When you’re in North Beach, you’re surrounded by some of the city’s most iconic landmarks. Living here is like living in a postcard, with the neighborhood’s rich history, good food and a community vibe that is unparalleled in a big city. To me it’s the heart of San Francisco.
I live on a side street lined with trees about halfway between Fisherman’s Wharf and Washington Square Park. I turn the corner to catch the 8 bus, and I see Coit Tower; and if I head a couple of blocks in the opposite direction, I’m face to face with a cable car. I live on the “quieter” side of North Beach. Instead of late-night booze-induced shouting, I hear foghorns and the occasional cable car, and if the wind is just right, sea lions barking. And while there are tourists everywhere, they are a constant reminder of how lucky I am to be here.
In North Beach, you can’t go a block without seeing a small Italian flag painted on a light post—a nod to the neighborhood’s early inhabitants and a reminder that your next Italian meal is never far away.
My favorite spot for authentic pasta is the Italian Homemade Company on Columbus and Greenwich (they’ve since expanded to Cow Hollow). While it’s not the oldest Italian restaurant in North Beach, their food is the stuff of legends. Try the lasagna, meatball cassoni or pesto gnocchi. You won’t leave hungry or disappointed.
Every good meal should be followed by an even better dessert. Just around the corner from the Italian Homemade Company is Victoria Pastry. When I visited the city as a kid, my grandparents would let me out of the car and circle the block while I ran in and got a box of cookies from Victoria, always tied with a string. Now I try to limit it to one or two cookies—or if I’m being honest, a slice of princess cake.
No neighborhood would be complete without its neighborhood watering holes, and North Beach has no shortage of them. It’s no secret that both a good time and good drink can be had by wobbling one’s way down Grant Street. And while a storied bar like Vesuvio Cafe is great for out-of-town guests because of its eccentricity and proximity to the famed City Lights Bookstore, it’s not a typical spot where I head at the end of the day.
If I want to people-watch while sipping an affordable drink, I head to the Saloon or Gino & Carlo. If it’s to watch a game, I head to La Rocca’s Corner or NorthStar Cafe, and for a casual beer or wine, Mario’s Bohemian Cigar Store Cafe or Maritime Wine Tasting Studio. For something nearby but not at my house, I head to Sweetie’s Art Bar. I once called the bartender at Sweetie’s to see if I could have my friend from out of town (who was headed to a wedding and staying with me) drop my keys off there for me to pick up after work. If that doesn’t scream modern-day, real-life, West Coast Cheers, I don’t know what does.
If you’re looking for a little live entertainment to go with your cocktail, North Beach is home to Beach Blanket Babylon, Cobb’s Comedy Club and Bimbo’s 365 Club—all known to put on a good show.
One thing I love about North Beach is that the coffee shops are local and not franchise based (there’s a Starbucks on Bay Street and Taylor, but that’s about it). From the old-timers who sit and sip outside Caffe Trieste and Caffe Greco to the beans sold at Graffeo Coffee Roasting Company, Caffe Roma (not closed!), Beacon Coffee & Pantry, 901 Columbus or the quirky “Call if we are not here” Hole in the Wall Coffee, when it comes to coffee spots, North Beach is anything but basic. I’m writing this sitting at Cafe Francisco (at Powell and Francisco) right now. I come here to work often, and walking a block to get a plain-brewed cup of coffee at this quaint corner café brings me more joy than any Pumpkin Spiced Latte in a decorative holiday cup ever could.
All these places and many more make North Beach special, and while I never tire of climbing the steps to Coit Tower or sitting in Washington Square Park sipping my coffee under the steeples of Saints Peter and Paul Church, or hitting a tennis ball around and Joe DiMaggio Playground (Park), for me the best part of North Beach is that even in a big, vibrant city, the neighborhood of North Beach maintains its sense of community.
North Beach Neighbors, a local nonprofit, consistently updates locals on what’s happening in the neighborhood. I actually know my neighbors (and several other neighborhood dogs). During the holidays, there is a menorah and a tree-lighting ceremony in Washington Square Park followed by a free dinner at the SF Italian Athletic Club that is open to the public, for which various neighborhood restaurants provide the food. On Halloween, there is the North Beach Halloween Extravaganza, where kids can come to trick-or-treat. These are small-town activities offered in a big-city neighborhood.
Living in North Beach inspired me to take a vested interest in my community, and I currently volunteer/work at the Salesian Boys’ and Girls’ Club, which has been a providing a positive outlet for San Francisco youth since 1918.
While North Beach looks like a postcard, it’s what’s inside the neighborhood that’s truly lovely. After all, San Francisco wouldn’t be San Francisco without its heart.
