By Nicole Clark
I could not capture my love of this neighborhood in so few words, but here is my humble attempt. Potrero Hill is a residential salve for the tech-dense streets of SOMA and downtown San Francisco. It was once “up and coming” — like most Bay Area neighborhoods — but its unrivaled beauty and proximity to the Mission have turned it into a hot commodity. I feel lucky to live in this 1.5 square mile of land, and I have the uphill trek to thank for my constantly toned calves.
The intersection of 20th and De Haro feels like a promontory; visitors co-opt the view of the downtown skyline for engagement photos and headshots. The steepness of De Haro attracts daredevil bike races like the Red Bull Bay Climb, as well as local idiots who think it’s safe to speed down on an electric skateboard. From 20th and De Haro, you can actually see the horizon of Potrero Hill’s balmy microclimate. Every morning the fog floods in from the bay and forms a horseshoe around the hill. Here it is nearly always sunny.
You can get nearly anywhere in the city with only one or two transit transfers. The 22 and 19 busses along with the T line are your best friends. But why would you ever want to leave? Nearly every genre of cuisine can be found on 18th Street — from Vietnamese to French to Mexican to Mediterranean. Also brunch. Brunch is its own food group.
Sunflower’s lunch special is unrivaled, but their vermicelli bowl is my favorite order. It’s the best Vietnamese I’ve tasted outside of the Tenderloin, and it’s practically on my doorstep. Papito serves a Mexican-French fusion, best showcased in their duck confit tacos.
Goat Hill is for the pizza lovers and sourdough enthusiasts among us and is a favorite among the local children. (Yes, there are kids in San Francisco. If they’re not in Noe Valley, they’re here.) Chez Maman is the premier destination for a French-bistro atmosphere. Their French onion soup is unrivaled and comes with a dense layer of cheese coating on top. Their paninis are God’s gift to the planet, and their patio seating is the perfect docking spot for dog owners. Come at off hours, as the lines are frequently out the door.
Plow, too, is infamous for the insanity of its lines, especially on Sunday afternoons. It’s the city’s most established establishment of delicious “home cooking,” where butter is not the enemy and a food coma is almost certainly around the corner. Whatever you do, order something with the Plow potatoes in it. In fact, just order The Plow — lemon ricotta pancakes, Plow potatoes, eggs and a choice of bacon or sausage. All the (breakfast) food groups. On cold days, they offer blankets to patrons who are eating at the outdoor seating. Like Chez Maman, it’s an optimal spot for dog-watching. Come early and bring multiple friends to stand in shifts. They don’t take your phone number at the door — if you aren’t there when your name is called, you’ll miss your spot (and everyone around you will rejoice).
I saved the best docking spot for last: Farley’s, my favorite coffee shop in the city, not least for its atmosphere. The music is always delightfully hip and esoteric — not the sleepy Starbuck’s melodies of yesteryear. Their coffee is as good as their service, which is to say excellent. Every year they host a Halloween pet-costume contest. If you give a single shit about animals looking excessively cute, you’ll make it a point to show up.
Book lovers, rejoice — there are options every two blocks (literally). The Potrero Hill Library on 20th is quaint yet relatively sizeable. The community events are actually fun and more complex than your average story time, including movie screenings of Pixar classics, terrarium building and writing workshops. The second floor reveals a view of the city in full, with cozy armchairs facing floor-to-ceiling windows. It’s the quintessential reading spot (or if you’re my father, snoozing spot).
On 18th is Christopher’s Books, the homegrown indie bookstore that has survived the times by catering to its patrons. The storefront embodies the charm and personality of the neighborhood, and the people behind the counter are champions at suggesting your next favorite read. During Giants season, they often run a promotion offering discounts to people wearing Giants gear. They are a part of the city more than any big-box store (or online behemoth).
If you’re looking for an option halfway between a library and a bookstore, head to 17th Street. There you’ll find a Friends of the Library donation center and a tiny shack-like area with books that cost as little as $1. Afterward, swing over to Thee Parkside for bar munchies and cheap beer. Round out your night at the legendary live-music dive bar, Bottom of the Hill. The White Stripes are one of the many bands who got their start at this venue.
Potrero Hill is also home to community centers and volunteering opportunities. The Pantry, one of the many food banks the serves the city, opens its doors on every Friday afternoon to any San Franciscan resident in need — no questions asked. It operates out of St. Gregory’s Episcopal Church and is always in need of additional volunteers.
The community garden is near McKinley Square, a tiny park at the top of the hill where dogs can roam off leash. It might take you as long to get to the top as it takes to get off the waiting list. It’s welcome to the public — luckily, a green thumb isn’t required for you to sit at the picnic tables for lunch. Just don’t kill anything.
A little-known fact: Lombard is not San Francisco’s most crooked street. The prize actually goes to Vermont Street, a zigzagging plane that kisses McKinley Square. Every year Vermont is home to BYOBW — Bring Your Own Big Wheel — a stupidly dangerous race in which adults ride down Vermont Street on children’s trikes.
Like every neighborhood, Potrero Hill has its quirks and unsavory moments. Car break-ins are at a premium and the lack of speed bumps on the hill make crossing the street an ordeal. But there’s nowhere else in the city I’d rather live.
