Few U.S. cities have a fraction of the world class bakeries that line San Francisco, a city that has led the baking renaissance of the past 20 plus years via Tartine Bakery’s Liz Pruiett and Chad Robertson, who inspired a whole new generation of artisanal bakers globally, from Japan to all over the U.S. since opening the original Tartine in 2002 (more on their influence here and in Vogue in 2013).
But the Bay Area has done the same since Berkeley’s legendary Gourmet Ghetto days in the 1970s-1980s when leaders like Acme Bread opened in 1983. But SF was a baking leader since the 1800s when famed Boudin Bakery established the city as the world’s sourdough capital — as it still is today — and when the likes of Filipino bakeries lined SoMa, as they do still in neighboring Daly City. But world-class bakeries cover our vast region, from Sonoma County to Oakland.
In SF proper, it’s densest: from James Beard award-winning Outstanding Baker in the country, Belinda Leong of B Patisserie, to unequaled Filipino, Malaysian, Korean and beyond pastries from young AAPI bakers with a three Michelin resume at Breadbelly, we have bakeries of every scope, scale and culture pushing boundaries I have still yet to see in my constant travels around the U.S. and globe.
While I had a mixed experience but promising highlights at the new Jewish Diaspora, Levantine-inspired Loquat bakery, these two new bakeries feel already poised to join our long list of bakery greats, of which any single one would top the “bests” in any city.
Juniper, San Francisco
Saint Frank has been one of my favorite local San Francisco coffee roasters and shops since Kevin Bohlin opened the original Polk Street location in 2013 (my Time Out interview with him). I’m a fan of their ethos, name, inspiration, and, of course, coffee, so when I heard they were opening a bakery, Juniper, with fine-dining pastry chefs, needless to say I was expectant.
Opening January 4, 2023, a few blocks down Polk Street from Saint Frank, Juniper has the potential to be named with our top bakeries. When Bohlin collaborated on a pop-up with pastry chef Andrea Correa (SF’s Parallel 37, who also worked at global fine dining legends, Noma and El Bulli), the idea for Juniper was born, the bakery run by Andrew Wolpa (formerly at 2 Michelin greats, Acquerello and Saison).
They bake numerous pastries and cookies, but the focus is choux, aka pâte à choux, pastry that puffs up when baked and can be filled. They go sweet with tiramichoux (tiramisu inspired), smores, caramel apple or the truly fabulous lemon juniper choux. It’s vibrantly tart, filled with lemon curd, herbaceous with juniper, gin and torched meringue on top.
But savory choux, especially parmesan anchovy, especially impress. More approachable than you’d expect, that fishy umami us anchovy fanatics chase is balanced by parmesan custard, onion powder and greens. There’s a vegetarian mushroom choux with red wine mushroom puree. Moist, dreamy orange pistachio olive oil cake tastes amazing even the next day.
Among an array of croissants, the Cubano croissant is a game-changer. Tasting it was like the moment I first tried baker Greg Mindel of Neighbor Bakehouse’s much-copied, but never-as-good “everything” croissant, a sigh-worthy melange of soft cream cheese, everything bagel spices and perfect flaky pastry (which is also sold at all Sightglass Coffee shops in SF, a longtime favorite I wrote about when still just in a garage in 2009). Tasting Juniper’s Cubano croissant is a “wow” moment, highlighting elements of one of my all-time favorite sandwiches, the Cubano — mojo-marinated pork, ham, mandolined pickles, whole-grain mustard — inside a superb, flaky croissant.
At Juniper, you’ll also find Saint Frank coffee classics, including their trend-setting kaffe tonic (which I wrote a feature on as Zagat editor in 2014). Only-at-Juniper Brother Sun and Sister Moon blends (tributing their — and our city’s — namesake, St. Francis) are sourced from Latin America and East Africa. Juniper features a monthly food and coffee pairing, while I anticipate their brunch and house ice cream. Loving the quality of what Bohlin and team have brought us over a decade now — partnered with all the talent he brought on at Juniper — I can only expect more great things ahead.
// 1401 Polk Street, www.juniper.cafe
Starter Bakery, Oakland
Starter Bakery’s twice-baked croissants, breads and kouign amann have been local coffee shop and farmers’ market staples since the business launched as a pop-up in 2010. Founder/head baker Brian Wood has long helmed this successful wholesale bakery operation supplying over 250 accounts around Northern California, while lucky Rockridge in Oakland is the site of his first cafe and bakery.
Opening March 4, 2023, it’s a large, 2,000-square-foot space focused on soothing neutrals, minimalist design, natural light and industrial bones. With a few outdoor seats and 24 inside, you can expect more creativity than wholesale allows at this now flagship Starter. From pastries, buns and loaves of sourdough to pies, sandwiches and salads, offerings will go beyond what you’ve tasted from Starter before, with only in-shop selections. Not beholden to wholesale’s double markup, they’re able to use even more decadent ingredients (like European butter) and a greater volume of them.
Coffee and espresso drinks are from Oakland’s RoastCo, ideal to pair with all manner of savory and sweet. Trying an initial few pastries, I could happily stay savory: a filling mini-quiche Lorraine showcases the classic French tart’s richness with cream, bacon and cheese in uber-flaky crust. A twice-baked ham and cheese croissant is more jam-packed per centimeter than the usual ham and cheese croissant, dense with the filling.
On the sweet(er) side, the hazelnut kouign amann stands out from other kouign amann with nutty crunch, as does a cardamom pistachio twist that would be right at home in Scandinavia. Zucchini chocolate loaf is another standout under nutty crumble. I’m so not a cake lover and it was hard not to finish this entire mini-loaf in one sitting, its sour whisper of dark chocolate, melding with nutty saltiness in a moist cake. Unexpectedly, it’s one of my very favorites here.
When I can return with more stomach room, chocolate babka brioche and passionfruit Madelines call to me. In the meantime, Starter is already easily one of Oakland/the East Bay’s best bakeries, a welcome permanent home for the longtime Bay Area favorite.
// 5804 College Avenue, Oakland; https://starterbakery.com
