FRIDAY FIVE
In a city born on hills and water, breathtaking views lie just over the next hilltop or off a windy coastal road in San Francisco. But food and drink with a view? There are options, to be sure, but a lot of them cater more to the tourist than the locals with mediocre food at a premium.
Here are five that do it right (thank goodness 1896 Cliff House is coming back with its ocean vistas), with views ranging from the Bay to the city skyline.
Waterbar
Chef Parke Ulrich was on the opening team at Waterbar in 2008 (and then took over as executive chef of Waterbar and neighboring EPIC Steak in 2013), boasting prime Bay and Bay Bridge views. With daily lunch and dinner, along with an everyday 2 p.m. to 5 p.m. happy hour and $1.05 oysters (12 p.m. to 5 p.m.), there are few better places in the City to take in seafood, a view, and a drink (sip the Sirena, a silky cocktail of California’s Gray Whale Gin, Oakland’s Den Sake, shiso and lime). Crudos and crab abound, but so do seasonal joys like shrimp-crusted bluefish over Carolina gold rice gumbo or a savory-sweet-creamy sourdough peach “tart” marked with watercress, whipped bellwether ricotta and almonds, doused in a warm guanciale (that’s cured pork jowl, my friends) vinaigrette.
// 399 The Embarcadero, www.waterbarsf.com
Charmaine’s
Since chef Jason Fox came on board at Villon (downstairs) and Charmaine’s (rooftop) at SF Proper Hotel, the food has stepped up to elevated-yet-approachable levels (he came from the amazing Michelin-starred Commonwealth, which we greatly miss). On the expansive rooftop space, Charmaine’s offers both indoor and (lots of) outdoor space, firepits, DJs and drinks created by BVHospitality (Trick Dog). Fox’s beautiful spread of Japanese breakfast for two (including smoked salmon, onsen egg and miso soup) is reason enough to come for brunch, set to striking views of the SF skyline. But with bar bites like pretzel rolls dipped in smoked pimento cheese or huitlacoche-stuffed potatoes (“corn smut”/fungus, earthy and delish) laden with Parmesan and pickled shallots, you might as well also come for the evening glow and twinkling lights. While it’s still in season, save room for strawberry s’mores.
// 45 McAllister Street, www.properhotel.com
Fish
In the city, we have gems like Hog Island Oyster Bar set right on the Bay. But just across Golden Gate Bridge lies one of our seafood greats, Fish in Sausalito, complete with fish market and outdoor picnic tables overlooking boats and the Bay. Co-owners Kenny Belov and Bill Foss opened Fish in 2004 with a welcome focus on sustainability and direct info on where all seafood is from. Thankfully, the dishes are also quality from this order-at-the-counter (expect lines each day). I have long been a fan of Fish’s brown beer-battered fish and chips, while delights like a black codfish reuben or Saigon salmon sandwich (Vietnamese banh-mi influenced) fill out the changing menu.
// 350 Harbor Dr, Sausalito; www.331fish.com
La Mar
Peru’s most famous chef, Gastón Acurio, opened his first U.S. restaurant in San Francisco over a decade ago, with a back deck gazing over ferries and boats rocking in the Bay. La Mar serves proper Peruvian feasts and pisco cocktails from brunch to dinner on the deck and in the massive dining room. Get schooled on the uniquely Asian influence and history of Peruvian food where Chifa (Chinese Peruvian) or Nikkei (Japanese Peruvian) dishes impart an Asia-meets-South-America vibe, unlike any other cuisine. Yes, there are beautiful ceviches but you shouldn’t miss the tiraditos: think sashimi enlivened with elements like chiles, lime, or coconut. Room-temp whipped potato causas topped with likes of Dungeness crab, avocado, and tomato, are another Peruvian standout and La Mar’s version will transport you straight to Peru, paired with their elegant Mosto Verde Sour, made with aromatic mosto verde pisco.
// Embarcadero Pier 1 ½, www.lamarsf.com
Palette Tea House
I recently wrote about the stunning Bay and Alcatraz views and top-notch Mexican food and cocktails at brand new Barrio Ghirardelli Square. But a couple of doors away Palette Tea House has been also delivering killer Chinese food with Bay views. from that outdoor patio and glass-walled bar since early 2019. Owners of legendary dim sum destination Koi Palace and Outer Richmond’s Dragon Beaux run the place and even with pandemic staffing challenges, they continue to play with new dishes this summer, unafraid to make it creatively decadent. When in season, expect the likes of caviar on taro puffs, truffles on rice or sea urchin in noodles. Signatures, like Insta-worthy black swan taro puffs or lush, roasted Iberico pork “cha siu” with compressed apples in cognac glaze, feel celebratory whether its brunch/dim sum or dinner.
// 900 North Point Street, Ste. B201, https://paletteteahouse.com
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