A ten-year anniversary is a big deal for any restaurant. To hit this milestone while closed in a global pandemic displays another level of endurance. In June 2021, Bluestem Brasserie turned 10 years old, opened in 2011 by gracious husband-wife duo, Stacy and Adam Jed (Stacy is president of Golden Gate Restaurant Association and has done much to advocate for local restaurants over these brutal two years).
Located in a prime spot just off Market Street near Union Square and Metreon, next to the Contemporary Jewish Museum, Bluestem has had the added struggle of being in an area that hasn’t begun to recover, historically reliant on downtown offices, shoppers, travelers, convention-goers and density of downtown foot traffic. Bluestem has long welcomed tourists without compromise, a place locals could also be proud of.
After being closed for over a year and a half, Bluestem opened its new market on November 10, lunch on November 26, and dinner this December. As I recently returned on a rainy December night (oh, the blessed rain), it was clear despite lots of “pandemic pivoting,” Bluestem remains a haven for locals and travelers alike. Adam confirms regulars have come back en masse, a heartening move. The revamped space remains a destination for groups, families and large tables tough to come by in SF.
A striking wood tree floor, white and night sky-colored walls and long wood tables flank still-existing booths and a sweeping staircase up to the mezzanine. The lofty space is refreshed, modern, clean, yet warm and inviting. The most dramatic change is to the right of the front counter (now stocking oysters, shellfish, etc.): a grocery lined with meats, jams, conservas, cheeses, breads, coffee, wines and other gourmand groceries and ingredients Bluestem uses in their menu or makes in-house. A smart idea for the area, it confirms Bluestem as an all-day, multi-purpose stop for lunch, bites, drinks, dinner and now, grab-and-go breakfasts, including cinnamon crunch babka muffins (!), cold pressed juices, wellness shots and house “bao” (more on that in a minute).
Over the decade and numerous visits to Bluestem, I’ve long valued their whole animal practices, grass-fed meats, warm service and memorable dishes, like former chef Francis Hogan’s NJ play on a Trenton pork roll, former chef Jeff Banker’s rotating pork chops, and thankfully still on board, Jeff’s wife Lori’s decadent cakes and desserts, like rum-soaked Honolulu hangover cake. This visit, I was most taken with her griddled babka in honey butter and pistachio cannoli cheesecake: fluffy, laden with orange, chocolate and pistachios, tasting exactly like cannoli. It made the Sicilian, Jersey girl in me quite happy.
Now that we’ve “had” dessert, on to savory dishes. The new menu is order-at-your-table via the Toast app. Coming out a little too swiftly if you order all at once — a win for those who need a quick meal, if less ideal for those of us who typically make dinner a night’s event — the app is such that you can add to the order as you’re ready for your next dish if you wish to slow it down.
Let’s get this out of the way: whether you order delivery, grab one to-go or start your meal with their Jewish deli-inspired bao, it’s worthy of being an iconic dish… the one I’m still thinking about. Under $10 with meat and vegetarian versions, it’s like a pupusa and a bao had a baby with slightly sour dough recalling a knish or other Jewish pastry. I’m partial to the cheeseburger-esque ground beef, cheese and pickles-filled bao.
Halibut crudo is the clean, bright starter showcasing diced sashimi with yellow pepper aguachile, avocado, cucumber, aïoli and dusting of fine herbs. A vegetable starter standout is chilled-roasted beets and their greens, stepped up over herb tahini with hazelnuts for crunchy contrast. Maybe the best small plate? Kimchi, roasted pepper, cilantro, Swiss cheese fritters dipped in gochujang aioli, given a kick from lime zest.
Since we’re on a starch kick, might as well add on a truffled grilled cheese, another wintery cheer-up layered with Point Reyes Toma cheese, truffles and Meyer lemon on sourdough. Also worthwhile, though maybe less gratifying, is the shrimp crab roll, dressed in Meyer lemon aïoli and Old Bay seasoning on a slim butter-toasted pan de mie roll.
While we’re still on bread, the dish that remains on-menu since pre-pandemic is brown butter cornbread, a buttery “must” for any cornbread, bread or Southern food fan. I didn’t dig into the entrees much as too many small plates and sandwiches were calling, but there are a couple protein and veggie entrees or the likes of spiced lamb meatballs in tomato, harissa and Moroccan olives, for those who want to veer protein-heavy.
To drink, the unexpected standout amid more creative cocktails like Land’s End (Gray Whale Gin, cacao, aquafaba, Green Chartreuse, lemon bitters, pamplemousse liqueur, bay leaf) is Adam’s Aunt Chrystl’s Austrian punsch. Based on the recipe his aunt made when they’d visit Austria, it’s a warm, beautifully spiced blend of STROH Austrian rum, red wine, orange juice, cinnamon and clove, the ultimate dram on a winter’s night.
Creative points go to a Cioppino Cocktail, nodding to the legendary dish created by Italian immigrants in San Francisco. The drink plays off a Bloody Mary or Clamato with blanco tequila, mezcal, salted tomato water, lime, honey, serrano pepper grapefruit syrup and clam juice, begging to be paired with a conservas platters, like Jose Gourmet razor clams or mackerel with lemon, aioli and garlic-rubbed bread. There are a few beers on draft, a range of local, California wines, mocktails (“free-spirited cocktails”) and dessert cocktails like White Russian twist, the Golden Dude (salted caramel coffee liqueur, salted caramel vodka, vodka, oat milk).
Bluestem and the Jeds have evolved not only with tough times, but with the demands of a swiftly-changing world. They’re providing more benefits and time off than ever for their employees, caring for staff and diners with the same humor and warmth I’ve long seen them display. Now, with their new market and evolved restaurant, they cover a range of all-day edible needs, feeling like a neighborhood restaurant, a homey welcome in the towering buildings of downtown.
// One Yerba Buena Lane, https://bluestembrasserie.com
