Written and Photographed by Suzanne Barnecut
Back in the 1950s, my grandfather and his two brothers leased some land and built a large A-frame cabin in the South Lake Tahoe basin, just at the foot of Mount Tallac. The brothers made a perfect cabin-building trifecta: they were an architect, an electrician, and a roofer (also native San Franciscans). As a result, I’ve spent time in Tahoe every year of my life and in all seasons — long enough to witness a marsh transform into a meadow and, later, into a thick grove of young Aspens. I could hardly love a place more.
My favorite time of year to head to the mountain is actually late summer/early fall, when it’s often still warm but when there’s a chance of an afternoon thunderstorm. As summer gives way to fall, the leaves begin to change color, the salmon swim up Taylor Creek, and the air has that pre-snow bite.
South Shore, where I’ve spent the most time, tends to be known for its crowds and the casinos at Stateline, Nevada. It’s got a sprawling, weather-beaten appearance with retro signage, tourist traps, and weird alpaca gift shops that can make it easy to overlook its gems. Although Lake Tahoe itself is massive, nothing is ever too far away. It’s a one- to two-hour drive around the lake’s perimeter, which is not much longer than a Muni ride across town.
These are just a few of my favorite spots, enjoyable even after peak season.
Just above Lake Tahoe on the south side are many other smaller alpine lakes, some of which are difficult to reach. The Angora Lakes are two of Tahoe’s better-kept secrets, but after I had a discussion with a few locals, the consensus was that they’re a secret worth sharing. The Angoras are really a must-see for anyone who has a little extra time and energy. An unmarked single-lane road (with some scary turnoffs and great views) leads back to the no-outlet parking lot for the lakes. From there it’s a semi-rugged half-mile hike past the smaller, placid lower lake to the upper lake. The terrain is rocky, but if you walk carefully, it’s manageable in sandals. Among its draws for day-use guests are the homemade sandwiches and fresh lemonade as well as rowboat, kayak, and paddleboard rentals (through mid-September). If you can make your way to the sheer cliffs and you’re daring enough, take a high jump in to the water below, as many teenagers do.
To find the lakes, turn off Highway 89 into the Fallen Leaf Campground (directly across from the Tallac Historic Site). Turn left onto Tahoe Mountain Road (where there’s a sign for the lakes). At the next fork, veer left again for Angora Ridge Road, which is unmarked. If you find yourself heading into a residential area, you’ve gone the wrong way. (Once Angora Ridge Road is closed for the winter, the lakes are still accessible, but the hike is roughly three miles longer.)
Perhaps one of the most popular beaches around the lake, Sand Harbor is also one of the most beautiful. Located on the East Shore, this Nevada state park offers multiple swimming options, including many secluded spots off the Memorial Point Trail. The winding, wooden-planked pathways are easy hikes that offer stunning views and great photo ops. There’s also an on-site grill, visitor center, and outdoor amphitheater. I like going to Sand Harbor in the late summer for its annual Shakespeare Festival, where an evening show, picnic on the sand, and a bottle of wine make for a midsummer night’s dream, indeed.
The Red Hut Café has become so popular that there are now six locations in the Tahoe/Reno region. I prefer the original outpost along Highway 50. It’s kitschy and cozy, and the staff (many of whom are there year after year) consistently serve the best breakfast. Don’t miss the waffles and hash browns. They are 100% classic, homemade perfection.
On the South Shore, the Camp Richardson Ice Cream Parlor is hands down the best stop for a cone. There’s usually a long line between Memorial Day and Labor Day weekends. The ice cream is not made in-house, but the parlor dishes up loads of old-fashioned charm and outrageously generous scoops. On the North Shore, Cable Car Ice Cream is equally quirky and charming and, what’s more, offers San Francisco’s own Bud’s Ice Cream.
The California-Nevada border divides the lake in such a way that there’s gambling on both the north and south shores. Each end of the lake has a handful of casinos to choose from, but perhaps the most interesting (not to mention photogenic) spot is the Cal Neva Resort, Spa & Casino, once owned by Frank Sinatra. Although the resort no longer gives tours of its bootlegging tunnels or the stage where Sinatra and his Rat Pack pals once crooned to Marilyn Monroe, the Kennedys, and the mafia, the casino is arguably the classiest and most storied establishment in which to drink and gamble.
Sometimes it’s fun to stop at a lakeside grill for a Rum Runner or a Wet Woody or perhaps for something more classic, such as at the Sunnyside Restaurant & Lodge on the West Shore, which is nearly an institution. And, of course, drinks are always free for gamblers.
However, in recent years the local brewing scene has expanded to include four main breweries that are open year-round. Tahoe Mountain Brewing Co. opened in 2012, joining FiftyFifty Brewing Co. (located in nearby Truckee) on the North Shore. The oldest brewpub in the region is The Brewery at Lake Tahoe, located in South Lake Tahoe. Just down the road is also Stateline Brewery & Restaurant, conveniently located in Heavenly Village, a stone’s throw from the South Shore casinos. Stateline brews four beers in-house and offers an additional eight West Coast microbreweries on tap. I can personally vouch for its Whiteout Wit.
Winter is perhaps the only time of year when the lake itself is not a central attraction. As Lake Tahoe is decidedly cold year-round, enjoying it by boat or bicycle is sometimes a safer bet for the hesitant swimmer. Rent boats or jet skis, or take a cruise on the Tahoe Queen paddle wheeler, from the Ski Run Marina. Kayak tours, rentals, and lessons are available through Kayak Tahoe, which offers a particularly cool tour to Emerald Bay and the unique Vikingsholm mansion (open until the end of September). Alternately, you could take the forest bike trail, which is paved and off the highway and passes by several beaches, historic sites, and the south shores of the lake. Rent from family-owned and family-operated Anderson’s Bicycle Rental.
Truckee River Raft Company offers raft rentals (with a shuttle back to the parking lot) through September, weather permitting. Depending on the water level each year, the “rafting” experience can sometimes be a bit more like floating or drifting. The easy five-mile stretch takes two to three hours, alcohol is allowed, and the trip concludes at the popular River Ranch Lodge & Restaurant. In fact, this juncture is where the actual rapids begin, for more experienced rafters.
After Labor Day, Apple Hill is a really great stop on the way to or from Tahoe when you’re traveling up Highway 50. Many of the ranches are open year-round (and also sell pumpkins and Christmas trees!), but the early fall is when most of the produce, bakeshops, restaurants, rides, and attractions are open. High Hill Ranch is an easy stop off the freeway, and the apple donuts (among other things) are amazing.
Hotels around the lake tend to run high. With a group of friends or family, cabin rentals are the way to go. Try renting through VacationRentals.com, Red Awning, or TahoeCabinRentals.com. Campers should check out D. L. Bliss State Park for beach or forest camping, open through the end of September. Beach access and trails (with notable destinations such as a large balancing rock and the highest-elevation lighthouse in the United States) remain open for hiking and snowshoeing.
Design by Sasha Gainor.
