Anyone connected to cultural roots outside of the U.S. most likely has an amazing Thanksgiving spread that goes well beyond dry turkey and limp canned-green-bean casserole. Maybe it’s spicy and marinated banchan for Korean Americans or huge trays of lumpia and pancit for Filipinx Americans. For my Chinese American family, it’s all about meats from Cantonese barbecue joints — usually specifically ordered from Cheung Hing in San Francisco.
This meat feast often includes roast pork belly (siu yuk) that has a thick crispy skin akin to chicharrones, honey-barbecued char siu (Chinese barbeque pork), and Chinese-style roasted turkey (fo gai). The turkey, always with crispy skin, is often seasoned with Chinese five-spice powder and a sweet glaze. Sometimes it comes with a side of equally tasty gravy. Mind you, this is all in addition to the homemade conventionally oven-roasted turkey, mashed potatoes, and other traditional Thanksgiving foods. We eat everything side by side on our plates, sticky rice as the Chinese American neighbor to the bread stuffing.
Now that we’ll have to scale down to a tiny pandemic Thanksgiving this year due to recent Covid-19 surges, I realize I took for granted that a relative would magically show up with a stack of these takeout boxes at our big family gatherings. If I want Chinese turkey this year, I’ll have to get it myself (or ask my parents to get it, pretty please). While the plethora of Chinese turkey choices in the Bay speaks to our sizable presence spanning back generations, it can be difficult to keep track of what eateries are open, closed, not offering their usual turkey this year, or had a van crash into the front window (see the first listing below).
Sign up for The Bold Italic newsletter to get the best of the Bay Area in your inbox every week.
I called around to check in on these restaurants known for their barbeque meat. Lam Hoa Thuan on Irving Street said over the phone, “This year we don’t do it.” Hing Lung BBQ in San Bruno said, “We don’t know yet. Maybe call next week.” A couple of old faithfuls gave me a straight “no,” though it’s possible my mixture of English and terrible-to-nonexistent Cantonese didn’t get me the answer I wanted. So it still may be worth checking out places like Hing Lung Company and Yee’s Restaurant in SF’s Chinatown or Wing Lee Bakery on Clement Street in addition to the ones listed below.
In any case, I’ve compiled a list of places offering Chinese turkey in 2020 — and all require a pre-order. The need to support restaurants has only become increasingly urgent during the pandemic — especially for Chinese restaurants and businesses in Chinatowns. Chinese turkey takeout for this year’s small Thanksgiving gatherings is one way to continue supporting local businesses as well as perhaps alleviating some holiday cooking stress during this otherwise stressful year. Big thanks to the Facebook group Bay Area Eats (dine-in/take-out), which is like a local food brain trust with nearly 15,000 members and growing. The group answers inquiries lighting fast and keeps up with the latest dining regulations, pivots, pop-ups, and side hustles.
1. Cheung Hing (San Francisco Noriega Street location, Outer Sunset)
There are several Chinese deli joints in the Bay called Cheung Hing. Some are currently related; some used to be related. Make sure about your desired location when planning your order. The location on Noriega has been marked as “temporarily closed” on Yelp. A minivan crashed into the front window in October. However, it’s scheduled to reopen on November 23. Fingers crossed for the usual offerings as this Cheung Hing’s turkey usually comes with steamed Chinese buns and gravy. If not, the other barbecued and roasted meats are still worth the trip.
2339 Noriega Street between 30th and 31st avenues, San Francisco, (415) 665-3271, scheduled to reopen November 23, website
2. Cheung Hing (South San Francisco, Millbrae, and San Mateo)
The Cheung Hing locations in South San Francisco and Millbrae share a website and the same turkey offerings. San Mateo’s location has a sign advertising Thanksgiving turkey but said to “call Millbrae” for turkey ordering (this may just be for English speakers). Patrons must pre-order turkeys at least three days in advance. You can order a small turkey for $58, medium for $68, or large for $78. You can also give the restaurants your own turkey for them to roast — also at least three days ahead of when you want to pick it up — for a fee of $25. (What’s the poultry equivalent of a corkage fee? A fowl fee?) Places are open seven days a week.
Cheung Hing in South San Francisco, 333 Grand Avenue, (650) 872-1638, website; Cheung Hing in Millbrae, 245 El Camino Real, (650) 652-3938, website; Cheung Hing in San Mateo, 40 42nd Avenue, (650) 572-7989, website
3. Wing Hing Restaurant (San Francisco, Portola/Silver Terrace)
An old, casual neighborhood favorite with reasonable prices. Pre-order one size of turkey for just $45. Or bring your own for them to cook for a fowl fee of $17. Both options require three days’ advance notice.
2550 San Bruno Avenue between Burrows and Felton streets, San Francisco, (415) 468-5309, website
4. Mr. Fong BBQ & Noodles (Daly City)
Another old favorite that lies just outside of the city. Choose between pre-ordering a medium turkey for $62.25 or a large one for $65.50. Each turkey comes with house-made gravy. Place orders at least three to four days in advance.
950 King Drive, Suite 101, Daly City, (650) 878-8882, website
5. Win’s Restaurant (San Francisco, Outer Sunset)
While you’ll have to pre-order this turkey like at the other places, Win’s Restaurant lets customers order by the pound. So if you just want one pound — go for it at just $6.50 a pop. Available for pickup between Wednesday, November 25 through Friday, November 27.
3040 Taraval Street between 40th and 41st avenues, San Francisco, (415) 759-1818, website
