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West Oakland’s Gastronomic Renaissance

9 min read
Matt Charnock
Photo courtesy of Soba Ichi

Oakland’s food scene, while it’s long been eclectic and excellent, has completely blown up during the past few years—so much so that it’s safe to say that the East Bay’s culinary scene is officially more exciting than San Francisco’s.

While neighborhoods like Temescal and Uptown have received the majority of the attention, many still consider the dynamic neighborhood of West Oakland a foodie desert. But that couldn’t be further from the truth. In fact, even though beloved Brown Sugar Kitchen recently closed its doors after 10 years in the area to open in Uptown and the SF Ferry building, plenty of other culinary endeavors are taking place—perhaps more than the neighborhood has ever seen.

From community-first grocers like the soon-to-open People’s Community Market to thriving community gardens to a melting pot of global and local tastes, it’s time for you to get eating in West Oakland. We’ve rounded up the most exciting places where you should sip and savor now.

Where to Eat

Photo courtesy of Soba Ichi

Soba Ichi

Just over a year old, this Magnolia Street noodle emporium has amassed a loyal following thanks to its homemade soba noodles—a rare find outside of Japan and certainly in the United States. In fact, its chef, Koichi Ishii, is the Bay Area’s only one hand-making them from scratch. He whips up only a handful of batches each day, including both jyuwari soba, consisting of 100 percent buckwheat flour, and nihachi soba, a blend of 80 percent buckwheat flour and 20 percent wheat flour. The entirely buckwheat ones, more difficult to craft, often sell out.

The calming wood-filled restaurant—designed by Zen Buddhist priest and master wood craftsman Paul Discoe—sits inside industrial park O2 Artisans Aggregate. Diners can order their soba hot or cold, along with sides such as delicately fried tempura vegetables, pickles and miso-simmered herring. The beverage list is also extensive and geographically “on brand,” including Japanese beers, shochu and sake. Wait times often exceed 45 minutes—but trust us when we say it’s worth it.

2311 Magnolia Street | www.sobaichioakland.com

10th & Wood

No, butter is not a carb. But it’s the caloric law of the land at 10th & Wood, a neighborhood staple that opened in 2014 by owner Anastasia Levitansky. The community-focused cafe prides itself on responding to what its neighbors want, saying it specializes in “Oakland cuisine.”

Biscuits slathered with homemade white gravy and pork hashes round out the breakfast offerings. Lunch is an ode to old-school patty melts and the overstuffed sandwiches of yesteryear delicatessens. And don’t forget the beignets, which are perfectly draped with liberal amounts of powdered sugar. To top it all off, dishes at 10th & Wood rarely cost more than $12.

945 Wood Street | www.10thandwood.com

La Perla Taco Truck

Oakland has plenty of good taco joints, but La Perla is up there as a resident favorite, perched alongside West Oakland’s ever-changing scene along West Grant Avenue near BART. The truck opened nearly a decade ago and still sees long lines on weekdays (but isn’t open on weekends).

If you go, make sure to try their “tripas” (tripe) and “lengua” (tongue) tortilla foldings or less adventurous offerings such as carnitas or al pastor, which are also excellent. Once your burrito or tacos are in hand, there’s nothing to do but savor the sustenance in front of you, complemented by a cold bottle of Jarritos.

1395 7th Street | www.facebook.com/pages/La-Perla-Taco-Truck

Pretty Lady

Every neighborhood needs a good diner, and Pretty Lady is filling that spot in West Oakland. Old fashioned in many ways (with its U-shaped counter with stools and its kitschy decor), the restaurant is less traditional in others—including its menu, which puts a Korean twist on American classics.

Dishes include everything from homemade strawberry cheesecakes to teriyaki rice plates to both cheesesteaks and breakfast burritos that could double as dumbells. The best part? Anyone can request a complimentary plate of homemade kimchi.

1615, 1733 Peralta Street | www.facebook.com/prettyladyrestaurant


Where to Drink

Photo courtesy of Oakland Spirits Company

Oakland Spirits Company

Something of a coworking space for Bay Area distillation makers and curious mixologists, Oakland Spirits Company operates under one central principle: drinks of distinction for everyday people. The three-year-old East Bay distillery is known for such things as foraging for bitters and bottling grape-distilled gins inside a repurposed 30s-era auto glass shop.

Spirit lovers are welcome to take a tour of the distillery with a heads-up in advance or pick up a bottle at various Bay Area merchants. “The community in Oakland is filled with creators and bartenders, protesters and collaborators,” said co-owner Michael Pierce. “I was trying to find a community anchor for my love affair with spirits, and Oakland fit like a glove.”

25th and Broadway | www.oakland.ventures

7th West

Opened in August of last year, 7th West is one of the most exciting new additions to West Oakland. Owned and operated by locals Donna Inscho Brinkman and Kevin Pelgone of Overlook Lounge, Assan Jethmal of Good Mother Gallery and Pancho Kachingwe of the Hatch (all of whom have long been involved in the Oakland arts and culture scene), this establishment is part bar, part restaurant, part dog park, part beer garden and part events space.

The massive 8,000-square-foot space often hosts community events—featuring local artists, musicians and more—and serves as a pop-up kitchen for Jeepney Guy, the resident gastronome, who serves up stellar Filipino food. Finger-friendly bar foods, such as the Mochiko Chicken Nuggets and Chicharone plates, exist alongside well-priced rice bowls, such as the Lechon and Adobo ribs.

1255 7th Street | www.7thwest.com

Old Kan Beer & Co.

The latest project from chef James Syhabout of Hawker Fare and Commis, as well as brewer Adam Lamoreaux, debuted a little over two years ago along the railroad tracks in a largely desolate part of town. The space is cozy with a variety of board games for patrons to play as well as a dog-friendly outdoor patio.

