THE WEEKEND WIND-DOWN
The Weekend Wind-Down is a series from The Bold Italic highlighting ways to explore the Bay Area and wind down from your stressful week. If you have an idea or tip, email us, or DM us on Twitter or Instagram.
Sleeping under the stars, amongst whispers of gold dust and ghost towns, is a beautiful camping experience you can get at Malakoff Diggins State Historic Park. It, along with several other California campgrounds, partially reopened this summer just in time for peak camping season. This park in the Sierra Nevada Foothills — about a 3.5-hour drive Northeast of San Francisco — is especially interesting in that was once the site of California’s largest hydraulic gold mine.
This is what getting away from the noise of life feels like. And going back to our natural origins feels right.
Powerful jets of water were used to blast away entire mountains in the name of striking them rich. Not only were the consequences on the natural environment disastrous, though, but the agricultural towns of Yuba City and Marysville also got flooded from the mining runoff; this mess sparked the first environmental laws in the U.S.
Nowadays, hikers and campers can make their way to the Diggins Lookout and see what remains of the blasted mountains. It’s striking to see how the pines have regrown in the canyon-like remains of what once was. It’s actually pretty serene. And of course great for selfies.
In addition to seeing what remains of the mining sites, the old mining town on the park grounds, called North Bloomfield, is shockingly well-preserved. Peek inside a barbershop, multiple saloons (necessary to play hard after working hard!), a horse stable, and a general store.
A small museum full of mining history occupies one of the buildings, though isn’t currently open. The Visitors Center, however, is. Firewood bundles there are $8 a pop and ask the staff any questions you may have about the best spots to swim, hike, or fish. (You can even arrange to pan for gold. Just obviously not with a giant hydraulic cannon.)
Getting to Malakoff Diggins strictly with GPS can be fine if you have a four-wheel-drive to finish the last few miles’ stretches of unpaved dirt road. For those with less powerful cars, or those wanting a pit stop, set your navigation to Nevada City first. It’s the closest town to the park, about a 50-minute drive away, where you can grab a meal or any last-minute supplies for camping. Nevada City is definitely worth checking out for its own character, as well.
Still being in Gold Country, the town maintains an Old Western vibe in its architecture. Stores are chock full of Western gear, saris, and beads — speaking to the sizable population of rich hippies that seem to inhabit the town these days. After grabbing a cold pub pint and some energy crystals, don’t forget to screenshot directions from Nevada City to the campgrounds from the park website before heading back out. Stick to the directions and don’t use GPS if you want to stay on paved roads the rest of the way.
Chute Hill is the name of the campground in Malakoff Diggins, which is right next to the mining town of North Bloomfield.
It’s reasonably priced at $35 per campsite per night, plus a $5–$10 vehicle fee. There are also cabins available, though unfortunately not for the 2021 season. Meeting up at a campsite is a great way to socialize with friends who still may not be comfortable hanging out indoors, especially with the latest delta variant of Covid-19. Feel free to laugh together and frolic in nature, as far away from each other as you want.
Aside from the 20 miles’ worth of hiking trails and two lakes where you can fish or swim, you can also drive a short distance to cool off in the Yuba River (though take note this is along the unpaved dirt road). It might be all you want to do during the heat peak at high noon. Friendly rangers drive through the park often, happy to stop and give you directions or other advice. Even when they tell you you’re violating a rule, like having a dog off a leash, they’re still so nice about it. Must be all the fresh air that makes them happy.
Each campsite is well-maintained and provides just enough amenities for those who love their creature comforts, but still want to feel like they’re roughing it. The trees are trimmed in a way as to guarantee some shade in each site — much welcomed during the summer where temperatures can reach the sweltering 90s. You also get a picnic table with attached benches, a fire pit with a removable grilling grate, a bear locker for your food and scented toiletries (apparently bears’ noses are that sensitive!), plenty of space for your car and tent, and conveniently placed trash and recycling receptacles throughout the grounds.
Communal taps of potable water provide options for cooking, dishwashing, and refilling water bottles. The bathrooms may the be most luxurious part of the grounds. While there are no showers, there’s actual plumbing with flush toilets, sinks with refreshingly cold running water, and an ample supply of both toilet paper and soap. The floors are so clean and shiny that you can practically see your reflection in them.
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Load up your car and coolers with goodies from Costco, and your trip can be as budget-friendly or as glampy as you want. Grilled ribeye steaks and lobster tails for dinner, or a can of beans and Ballpark franks? A case of PBR or Veuve Clicquot? Why not both? The sites are so peaceful, that even if you don’t partake much in the hiking trails or lakes, sitting still can feel like all you need. Hear the wind snaking its way through the tall trees. See a gentle deer quietly pass through your campsite. As you hear nothing but nature, let the relaxation sink in.
This is what getting away from the noise of life feels like. And going back to our natural origins feels right.
*Editor’s Note: This story was prescheduled to run… and it just so happened to be published during a time when much of the area was surrounded by wildfire smoke. We’d recommend checking CAL FIRE’s incident report to keep up-to-date with the state’s wildfire season.
