When Roma native Gianluca Legrottaglie opened Montesacro in SoMa in 2015, it was the first proper Roman pinseria in the nation, complete with pinsaiolis (akin to a pizzaiolo) from Rome. Not familiar with pinsa? It’s an ancient Roman-style pizza, oval-shaped, happily crispy and airy simultaneously and made from a more easily digestible fermented soy, rice and wheat flour blend. Montesacro’s thoughtfully-made recipe remains the best I’ve had anywhere.
Since the OG SoMa spot opened over 7 years ago, Legrottaglie opened locations in Portland in 2018, Brooklyn in 2019 and, as of November 26, 2022, Walnut Creek in the East Bay. But in June 2022, San Francisco gained their second Montesacro in the Marina.
Katharine Hepurn to Joan Crawford, black and whites of female stars of the 1930s and 40s line the walls of the Marina locale’s intimate space. A parklet adds outdoor fun, ideal during brunch. Montesacro Marina is helmed by the same stellar team over the original Montesacro and also Roman destination 54 Mint, including chef Mattia Marcelli (also a Rome native) and director of operations and bar master Jacopo Rosito (from Florence). Their gracious warmth feels like being whisked to Italy, while the space feels modern and soothing.
I will never say no to supplí, or its sister, arancini from my mother’s family roots of Sicily. Supplí is the Roman side of irresistible fried rice balls filled with mozzarella, meats or the like, often dipped in tomato sauce. Montesacro’s supplí is tomato and ‘nduja (spicy, spreadable pork sausage from Calabria, Italy) risotto croquettes oozing molten smoked mozzarella. Yes, PLEASE.
Other antipasti/starters include porchetta (slow-roasted pork), cast iron-seared calamari, cauliflower salad and a bright navel orange, fennel, kalamata olives and chili flakes salad that sings of California winter with organic citrus.
Those same dreamy pinsas from the original location are here. The signature Montesacro pinsa is topped with an intriguing combination of olive oil and rosemary-soaked mashed potatoes, artichokes, lamb sausage, buffalo mozzarella and chilies. Sheer comfort. The Casal Bertone pinsa marries sweet-and-salty flavors with a mix of mozzarella, guanciale (paper thin pork jowl), pecorino cheese and chestnut honey.
Marcelli’s dense twist on classic Roman carbonara is also worth ordering: rigatoni is tossed in egg yolk, pecorino cheese, guanciale and a generous dose of black pepper. Likewise, other Roman pastas line the menu, including amatriciana and cacio e pepe.
However, my new favorite “scene stealer” on an already action-packed menu is focaccia der muratore: mortadella-stuffed pinsa. This thin, stuffed pinsa is a humble worker’s lunch in Roma, allowing the purity of perfect pinsa dough to shine filled with paper thin mortadella. It dissolves in the mouth with salty perfection. My mouth is salivating just thinking about this pure goodness.
Rosito’s beautifully balanced cocktails “seal the deal,” especially his should-be-iconic clarified Elmy’s Margarita, tributing Julio Bermejo’s mother of SF’s legendary Tommy’s and the Tommy’s Margarita. There are other treats like a Ford’s Gin/Italicus Bergamot Gimlet or non-alcoholic Sweater Weather mixing pear, tamarind, lemon and Angostura bitters with ginger beer. The wine list blessedly travels Italy from north to south, plus a few vermouth and chinato add fortified wine options. As at 54 Mint, more Italian spirits are on their way as Rosito keeps up on importing some of the best small producers in Italy, like the amazing Capovilla.
As at Montesacro in SoMa, dessert pinsas are must: a version stuffed with Sicilian pistachio cream from the home of the world’s best pistachios — and a small town I’ve visited and had the best pistachio gelato of my life — Bronte, Italy. But there are also simple and uncommon Roman joys here, including fluffy Roman sweet bun — maritozzo con la panna — filled with airy whipped cream, or ciambelline al vino, little rustic, crunchy, not sweet olive oil and wine biscuits ideal with wine or espresso. Rosito’s balanced, Frangelico-touched Espresso Martini is another fitting dessert.
Montesacro Marina’s recent kickoff of brunch is a welcome Marina addition. They announced just after Thanksgiving that they’re now open 7 days a week and launching an Italian Happy hour, Monday through Friday (3–5pm), starting November 28. Happy hour bites include the aforementioned supplí and baby pinsa they’ve dubbed “pinsetta.”
The Marina gained with this one, a restaurant of higher quality and Roman authenticity than some of the hot spots or more generic Italian restaurants lining the neighborhood. With this team behind it, Montesacro Marina and Walnut Creek additions are expanding their heartfelt, truly Italian hospitality that transports me back to my most beloved Italia.
// 3317 Steiner Street, https://montesacro.com/menu-marina-sf
