I visited Treasure Island for the first time in my life a few months ago. Having lived in San Francisco for many years, I wouldn’t exactly call this spot a tourist mecca; It’s been nearly three decades since the U.S. Navy vacated the island, and we’re still shy of 3,000 people living there.
They’re working hard to grow that number: A major redevelopment plan calls for all residences to be within a 10-minute walk of all basic amenities. But what’s Treasure Island like today, and how did it evolve into this?
Treasure Island is an entirely artificial creation. In the 1930s, engineers piled mud that was dredged from the bay onto a shoal next to Yerba Buena Island; Tons of bay muck was transformed into a 400-acre plot to house the Golden Gate International Exposition, the island’s World’s Fair site. It has since been home to a naval station, psychiatric ward, and playground for Hollywood films.
Today, Treasure Island is a mishmash of urban development and eerie desolation. You can enjoy casual wineries and flea markets, yet also encounter abandoned military buildings and a Job Corps campus. It’s like stepping into a parallel universe where past, present, and future collide in the most unconventional ways.
I began my adventure at the newly-opened Ferry Terminal at the foot of the historic Treasure Island Administration Building — once the centerpiece of an old Pan Am airport, which now features Art Deco-style Gold Bar Whiskey Distillery.
Between the historical grandiosity of the building and the tastefully vintage-inspired interior, Gold Bar Distillery feels like somewhere where you would run into someone from the Rat Pack. There are red velvet curtains draped from the ceiling to the floor, gold embellishments throughout the bar area, and details that bring you back to that moment when aviation history was made — even though you weren’t actually there.
We chatted with Gold Bar Whiskey’s director of marketing, Sam Thumm, who seemed to have a personal relationship with every person who walked in. He showed us around the venue and gave us the lowdown on Gold Bar’s partnerships with the San Francisco 49ers — a signal of true cohesiveness with mainland culture.
Gold Bar’s menu is whiskey-oriented, but they also do gin, and cocktail flights in case you’re as indecisive as I am. They have a full, yet humble kitchen, with dishes inspired by the history of Treasure Island and the building.
Sam says they want to recreate the moment when the building housed the energetic enthusiasm of aviation history in the making, while also satisfying the more modern flavor palette of San Francisco diners.
“The style of travel wasn’t what it is today. It was truly a white tablecloth, first-class experience,” says Sam.
After Gold Bar, we walked 15 minutes down the coastline to our brunch spot: the bohemian-vibes waterfront restaurant Mersea. The restaurant is housed in shipping containers and borders an open-air whimsically designed garden area. The atmosphere and the staff are relaxed, but it’s apparent in the food that there’s a lot of tender love, care, and high-quality ingredients put into it.
Executive Chef & Co-Owner Parke Ulrich described his menu as comfort food: “I wanted everything on the menu to evoke your childhood in some way or another.”
While I was undeniably comfortable eating a 10/10 breakfast croissant and sneaking bites of my brother’s poke bowl, I would be remiss not to mention that Mersea’s cuisine is definitely more elevated than any comfort food I’ve experienced before that day.
After brunch, our server brought over an unsolicited round of the best affogato I’ve ever had. We indulged while watching The Jaz Force group in the central garden area. They play jazz, R&B, classic rock, and pop music every Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. Between the live music and the Golden Hour bar that Mersea set up in collaboration with Gold Bar Distillery, you could easily pass the whole afternoon here.
While I don’t expect the serene nature of the venue to be stripped away anytime soon, it will get more crowded. “The promenade over here will be full of people once some of the developments get underway,” Parke nods to the coastline, which sits only 30 feet from our table.
Considering the medley of ultra-tranquil ambiance, SF city skyline views, live entertainment, and top-notch fare, I’m shocked that the hordes of city folk haven’t already taken over. It feels like this might finally be my moment to be an early adopter.
Courtney Muro is a San Francisco-based content strategist, producer, designer, and creator.
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Here are some other Treasure Island attractions worth checking out:
The Treasure Island Museum
1 Avenue of the Palms #111, San Francisco, CA
Museum website
Here you’ll find artifacts, models, and interactive displays of the China Clipper debut, Pan Am’s Martin M-130 flying boat, which departed from Treasure Island to Hong Kong on March 29, 1939, marking the inaugural flight of regular transpacific airmail service and paving the way for future commercial air travel between the United States and Asia. The museum is free, quick, and hyper-relevant, giving you the perfect amount of background to enjoy your indulgence on a deeper-than-surface level.
‘TreasureFest’ Flea Market
Monthly, with the next one July 27–28
More details
TreasureFest, originally known as Treasure Island Flea, is a vibrant monthly festival held on the last weekend of each month on Treasure Island, San Francisco. Since its inception in 2011, this event has grown into a beloved local tradition that draws up to 20,000 visitors each weekend.
Treasure Island Wines
995 9th St #201, San Francisco, CA
Winery website
Established in 2007, Treasure Island Wines is one of the pioneering urban wineries in the area. The winery is situated in a repurposed military building on the island, offering views of the San Francisco skyline and the Bay Bridge.
Treasure Island Wines hosts wine release parties, food and wine pairings, and special holiday-themed events. It’s a great way for visitors to meet the winemakers and learn more about the wine-making process.
Sailing and paddleboarding
Visit the Treasure Island Sailing Centre
698 California Ave. Building 112, San Francisco, CA
The Treasure Island Sailing Centre offers sailing classes for all ages, as well as kayak and paddleboard rentals. It’s a creative way to experience the bay from the water and add a bit of adventure to your visit.