Make sure to try the well-priced on-site brewed staples such as the Old Kan Original, the Old Kan Light and the Old Kan Dark. Given that Syhabout is behind the operation, it’s no surprise that the food stands out—the mussels, jerk wings and fried-chicken sandwiches are all crowd favorites.

95 Linden Street Oakland | www.old-kan.com

Ghost Town Brewing

West Oakland’s newest taproom is, dare we say, hauntingly desirable. The name itself is a tongue-in-cheek play on the once ghost-town qualities West Oakland exhibited decades prior. The brewery has been running a small operation with distribution to local bars since 2012, but this is the first taproom for the owners, bandmates turned brewers, Ryan Nosek, Adam Hill, Jason Gehman and Samuel Carr-Prindle.

Brews like Final Rites Rye, Locrian Pale and Coffin Juice IPA are now served in the 8,000-square-foot facility, with most pints priced at $5 or less. Take note of the carousel of food trucks that routinely set up shop outside.

1960 Adeline Street | www.ghosttownbrewing.com

Den Sake Brewery

Located in the same industrial park as Soba Ichi and the Perennial’s aquaponics farm, Den Sake Brewery has been busing making traditional sakes—and selling them almost faster then they can make them. While you can’t actually visit the brewery, you’ll find the sake on menus across the East Bay as well as at Umami Mart, True Sake and certain Bi-Rite Markets.

The man behind the muddled, bubbling carbs, Yoshihiro Sako, is focusing on the most upscale, high-end junmai sake. Why? He’s hoping to convert tried and true California wine lovers over to the East Asian adult beverage.

2311 Magnolia Street | densakebrewery.com


Where to Grab Coffee

Trouble Coffee Co.

Revolution Cafe

“Rev Cafe,” also referred to by locals as 7th Street Cafe, is perhaps the area’s favorite coffee shop. It’s a caffeinated meeting spot adored by the community, with many of the patrons walking through their doors having done so for decades on end.

Live music reverberates off the aged walls nearly every night, acting as a backtrack to the warm conversations that cozy up the place. The smell of organic coffees wafts across the bar top, while plates of chicken and waffles are devoured with a certain feverishness. It’s an in-your-face slam poem to a past way of East Bay living, one that’s clinging on for dear life.

1612 7th Street | www.7streetcafe.com

Kilovolt Coffee

Ethan Ashley, a self-trained electrician, was inspired to open one of West Oakland’s newest coffee shops after feeling like he couldn’t find a good cup of coffee in the area. Situated in a former steel-equipment warehouse, the place has been given a modern feel with stainless steel countertops, hospital-white tilings and a contrasting black floor. High-voltage power lines that double as chandeliers are just one of the many DIY quirks Ashley installed.

The shop uses SF’s Sightglass coffee, and the ravenous who find their way through their doors can satiate hunger pangs with a selection of “sandos” (open-faced toasts), locally made bagels, English muffins and granolas.

1829 Mandela Parkway | www.kilovolt.coffee

Trouble Coffee Co.

The newest cafe on the block introduces a clinically clean and hipster-like vibe to the historically rich jazz and blues district. It’s the second location for Giulietta Carrelli’s Trouble Coffee (the other located in the Outer Sunset of SF), and it features a similar array of coffees and on-trend toasts and pastries.

Minimalism is the design axiom here—there’s no written menu, no bathroom and a no-electronic-devices rule staunchly enforced. Consider yourself warned. But once you get over that shock, by all means, enjoy a cuppa and even purchase some phenomenal Trouble Coffee Co. bagged beans, sold under names like the Hammer and Elbow Grease.

1545 Willow Street | www.trouble.coffee


Other Food-Centered Businesses to Check Out

Photo courtesy of People’s Kitchen Collective

People’s Kitchen Collective

One of the most vibrant and engaging organizations in Oakland, PKC is a dream come to life by Kuratomi Bhaumik, Jocelyn Jackson and Saqib Keval that merges art, food, activism and social justice. “As a collective that centers the lived experience of black and brown peoples, we stand at the fire and stir up change, dedicated to eliminating all structures of racism, sexism, imperialism and classism,” its website reads.

Volunteers and members are committed to using local organic ingredients and sharing meals with as many people as they can, whether that be through their free community meals, education outreach programs or various dinner series that brings people in the community together to address social and political issues. Sign up for their newsletter to stay up to date with all their happenings.

Various locations | www.peopleskitchencollective.com

Mandela Grocery Cooperative

Adrionna Fike helms this groundbreaking (and, eventually, expanding) worker-owned co-op offering health-conscious food at affordable prices. The grocery sells organic and conventional produce from small local farms and dairy makers, meat from nearby ranches and wholesome packaged foods

Mandela Grocery Cooperative looks for ways to make eating more affordable by offering a smaller but higher-quality array of products, which, in turn, allows them to keep their prices affordable. It helps in-need customers with forward-thinking food-subsidy programs, such as Fresh Creds, as well as a federal grant that gives 50 percent off of fresh produce, frozen fruits and other goods without added sugars.

1430 7th Street | www.mandelafoods.com

Urban Farms

West Oakland is alive with locally owned urban farms—or “farmlettes,” as they’re known. Green spaces like City Slicker Farms, Bottom’s Up Community Garden, West Oakland Woods Farm, Fleet Farming Oakland and others are not only building community but also planting the seeds for healthier eating habits.

Some of the farms, like West Oakland Woods Farm and Fleet Farming Oakland, also help out-of-work individuals (including ex-inmates) find agricultural employment opportunities. For those who want a deeper dive into West Oakland’s newfound urban farms, check out the work of Pulitzer Prize–winning author Preston Gannaway's The Farms of West Oakland.

Last Update: December 07, 2021

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Matt Charnock 27 Articles

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