By Gabi Moskowitz
It seems like a fair assumption that, for a food lover, being a chef is an ideal job. And, while I think most chefs would agree with that statement, the ones who work in professional kitchens aren’t likely to be found eating in a kitchen on the clock. Tasting, yes, of course — to assure food quality — but for restaurant chefs, evening eating usually happens at the very end of the night.
I once interviewed Andrew Zimmern, of Bizarre Foods on the Travel Channel, and he told me about his favorite late-night snack: challah cut into circles with a biscuit cutter, smeared with schmaltz, and topped with anchovies rolled with capers. It was a favorite snack of his grandmother’s, and today it brings him comfort.
This got me thinking that some of our favorite chefs might have late-night comfort foods of their own to share. So I asked them: when the customers are gone, the kitchen has been wiped down, and you are done for the night, what do you feel like eating? Here’s what they had to say.
Chef: Richie Nakano
You might know him from: Hapa Ramen, and the soon-to-be-opened Hapa restaurant. (See photo above)
When the night is over, the customers have gone home, and the kitchen is wiped clean, what do you like to eat?
“I used to eat anything that was available late night, mostly junk. A piece of pizza, or a burrito at 3 a.m. always seems like a good idea at the time but it never sits well the next day. Nowadays I try to make better choices…lately it’s been avocado toast. I mash up half an avocado with lemon, olive oil, salt, and togorashi and put it on a piece of toasted levain with some baby kale. It’s filling and not too heavy. If I’m drunk, I’ll douse it in hot sauce.”
Keep an eye out: Hapa is opening soon, at 2293 Mission St. in San Francisco, “So I’ll be eating a lot of avocado toast in the near future,” says Nakano.
Chef: Michael Voltaggio
You might know him from: ink. and ink sack, both in Los Angeles (8360 Melrose Avenue) plus that time he won the sixth season of Top Chef.
When the night is over, the customers have gone home, and the kitchen is wiped clean, what do you like to eat?
“I’m usually overloaded from tasting all night. I eat simple comfort foods like ramen, a panini, or an entire pint of ice cream. “
Keep an eye out: Voltaggio is starring in a new food show, Breaking Borders on the Travel Channel, likely premiering next Spring.
Chef: Liza Shaw
You might know her from: Previously at A16, Shaw now runs her very own shop — Merigan Sub Shop, at 636 2nd St. in San Francisco, specializing in quality East Coast Italian-inspired subs.
When the night is over, the customers have gone home, and the kitchen is wiped clean, what do you like to eat?
“Well, first of all, I almost never really eat during the day. I’ll taste throughout the day, to make sure everything is of quality, but I don’t eat an actual meal. I’ll grab a slice of mortadella, or some remnants of a salad, and always one meatball. I graze. Every so often, if I get really hungry, I’ll stand in the dish room, facing the dining room, so I can keep an eye on things, and eat a salad.
At the end of the day, I usually want something Asian — something totally different from what we do in the shop. I’m a huge fan of Nojo (231 Franklin Street). The food is bright and punchy. I helped open a branch of A16 in Tokyo, and I just fell in love with the flavors. I crave them, and Nojo satisfies that craving.”
Keep an eye out: The chocolate chip cookies at Merigan’s were recently declared some of the best in the city, so be sure to scoop some up the next time you stop in for a sub.
Chef: Dennis Lee
You might know him from: Namu Gaji (499 Dolores St.), and Smokestack (2505 3rd St.).
When the night is over, the customers have gone home, and the kitchen is wiped clean, what do you like to eat?
“I usually eat something I call a ‘minoko sandwich’. I cook an okonomiyaki in a small egg pan, so it’s just the right size for a sandwich, and then I eat it on brioche. It’s easy, since all the stuff is already out from service, and it’s delicious.”
Keep an eye out: Word on the street is that Lee is opening a noodle shop in the Dogpatch in the near future.
Got a tip for The Bold Italic? Email tips@thebolditalic.com.
