The name has been debated, but anyone who took a high school Spanish class knows Los Feliz is pronounced fey-leece. It translates to “happy,” which describes many of us who are blessed to live here. Filled with a rich history, this neighborhood east of Hollywood has almost everything you need except a gym or fitness studio (can’t a gal get her cardio dance on?) — so there’s no reason to leave. You’d lose your parking spot anyway.
Walt Disney lived in Los Feliz and first drew Mickey Mouse at his uncle’s home, which was also in the ’hood. Frank Lloyd Wright built the famous Ennis House here. If you’re lucky, you’ll see blonde billboard goddess Angelyne selling T-shirts out of the trunk of her bubblegum-pink Corvette at the local Albertsons, while on certain nights you can catch her Earth Girls Are Easy costar, Jeff Goldblum, play jazz at Rockwell. There’s magic around every corner! Here are a few of the best spots to visit.
Good Luck Bar
Everyone has a “first date bar,” the go-to spot for meeting Tinder profiles in the flesh. The Good Luck Bar was mine. It’s a dimly lit place with red vinyl booths and The Smiths playing on the jukebox — more like an opium den than a bar. Or, better yet, it’s Big Trouble in Little China meets a bordello. The cocktails have an Asian-Tiki theme, with names like Potent Potion and Fists of Fury. As per the aforementioned tradition, my first date with my now-boyfriend was here; we discovered we lived a block away from each other and got freaked out. He would later tell me how he adorably nicknamed Los Feliz “The Feels.”
The Vista Theater
Built in 1923, this art-deco-meets-Egypt theater will transport you to a time when architectural appreciation was part of the cinema experience. The first time I went to Vista was a few years before I moved to LA. I came for a meet and greet with Cassandra Peterson (aka Elvira: Mistress of the Dark), during which I drunkenly lost my camera only to have it retrieved by Elvira herself. This isn’t the only historic theater in the area, either. The Vista’s sister theater, the Los Feliz 3, is just a few blocks away on Vermont. Both screen new films and are only $6.50 for matinees and $9.50 for evening shows. Fun trivia: B-movie director Ed Wood had an office directly above the Vista.
Tiki-Ti
Opened in 1961 by the late great Ray Buhen, one of L.A.’s O.G. tiki bartender masters, a visit to this tiny, always crowded bar is a must. The real problem is having to choose from the massive 94-count cocktail list. My favorite is the Bonnie and Clyde, a concoction of lime juice, rum, gin, passion, and sweeteners. The drinks aren’t cheap — they’ll set you back $10–$15 a pop — but well worth it. You won’t need that many to get a good buzz going either.
H Coffee House
Coffee chains like Starbucks and Coffee Bean bookend Los Feliz Village, so it’s a shame there aren’t more than a couple of independent cafes in the ’hood. H Coffee House, which opened last year, is a cute bungalow-style place attached to the popular Home restaurant. It offers cold brews, espressos, teas, and tasty pastries in a cozy setting ideal for writing or catching up with friends.
Murder House
Is a neighborhood really complete without a ghost story? In Los Feliz, there’s the LaBianca house, which was the scene of one of the grisly Manson murders in 1969. And then there’s the Los Feliz Murder House — or Murder Mansion — which attracts ghost hunters, murder groupies, and even crime scene picnickers. On the night of December 6, 1959, Dr. Harold Perelson murdered his wife Lillian with a ball-peen hammer and severely beat his oldest daughter Judye, who was able to escape and call for help. Perelson then killed himself by drinking acid. Two younger children survived unharmed. Detectives never settled on a motive, although, supposedly, a copy of Dante’s Divine Comedy was found in the couple’s bedroom, opened to “Canto 1” (which begins, “Midway upon the journey of our life / I found myself within a forest dark, / For the straightforward pathway had been lost”). Adding to the creepiness is the fact that a year after the murders, the house was purchased by a couple who intended to use it for storage but never moved in, and never moved out any of the Perelsons’ belongings either. In 1994, the couple’s son inherited the house and kept it in the same state. Passersby (or more likely trespassers) have reported seeing an old Christmas tree in a window with unopened presents beneath.
Fred 62
A friendly diner that’s open 24 hours is a blessing. For Los Feliz, that place is Fred 62, which has been around since 1997. Its crunchy macaroni and cheese balls will bring joy to your mouth. The next time an eclipse comes around, order a couple of mimosas and enjoy the view from the patio like I did one glorious summer night.
Skylight Books
Forget the convenience of your Amazon Prime account for once and head over to Skylight Books to snag a novel from your wish list. Check out the special events calendar to see if your favorite writer is in town. You might also spot a cameo from Franny, the store’s resident kitty.
Wacko Soap Plant and La Luz de Jesus Gallery
You’ll most likely be able to find something for anyone’s birthday at Wacko. A massive collection of colorful coffee table books, kitschy gifts, and funky housewares make up this 6,500-square-foot space. Make sure to stop by the La Luz de Jesus Gallery inside, which has a constant rotation of the best in lowbrow art.
Really good Italian
One thing noticeably absent in L.A.’s diverse culinary scene is our own Little Italy. There used to be predominantly Italian neighborhoods — one where Olvera Street now exists, for example — but many of the families moved out and closed their businesses before a proper Little Italy enclave could form. I’ve always longed to live in an area where I can easily dine on gnocchi or pick up a pound of Mortadella. With several amazing Italian spots on Vermont and Hillhurst, my Italian bloodline is happy and satiated. Little Dom’s is prime for pizza and celeb-spotting, while Trattoria Farfalla and il Capriccio, two family-owned restaurants, will leave you in a satisfied carb coma. Share a Pizza Rosa at Palermo and grab an Il Rocco with the works and a bag of burrata at Rocco’s Italian Market & Deli.
Vintage shops galore
If you’d rather spend your hard-earned cash money on an interesting vintage piece than on something at H&M, Los Feliz is the perfect place to go for an afternoon of secondhand shopping. There’s an array of vintage stores on every block. Hit up SquaresVille, Co-op 28, Cherry Pick Vintage, Meowdy, PopKiller, and Una Mae’s. Replay Vintage took the place of X-Girl, Kim Gordon’s store that also carried Sofia Coppola’s Milk Fed line back in the ’90s and early 2000s. Go down a bit further to Hollywood Boulevard and spend some time perusing the jaw-dropping collections at Vintage Vortex.
The Dresden
The Dresden has appeared in many movies but is most famous for a scene in 1996’s Swingers that features husband-and-wife singing duo Marty and Elayne. You can still catch them today crooning the old classics.
Casita del Campo
When I lived an hour north of LA, I’d never hesitate to trek to Casita del Campo — located on the Hyperion side of Los Feliz — whenever I had a craving for chips and salsa. To this day I still haven’t found anything better in town, and I’m a true chips and salsa connoisseur. Weekends are busy with regulars and ticket-holders waiting for the popular drag comedy shows held in the basement theater.
Griffith Park and the Griffith Observatory
For nature-loving nerds, Griffith Park offers hiking trails and scenic views. Explore the Old Zoo and its abandoned animal cages. Then head over to the Griffith Observatory, where you can not only gaze upon the stars but also recreate James Dean’s iconic scenes in Rebel Without a Cause — or, my personal favorite, Keanu Reeves in Paula Abdul’s “Rush, Rush” video.
Got a tip for The Bold Italic? Email tips@thebolditalic.com.
