I’m no brand loyalist, but at least half of my wardrobe has come from the same store. Any time I’m near a Buffalo Exchange, I always pop in for a quick browse. So far, I’ve been to six outlets in three different states. And every time I’ve moved in the past five years, I’ve found myself standing at the buy counter with a suitcase full of neglected clothes. Anyone who’s downsized their closet through a secondhand retailer knows parting with your belongings can be as personal as the experiences you’ve had in them. Then there are the sellers with no emotional attachments to their wares — enigmatic folks who arrive with duffel bags full of scores.
As a bookkeeper for Buffalo Exchange’s Haight Street location while I was in college, I used to log how much was paid to sellers who brought in the biggest stashes. Some were designer junkies, cashing out what they could of last season’s barely worn goods, but most of the checks were written to a handful of people. These entrepreneurial adventurers, or “pickers,” as they’re known in the industry, scour thrift stores, flea markets, estate sales, and bulk outlets for valuable finds that they can sell to mid-priced used clothing boutiques. Picking is no easy living.
Buying in bulk is a pretty serious commitment for the casual swap meet enthusiast, so in order to see how the pickers survive, I thought I’d try my hand at a slightly easier challenge. For the expert sellers, Goodwill’s As-Is Store is a local thrifting gem. I embarked upon some next-level thrifting in its giant bins.
Sandwiched between SOMA and the Mission, San Francisco’s Goodwill As-Is Store sits in the shadow of the Goodwill mega-store a block away on South Van Ness. Long before frugal shoppers show up to browse racks of overcoats and Halloween costumes, diehard deal aficionados line up to get the first crack at each day’s as-is bins. Some of the shoppers are homeless, others are dedicated thrifters out for the thrill of the hunt, but many are pickers, looking to turn a modest profit.
The Goodwill As-Is Store is easy to miss, and I’ve walked by a number of times without ever noticing it. Inside, the store looks like a place where nice things go to die, but the cluttered warehouse is actually a place of rebirth for clothes that haven’t survived the latest stock reduction. Early birds pour into a big, gray room, and then dive into the huge plastic bins that line the walls. Even though I’m 5 foot 10, the mouths of the bright blue containers rise nearly to my waist.
Shoppers dig deftly through the soft mounds of possibility, squirreling their treasures away from each other in corners and in small piles at their feet. As I dig, I half cherish the excitement of the hunt, and half long for the luxury of hangers. The concrete floors fill quickly with precious finds and casualties, everything from perfectly worn vintage concert tees to easily hem-able granny dresses.
Most of the items that make it to As-Is have been deemed unsuitable, or haven’t sold for a month, in Goodwill’s main outlets. Sometimes, though, hidden gems slip through the cracks. That’s what I’m hoping for, at least, as I tear through the piles. Pickers around me scan their finds quickly, evaluating garments’ style and then giving them the once-over for general wear and tear. As a self-described junior picker (who’s also interested in finds for myself), I’m just as concerned with fit as with fashion. As I size up the waistband of a disco-licious accordion-pleated maxi dress, I pat myself on the back for coming prepared in a camisole and leggings. This is the recommended attire for optimal size assessment — or jeans and a T-shirt if you’re feeling shy, boys.
Also, pack light — nothing weighs you down while digging like a giant purse, and speed is of the essence, as veterans will swoop down on that Kimchi & Blue sweater coat you just spotted like scavenger birds on a fresh carcass in the Sahara. In the end, I come away with a Diane von Furstenberg–inspired wrap dress, sore arms, and yet another pair of vintage slingbacks for my unhealthily large shoe collection.
There is another way to scour Goodwill’s stockpiles. Serious resale professionals bid on the bulk lots at auctions in the As-Is Store. Shoppers have to pay a $5 entry fee for access to the containers of clothing, accessories, and electronics, but bulk prices start around $30. Winning bids on a box of purses can go as high as $250, an employee at the store tells me, although most lots are a steal compared to traditional thrift store prices.
Knowing how far the pros take their thrifting, it’s a good thing that I’m doing this for fun — for my closet’s sake, at least.
Back at the Buffalo Exchange on Haight, I see the sellers in a new light, anxious pickers mixed in with casual wardrobe recyclers. Luckily for both, San Francisco retail demands are as varied as our excuses for dressing up. Locals and tourists alike are on the hunt for creative looks for Burning Man, Bay to Breakers, Pride, and the Folsom Street Fair, to name just a few of our costumed events.
Store manager Rachel Redondo tells me about one guy who brought in an entire suit made of used tires. “It was quite the conversation piece,” she says. “People loved it!” Current styles in good condition are Buffalo’s bread and butter, though. “It’s really about what’s popular and what our customers want. It’s not necessarily about what’s trendy,” she adds, “although the majority of our customers are looking for things that are similar to what’s selling in major retail stores right now.”
In the end, I think I’ll stick to the strictly amateur side of resale, although buying from and selling to used clothing stores is still a sustainable and affordable way to keep your closet from feeling stale.
I scan the racks at Buffalo Exchange, a piece of cake compared to my morning as a picker, and score a sweet pair of wide-legged jeans at 50 percent off the retail price, which I pay for in trade.
To try your hand at picking, show up at the Goodwill As-Is Store Monday through Saturday between 8 a.m. and noon. Bulk auctions take place Monday through Friday from 8:30 to 11 a.m.
To sell at Buffalo Exchange, show up at least one hour before closing (in the winter, they close at 7 p.m.) with a valid photo ID and clean items in good condition. The store offers 35 percent cash or 50 percent trade on the retail value of any items accepted, as do Crossroads and Wasteland. Buffalo Exchange also accepts donations of clothing that the store can’t use, which are distributed to local charities.
Crossroads buys during all store hours (which vary by location) and is looking for seasonal trend pieces and current designer clothing. Wasteland — which specializes in designer pieces, vintage clothing, and accessories from the turn of the 20th century through the late 1980s — accepts sellers every day until 6 p.m. Painted Bird, which offers 35 percent cash or 55 percent trade, buys trend pieces and vintage fashions during store hours until they close at 8 p.m.
