This article is part of I Love San Francisco, a feature series of essays that highlight what makes San Francisco iconic and irreplaceable.

The air inside AA Bakery and Cafe on Stockton Street in San Francisco’s Chinatown is filled with the smell of freshly baked pineapple buns, pork floss rolls, and curry puffs. The glass-fronted display cases are like a treasure chest, beckoning you over.

Craving something sweet to fight off the fog outside, I grab a Hong Kong egg tart and a banana mochi roll with my tea. I sink into a chair, surrounded by a group of lively men chatting in Cantonese, and take my first bite. The buttery crust and silky custard hit me right in the senses.

As I enjoy the tart, I remember Golden Gate Bakery just around the corner — famous for their daan egg tarts and unpredictable hours. But honestly, I prefer AA Bakery. It’s more affordable and has a wider selection. There are other “Chinatowns” around the city — on Clement, Irving, and Noriega streets — but the one on Stockton will always feel like home. I grew up here, and when I need a good wander and some tasty eats, it’s where I head.

Not much has changed since I was a kid, trailing my mom down Stockton Street. She’d stop to inspect crabs scuttling in bins and threaten to buy bitter melons for my health. These days, the street still has fresh ingredients, exotic fruits, and vegetables at great prices. On Sundays, the place is pure chaos — everyone’s hunting for the best deals. My advice? Keep moving. Shopping here isn’t for the faint of heart, but on weekdays, it’s perfect for a leisurely stroll and some ingredient shopping.

Take a walk with me

What I love about Chinatown is the way it hums with its own rhythm, a blend of steaming bamboo baskets, laughter spilling from tea houses, and the scent of fresh pastries curling through the air. Red lanterns sway above alleyways that have held a thousand stories, and every corner offers something unexpected. Let’s go on a walk together:

Over on Grant Street, the shops are a magnet for tourists, selling everything from colorful trinkets to toys. As I wander through, I spot the Wok Shop. The shelves are crammed with woks, pots, and pans, but the staff are super helpful and will make sure you find exactly what you need. Just across the street, the Chinatown Kite Shop is a little gem, with kites that are almost as much art pieces as toys.

Next stop: Red Blossom Tea. I can’t leave without picking up a few bags of their Oriental Beauty tea. It’s a Taiwanese tea with a sweet, honey-like aroma and fruity undertones. Why is it so sweet? Thanks to leafhoppers! These little insects bite into the plant, and the sweetness is its defense mechanism. Teas like this can change how you think about tea, so I highly recommend stopping by Red Blossom, Vital Tea Leaf, or one of the other local shops for a tasting.

Of course, I can’t leave Chinatown without grabbing dim sum for the family. There’s Hang Ah Tea House, the oldest dim sum spot in the U.S., with their wontons and crispy turnip cakes. The Good Mong Kok Bakery and Delicious Dim Sum are also great choices, but today I’m in the mood for House of Dim Sum.

Afterward, I pass by Bow Bow Lounge, which has seen its fair share of late-night karaoke sessions. I’ll always remember Mama Candy, the beloved bartender who retired in 2021, but the place is still going strong with karaoke every night — truly a San Francisco rite of passage. For a strong drink, head to LiPo Lounge for one of the most potent mai tais in the city, or swing by Red’s Place, Chinatown’s oldest dive bar.

Red wrappers from firecrackers, a reminder of the recent Lunar New Year celebrations, blow gently in the breeze. From the Lunar New Year Parade to the Autumn Moon Festival to the Night Markets held every second Friday, Chinatown really knows how to throw a street party.

I look up and spot the mural of Bruce Lee, Chinatown’s hometown hero. Born here, he’s a legend across generations. The Chinese Historical Society of America (CHSA) has an exhibit about his life and legacy, and it’s definitely worth a visit.

As I wander around, I can’t help but notice the iconic Chinatown Gate, a true symbol of this neighborhood’s rich history. Built in 1970, it marks the entrance to Chinatown, welcoming visitors with its beautiful, traditional design.

But even more interesting is the history behind two famous buildings built in 1906 — just after the earthquake. The Sing Chong Building and the Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall were constructed to prevent the city from moving Chinatown to a less desirable location. These buildings, still standing today, are a reminder of how Chinatown fought to keep its roots firmly planted in San Francisco.

I keep walking and find myself in Ross Alley, a beautiful cobblestone lane strung with colorful lanterns, home to the Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Company. I grab a free sample — still warm — and watch as a woman folds the flat cookie disks into the familiar shape. Next door, I stop at By Me Boba Tea for a quick treat. Chinatown’s alleys are full of surprises, and Waverly Place, with its painted balconies, and Michelin-starred Mr. Jui’s, are among my other favorites.

I pass by Edge on the Square, a new community-based art space that opened in 2023. I need to sign up for one of their events — though I missed the Malaysian cooking class, I know they always have something new to check out. I end my walk at Portsmouth Square, the spot where San Francisco began.

People are playing chess around tables, while older folks practice tai chi in perfect unison. Nearby, kids screeching on the play structures remind me that this square is always buzzing with life.

Walking through Chinatown feels like stepping into a different world. From the vibrant food scene to the quirky shops and lively alleyways, every corner offers something new to discover. It never gets old for me. Dim sum hunting, savoring a warm egg tart, or just soaking in the history and culture, Chinatown never disappoints. It’s a place where you can wander for hours, always finding something that makes you smile.

Vita Hewitt is a Bay Area-based photographer, filmmaker, journalist, and writer.

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