By Sierra Hartman
California’s small coastal towns are among its greatest treasures, and Pacifica, our coastal neighbor to the south, has all the charm and beauty of someplace far more remote. The entire town, which is just a quick drive down Highway 1, is less than 13 square miles and boasts a population smaller than the Mission District. Surf shops, colorful locals, Styrofoam buoys, and driftwood hanging everywhere — it’s a perfect mini road trip waiting to happen.
If you live in the Bay Area and you know only one thing about Pacifica, chances are it has something to do with the world’s most beautiful Taco Bell. Scenic as it may be, it’s still a Taco Bell. I honestly don’t get the hype. But, hey, if you’re into surfing and 99¢ burritos, this may be the greatest place in the world for you. If you’re looking for something a little more substantial, I highly recommend Gorilla Barbeque on Highway 1 and Reina Del Mar. It’s so damn good they often sell out before normal closing time on weekends and holidays.
Once you’ve loaded up on saucy pig parts, you might be up for a leisurely walk to Mori Point. Across the street from Gorilla Barbeque is a parking lot with a few trails leading off toward the coastal bluffs. There are steep and mellow trails, but cliffside has the best views. If you’re up for more hiking, there are some other recommended spots farther inland that are definitely worth checking out. Milagra Ridge has some great little hikes that are long enough to make you feel good about yourself but not something you’ll need special shoes for. The trail out to the WWII-era gun battery has a couple spots with panoramic views from Daly City to San Pedro Rock. The fire control stations and underground complex are welded shut now, but if you peek through the gaps, you can get a look at some goofy early ’90s graffiti.
Farther south, Sweeney Ridge offers longer hikes and higher vantage points of the peninsula. It winds along the northernmost portion of a huge stretch of open space that runs as far south as Woodside. Some of the local highlights include the remnants of a former Nike missile launch site and the point where Gaspar de Portola discovered San Francisco Bay in 1769.
If you’re more in the mood for some quality beach time, you can pretty much head west at any point and find a fantastic spot to hang out. On the northern end of Pacifica, Mussel Rock Park has plenty of space to watch the waves from the cliffs or rocky coastline. Technically, it’s about 300 yards into Daly City, but let’s not split hairs here. A little farther south, at the end of West Beaumont Boulevard, is the only off-leash dog beach in Pacifica. While you’re there, you can also get a look at nature in action as the Pacific Ocean eats the cliff out from under the Esplanade apartment complex.
The municipal pier at the end of Santa Rosa Avenue was built in 1973 to run sewage offshore but now serves as a hotspot for fishing and crabbing. It’s worth a walk down to the end to hear stories about crab pots stolen by sea lions and giant fish that got away. Rockaway Beach is a popular surf spot with waves sometimes splashing over onto the boardwalk. Immediately south of here is Pacifica State Beach, aka Linda Mar Beach.
Linda Mar is the most visible stretch of sand from the highway and home to the aforementioned mega-pretty Taco Bell. It’s not uncommon to see 50 or more surfers in the water, many of whom are still getting the hang of it. The southern edge of the beach is lined by a strip of houses built in the ’20s that, with their docks and boat ramps, look like something you’d find in a Disney movie. The aptly dubbed “boat docks” were there before any authorities existed to regulate just how close to the water people could build. After seeing some old photos of the structures being battered in winter storms back in the ’80s and ’90s, I couldn’t believe they were still standing.
The road above the boat docks looks like some kind of Norman Rockwell drawing. Walking along it you might see bikes leaning against fences and chickens and ducks wandering around an open yard. If you notice a pelican puttering in and out of houses on the docks below, don’t worry; apparently it’s someone’s pet. This is a great place to walk around and chat with the friendly locals, but I could see that visitors could be overwhelming for them on busy weekends. There are signs clearly marking where private property starts and parking is very limited. If you do decide to check this area out, don’t be that guy who makes a bad name for out-of-towners.
The last piece of southern Pacifica is a place called Shelter Cove. It was historically used as a vacation getaway for San Franciscans as well as a drop-off point for Canadian bootleggers during prohibition. Since 1975, though, the cove has been strictly off-limits to outsiders. The land surrounding the cove is privately owned and the only way to get down there is to know someone who lives there. A private cove in California is controversial, to say the least, and has drawn plenty of media attention in the past. For now, if you want to get a look at the cove for yourself, you’ll either have to do it from below the high-tide line or from the top of the stairs. There is a nice little bench near the end of Kent Road that overlooks the whole cove.
So the day’s winding down, you’ve hiked around the hills, got some sand in your hair, and it’s time for a little indoor R&R. Winter’s Tavern is a great place to go for live music, shooting some pool, or playing shuffleboard. It’s only a few blocks from the pier if you happen to be in that part of town. If the band playing that night doesn’t strike your fancy, you can always head south on the 1 to Sea Bowl and channel your inner Dude. Pacifica isn’t the kind of place that advertises something for everyone, but the kind of people who dig the coastal town lifestyle will absolutely love it.
