Gin, apple fennel ginger cordial, Dimmi and clarified lime.
// 226 NW 12th Avenue, Portland; https://foolsandhorsespdx.com
Deadshot, Central Eastside
A Central Eastside neighborhood favorite since 2018, Deadshot is a chill space with indoor and outdoor seating, geometric bar design and interesting cocktails by Adam Robinson. Though I wish for even more mustard and sesame in the Who Is Jack Nance? cocktail, I appreciate the drink’s bold reach combining whiskey, sesame, citrus, mustard, sherry and egg yolk in a classic Flip format, even as I’ve tasted mustard cocktails I’ve preferred over the years. Casper’s Ghost amps up the bitter with bitter melon mixed with rhum agricole, mezcal, citrus, pineapple and tarragon, while Shots Fired goes the Fernet Branca and chicory coffee route with blackstrap rum, pineapple, coconut milk and cardamom.
// 2133 SE 11th Avenue, Portland; www.deadshotpdx.com
Pacific Standard & The Sunset Room, Central Eastside
Housed in the Kex Hotel, Pacific Standard (PS) just opened July 2022 with its intimate rooftop bar, The Sunset Room, opening later that month, from Benjamin Amberg and PDX bar pioneer Jeffrey Morgenthaler (of now closed Clyde Common and Pepe Le Moko). I visited both. PS is their lobby bar tribute to the West Coast with bites like a “drive-thru burger” and walla walla French onion dip, touching on Oregon to Central California, where Morgenthaler grew up. Cocktails are straightforward classics with little twists, like passionfruit in the Ramos Gin Fizz or a Rosé Negroni with rosé vermouth and sea salt. A huge central bar and library-esque lobby space allows all day options with plenty of space. Sunset Room drinks run simple but fun, with the likes of a classic Hotel Nacional or Painkiller slushy.
// 100 NE Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd., Portland; https://kexhotels.com/eat-drink/pacificstandard
Eem, Boise/NE Portland
Despite its ties to Langbaan, which I loved, I must admit Eem was the most disappointing restaurant this visit to PDX, especially after the raves I’d heard. The lofty space with open air garage and playful parklets certainly is fun, as the aromas of Thai spices and herbs permeate the room. But with the months I’ve spent in Thailand, this was among the more lackluster Thai food I’ve had in awhile, from the boring “very spicy papaya salad” to the solid but still mild white curry with brisket burnt ends and roasted cauliflower (and it sounded so good).
Drinks fared better, but even those were mixed. Shoulda Woulda Coulda (gin, strawberry, basil, barley plant milk, lime, Thai chiles) tasted more like juice than a cocktail, the gin missing on the flavor profile. Slushie cocktails were where it was at, with the Pandan Express (house rum blend, pandan, velvet falernum, sweet cream, lime) a crushable delight.
// 808 North Williams Avenue Street # 127, Portland; www.eempdx.com
