Little Original Joe’s in the Marina has been a full house from the get-go in May. This is the latest outpost from siblings John and Elena Duggan, who have carried on the family’s long-standing tradition of Italian-American comfort food with a modern twist. Known for running the iconic Original Joe’s and its spots in North Beach, Daly City and West Portal, the Duggans have turned their focus to this stylish Marina location, bringing the same warmth that’s kept their other spots buzzing. What’s the “secret sauce” making the Duggan’s restaurants beloved?
General managers like Christian Canpos — who oversees Westlake but was at the new Marina LOJ’s in opening weeks — exemplify gracious hospitality, walking around checking in with guests, spreading welcome. Attentive staff, timely food and drinks, even Elena herself walking the floor when I dined at LOJ’s, confirm this is a hands-on team focused on hospitality first.
The new-ish space at 2301 Chestnut St. is bright and inviting with black-and-white checkered flooring, custom chandeliers, black leather booths and bustling bar. You’ll find the pastas and Italian-American fare of other OJ’s, also rotisserie chicken, ten pizzas in their unique style and, blissfully, a Parmigiana menu section.
Unique to the Marina, zucchini fries are dream bar food. Thinly-shaved, oh-so-delicately-fried zucchini strips make a striking mountain laden in shaved Parmigiano Reggiano, dipped in lemon basil aioli. Brilliant. So is a shaved Brussels sprouts salad tossed with toasted walnuts, green onion, pecorino romano cheese and lemon vinaigrette. Both dishes are gratifying yet light and airy.
While Joe’s has long nailed American-Italian classics like piccata, five versions of Parmigiana delights with a vegetarian mushroom Parmigiana just at this location. I go for spicy vodka Parmigiana, a lightly-breaded chicken cutlet layered with prosciutto, mozzarella and spicy vodka sauce, transporting me back to my teen Jersey years.
Among the pastas, casarecce spicy sausage ragu comforts, while unique-to-the-Marina is cacio e macha, a Roma-meets-Mexico play on cacio e pepe with Elena’s salsa macha over mafaldine pasta. California Dreamin’ is unexpectedly superior to any BBQ pizza ever. I usually pooh-pooh over-sauced BBQ pizzas with cheap-tasting smoked gouda. But they nail it: a nuanced blend of diced-up BBQ rotisserie chicken and sauce, mozzarella, gouda, cilantro, brightened by pickled jalapenos and red onion. Leftover slices were fab.
A mix of California and Italian wines parallel a fun cocktail menu with Negroni section. They nail Elena’s Espresso Martini featuring North Beach legend Graffeo’s espresso. Ditto the LOJ Pizza Martini, a savory sipper featuring Napa’s Hanson Habanero Vodka, Moletto Italian Tomato Gin, Dolin Blanc vermouth and garnish of pepperoni, stuffed black olive and pickled onion.
// Little Original Joe’s, 2301 Chestnut Street, www.littleoriginaljoes.com/loj-marina
Virginia Miller is a San Francisco-based food & drink writer.
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