By Melissa Small
The Western Addition vs. NOPA gentrification debate rages on, and at the center of it all is a restaurant that brings over 400 people a day to the neighborhood — the aptly named NOPA. As older businesses turn over and new ones move into the ‘hood, this restaurant keeps a steady drumbeat, running almost 24 hours a day.




NOPA’s chef, Laurence Jossel, runs a brigade of foodies dedicated to quality fare, from the pastry chef who gets up before the crack of dawn to the bartenders who go home in the wee hours.




WEREHAUS went behind the scenes with famed NOPA chef Laurence Jossel to get a closer look at the restaurant that is helping to define an emerging neighborhood.

The Bold Italic is a not-for-profit media organization, and we publish first-person perspectives about San Francisco and the Bay Area. We operate under a fiscal sponsorship of a 501(c)(3).
You can become a paid subscriber. Or donate. Or learn more about us.
